If the refrigerator is indeed an LG brand unit, then it probably is a failed fan motor.
But one simple check that will reveal if it is instead a failed defrost system, which will result in ice blocking the path for cold air to the refrigerator, is to disconnect the power to the unit and let it defrost, empty, with the doors open, for 24 hours. If that solves the problem then you have a failed defrost system. although the fan motor may also be failed. Defrost system failures can be interesting indeed.

 

Lets make two assumptions:
First, the fan is defective. What then? Replace it would be the obvious course of action. You can't fix the fan, so a replacement would be in order
Second, the fan is NOT the problem. What then? More diagnostics is in order.

If the second assumption is the case then what tools are needed? Well, a cheap meter would be the next most likely approach. [EDIT] However, if you just can't get a meter right now then find an old car light bulb and put it across the two power wires. If there's 12 volts (or 13) the bulb will glow brightly. And the bulb can be something as small as a side marker lamp. DO NOT DO THIS! [END EDIT]
(See post #24)

More assumings:
There's power to the fan:
Then the fan is bad. If it's dry bushings then you can lubricate it (hopefully). If that solves the problem it may likely be a short term solution. Also, as already mentioned, it could be an ice blockage. In that case thawing is the first course of action. Second course would be to understand why it froze up. Once you know why it froze, then you know where to concentrate your repair efforts.
Suppose it's NOT an ice blockage. Now we have power and a clear pathway for the cold air to travel. We come back to the fan motor.

I don't know what kind of motor the fan is so I don't know that a meter would yield anything (at least) I would understand. You may find a resistance; but exactly what that would mean - I don't know. Traditionally, a 12 volt motor would be some coils and brushes. But this may be a brushless motor - which I don't know that to be the case. So I wouldn't know what to make of a meter reading.

A meter? Well, you may have very little use for it beyond this one repair. However, a meter can come in handy in many other instances. I regularly check the resting battery voltage in my cars. If the voltage drops down into the 11 volt range then my charging system needs a looking into, or the battery may be old and in need of replacement. It all depends on what I find. And we're not discussing automotive electrics, so I just throw that in there because a meter can be a useful tool in many other applications. I think a meter would be a good investment, though I'm not sure if it will aid in uncovering the issue with your fridge.

I'm also not one who would recommend firing the parts cannon at a problem. Alway fully diagnose the problem BEFORE you start throwing parts at it. This way you know exactly what's needed.

 

Lets make two assumptions:
First, the fan is defective. What then? Replace it would be the obvious course of action. You can't fix the fan, so a replacement would be in order
Second, the fan is NOT the problem. What then? More diagnostics is in order.

If the second assumption is the case then what tools are needed? Well, a cheap meter would be the next most likely approach. However, if you just can't get a meter right now then find an old car light bulb and put it across the two power wires. If there's 12 volts (or 13) the bulb will glow brightly. And the bulb can be something as small as a side marker lamp.

More assumings:
There's power to the fan:
Then the fan is bad. If it's dry bushings then you can lubricate it (hopefully). If that solves the problem it may likely be a short term solution. Also, as already mentioned, it could be an ice blockage. In that case thawing is the first course of action. Second course would be to understand why it froze up. Once you know why it froze, then you know where to concentrate your repair efforts.
Suppose it's NOT an ice blockage. Now we have power and a clear pathway for the cold air to travel. We come back to the fan motor.

I don't know what kind of motor the fan is so I don't know that a meter would yield anything (at least) I would understand. You may find a resistance; but exactly what that would mean - I don't know. Traditionally, a 12 volt motor would be some coils and brushes. But this may be a brushless motor - which I don't know that to be the case. So I wouldn't know what to make of a meter reading.

A meter? Well, you may have very little use for it beyond this one repair. However, a meter can come in handy in many other instances. I regularly check the resting battery voltage in my cars. If the voltage drops down into the 11 volt range then my charging system needs a looking into, or the battery may be old and in need of replacement. It all depends on what I find. And we're not discussing automotive electrics, so I just throw that in there because a meter can be a useful tool in many other applications. I think a meter would be a good investment, though I'm not sure if it will aid in uncovering the issue with your fridge.

I'm also not one who would recommend firing the parts cannon at a problem. Alway fully diagnose the problem BEFORE you start throwing parts at it. This way you know exactly what's needed.

