This is what the motor label shows.

 

This is what the motor label shows.

View attachment 257380

Exactly. But in that last attachment the claim is 25 Ma, much less and hard to believe.

 

I believe the motor label, not a web page advert, it is IMO a 13V 3Watt, 230mA motor.

In reality, it does not matter, the motor is faulty and needs to be replaced.

 

What will happen ,if i use fan motor with a slightly higher mA?My original motor is 230ma,If I put 320mA motor what will happen?

It may be fine, the rated 320 mA likely represents the max recommended current that the motor be allowed to draw and that current will depend on load.

Since the load is the same - the fan blades - it is likely the new motor won't draw its max, it may draw less than 230 mA too.

What I'm trying to say is that the new motor is likely able to handle greater load, do more work, that the older motor could not do without overheating.

The current drawn by the motor is likely closely tied to the mechanical load, if that's the same I'd expect the current to be comparable in each motor for the same load irrespective of max rated current draw.

 

But theTS tells us that their fan motor draws 230 mA, and from the picture it does look like the LG motor. So we really don't know.

I commented on that and suspect the link has a typo simply because the same link points out 13 VDC and 3.20 Watts. So 3.2 Watts / 13 VDC = .246 Amp or lets call it about 250 mA. A typical 80 mm PC 12 VDC fan draws about 160 mA with 12.0 VDC applied so yes, I figure the 25 mA is a typo just based on the rest of the link. A simple Google of the fan by part number turns up the same fan with 230 mA and the same replacement part with a wide range of prices. A variety of manufacturers and prices with current varying slightly. The part looks to be as common as it gets for OEM replacement parts.

Ron

 

This is what the motor label shows.

View attachment 257380

Label shows DC symbol before the 13vdc !

 

hi Max,
Sorry, I miss the point of your post.?
E

 

They seem to cover it twice!
Both before and after the 13V !!

 

They seem to cover it twice!
Both before and after the 13V !!

Making double sure we get it. There are times when once simply isn't enough so they want absolutely no doubt.

Ron

 

@MisterBill2; I don't recall the exact price of the control board but if I had to guess I'd say it was around $135 US. That's cheaper than a whole new machine. Plus, the machine wasn't that old to begin with. At best it was maybe 5 years old. And a control board was a whole lot easier to replace than pulling one machine out and putting a new one in. MUCH more work to do that. But after the third control board going bad within a few years it was time to scrap that whole machine. I now have a different name brand and it's been working just fine for the last six years with no sign of troubles.

The old control boards? Plenty of scrap devices. Three or four 24 volt relays on board. The rest is heavily conformal coated and very difficult to liberate. But if ever I'm in a spot - I just might have what I need. The water dispenser on my fridge quit. But microswitches from scrapped microwave ovens - I had the exact replacement. Some things are worth hanging on to. For at least a few years. If after 10 years you haven't used it - it's time for it to go. But then the next week after the trash has been picked up - THAT is when you need something from what was tossed. Oh well.

 

@MisterBill2; I don't recall the exact price of the control board but if I had to guess I'd say it was around $135 US. That's cheaper than a whole new machine. Plus, the machine wasn't that old to begin with. At best it was maybe 5 years old. And a control board was a whole lot easier to replace than pulling one machine out and putting a new one in. MUCH more work to do that. But after the third control board going bad within a few years it was time to scrap that whole machine. I now have a different name brand and it's been working just fine for the last six years with no sign of troubles.

The old control boards? Plenty of scrap devices. Three or four 24 volt relays on board. The rest is heavily conformal coated and very difficult to liberate. But if ever I'm in a spot - I just might have what I need. The water dispenser on my fridge quit. But microswitches from scrapped microwave ovens - I had the exact replacement. Some things are worth hanging on to. For at least a few years. If after 10 years you haven't used it - it's time for it to go. But then the next week after the trash has been picked up - THAT is when you need something from what was tossed. Oh well.

OK, and the good news is that board is a whole lot cheaper than a Maytag board. The total for both items for that dishwasher was about $500. It seems that Maytag is very proud of it's service parts. And actually, replacing the whole machine was not that much more effort than replacing the keypad.

 

OK, and the good news is that board is a whole lot cheaper than a Maytag board. The total for both items for that dishwasher was about $500. It seems that Maytag is very proud of it's service parts. And actually, replacing the whole machine was not that much more effort than replacing the keypad.

When all appliances and things like furnaces and washing machines as well as freezers and refrigerators started getting smart and gaining in popularity the same repair method always seemed to prevail. Replace the control board. Wife and I know a couple who put some serious money, like a few grand, into a front loading smart washing machine. Thank God they bought the warranty program (fancy version) as the thing had more down than up time. Albeit things are improving but the solution remains "replace the control board". Seriously!

Ron

 

Been a while since the TS responded. Maybe we've scared him away ? ? ?

 

The TS may well have been scared off by all of the andering off topic and the assertions that any fool can afford a meter at the corner shop. And still no mention as to how much effort is needed to disconnect and remove the fan motor.