One more thought is that if the fan can be disconnected and removed without a whole lot of effort, then there is the option of removing it and testing it on 12 volts from a car battery. Of course, at that point one needs access to such, not always possible for everybody, especially in some parts of the world.
Two years ago I diagnosed the defrost system fault for a missionary someplace in Thailand via emails. That failure was caused by an open-circuited defrost heater around a door, which kept the defrost timer from running. That circuit was rather complex, and it did require a meter in the hands of the missionary to discover which element had failed.
Is the circuit for the refrigerator posted on the back of the unit? That can help with the failure search if it is found that the fan is not the problem.

 

However, if you just can't get a meter right now then find an old car light bulb and put it across the two power wires. If there's 12 volts (or 13) the bulb will glow brightly. And the bulb can be something as small as a side marker lamp.

Perhaps I should revise this suggestion. If the fan draws 230mA, an automotive light bulb might draw more power than the fan controller can handle. So I think I'm going to edit that statement with a strike through because doing so might cause further issues. SO DON'T DO AS I SUGGESTED!

 

Another thought... Some commercial controllers have got a "FST" parameter (Fan Stop Temperature) it cuts the fan out when the evaporator is above zero C to stop the fan flicking water into the room. So if it's warm it might not come on anyway.

 

If the fan runs when connected with the correct polarity, red to positive and black wire to negative, to an external 12 volt source, such as across a car battery or other 12 volt battery, then the problem is with the supply, unless the fan was not connected correctly. If the fan does not respond when connected correctly then the fan has failed. If it does not spin freely when you try to turn it, then there is a bearing problem and lubrication is required.
The TS mentioned having another fan that is listed as using 350 Ma. That might be too much current for it to be a replacement, but OK to use as a check.
But that third wire may be required by the control system. So an exact replacement might be required.

 

Not intentionally, but I've been thinking about the lightbulb idea - and yes, I still stand by that it's a bad idea to use an automobile lamp - and should not be done. However, if you HAVE and can BUILD a test light using an LED and a 1,000 ohm resistor you can build a simple indicator that will tell you if the fridge is sending power to the fan motor.

Something like this will quickly indicate if there's power being sent to the fan.
This circuit will only draw 12mA, far less than the fan would draw.

 

The fan in my fridge was failing because a rubber bushing/spacer was degrading and getting into the front bearing.

 

That approach is exactly what the purpose of this forum us to avoid. Flinging money at every question is counter to everything for those not burdened with more wealth than they know what to do with.

While I can agree with that to a point the words of Clint Eastwood still ring true.

.

Here we have a thread starter who is lacking a basic tool like a multimeter and likely the skills to use one. So even if they invest $19.95 at a local home improvement store they come away with a tool and no knowledge as to how to use it. A man's got to know his limitations. In this case a replacement motor cost about $60 give or take. Anyway while DIY is nice and forums like this can help there is a point where it's best to just get a competent refrigeration guy and as I mentioned several post ago pay them their due.

Just My Take...
Ron

 

That approach is exactly what the purpose of this forum us to avoid. Flinging money at every question is counter to everything for those not burdened with more wealth than they know what to do with.

Are you saying my comment is not warranted? The guy doesn't even have a multimeter and he's playing with wires before understanding the system in question. I don't know about you but I've come across a few appliances and electromechanical devices in my day that were "serviced" by someone clearly operating on ignorance and assumption and we just about had a fire because of it one time because of my landlord who was technical expert in communication decided his infinite wisdom crossed over.

In fact the man fraudulently tried to sue me for damages by forcing an electrician to come in and MANY things failed code. It was a real eye opener.

 

My daughter has a dead LG fridge in her yard. I'm wondering if maybe her fan failed too. Later today - if I have the time - I just might pop over and check it out. Couldn't be that difficult to get to. And I HAVE a meter. In fact, I have three of them. If her fridge failed due to some other reason - her fan might be good, and I can pull it out and learn something from it.

 

While I can agree with that to a point the words of Clint Eastwood still ring true.

.

Here we have a thread starter who is lacking a basic tool like a multimeter and likely the skills to use one. So even if they invest $19.95 at a local home improvement store they come away with a tool and no knowledge as to how to use it. A man's got to know his limitations. In this case a replacement motor cost about $60 give or take. Anyway while DIY is nice and forums like this can help there is a point where it's best to just get a competent refrigeration guy and as I mentioned several post ago pay them their due.

Just My Take...
Ron

I was building circuits with 110 volt AC coil relays, and 120 volt light bulbs as indicators, by the time I was in third grade.

"Playing with wires"is a really offensive term, as I see it.

Not having a multimeter is a different story, given that we don't know the part of the world that the TS is located in. And there are a lot of places where that $19.95 meter at your local store costs a whole lot more, and the local store is 50 miles away. In addition, not everybody has lots of spending money available. Some folks need their funds to buy stuff like food.

In addition, using alternative methods to test systems, and sharing that, is what at least part of this forum is about.

 

Not intentionally, but I've been thinking about the lightbulb idea - and yes, I still stand by that it's a bad idea to use an automobile lamp - and should not be done. However, if you HAVE and can BUILD a test light using an LED and a 1,000 ohm resistor you can build a simple indicator that will tell you if the fridge is sending power to the fan motor.

Something like this will quickly indicate if there's power being sent to the fan.
View attachment 257293This circuit will only draw 12mA, far less than the fan would draw.

Does the TS have these items? I didn't see any mention of LED's, resistors or soldering irons. It's a good approach since it doesn't draw a ton of current, but if the TS doesn't own an iron (or a meter) what is the likelihood (s)he owns an iron or has spare stock laying around?

 

I was building circuits with 110 volt AC coil relays, and 120 volt light bulbs as indicators, by the time I was in third grade.

"Playing with wires"is a really offensive term, as I see it.

Not having a multimeter is a different story, given that we don't know the part of the world that the TS is located in. And there are a lot of places where that $19.95 meter at your local store costs a whole lot more, and the local store is 50 miles away. In addition, not everybody has lots of spending money available. Some folks need their funds to buy stuff like food.

In addition, using alternative methods to test systems, and sharing that, is what at least part of this forum is about.

Like I mentioned, a man's got to know his limitations. Saving a buck is fine when you don't have an extra buck but reading through the entire thread my best suggestion is take a 12 volt lamp of low current. Disconnect fan and place lamp across red and black. Try to manually rotate the shaft. If the lamp lights and fan won't run there is a larger problem. While the forum can offer help so some can solve a problem is fine but when it is readily obvious someone seeking help hasn't a clue I also will not suggest the deep end of the pool. The link I gave to the motor does explain basic operation, if the thread starter doesn't understand that then call someone who does. That's how I see it.

I was building circuits with 110 volt AC coil relays, and 120 volt light bulbs as indicators, by the time I was in third grade.

So was I and that helps the thread starter how? Not everyone has a handle on how stuff works which is why in the appliance world we have repair people. Hey, they may have mouths to feed also.

Ron

 

I was building circuits with 110 volt AC coil relays, and 120 volt light bulbs as indicators, by the time I was in third grade.

"Playing with wires"is a really offensive term, as I see it.

Not having a multimeter is a different story, given that we don't know the part of the world that the TS is located in. And there are a lot of places where that $19.95 meter at your local store costs a whole lot more, and the local store is 50 miles away. In addition, not everybody has lots of spending money available. Some folks need their funds to buy stuff like food.

In addition, using alternative methods to test systems, and sharing that, is what at least part of this forum is about.

How do you interpret playing with wires? I don't see how that's offensive. I meant nothing more than to say TS is likely "hoping for the best" by going in with a very limited knowledge base. Frankly I would expect experienced technicians and engineers to suggest buying a multimeter or at least borrowing one prior to making changes. Costs are moot when lives could potentially be at stake and it's my general opinion that a person not willing to properly educate and equip themselves has no business doing whatever their doing and for all we know, TS might have a history of cutting corners.

 

If the TS owns an LG Refrigerator then there should be a source near by where they can get a meter. After all, if you're out in the African bush - Home Depot isn't just around that bush over there, and they're not going to have a meter. Neither will they have a refrigerator, let alone one as advanced as an LG. They're not cheap. The cost of repairing one - WHEN YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING - is muted. But when you don't know - then the cost could turn into the thousands of dollars. OK, maybe I'm exaggerating just a bit - but fixing it right versus blowing something else out by accidentally touching the two wrong wires together can get expensive quick. Now you're not just replacing a fan you're also replacing a control board. Or possibly more.

I've regularly repaired a GE Dishwasher by replacing the control board. The problem was that the program would malfunction and you'd have to switch off the breaker and turn it back on. So when you KNOW what you're doing - then do. When you don't - STOP! You could cost yourself a whole lot more money. It's like stepping over five dollar bills to pick up dimes. Either get a meter or get a technician.

It's my bet the TS isn't coming back. We've probably scared him away by now.

Last time we heard from the TS was Yesterday at 3:20 PM

 

My take on it is help if you can, if you don't want to or think the TS is unworthy of help then just scroll on. It's his fridge and if he wants to have a go fixing it good on him... Or her
PS it's only 13v

 

If the TS owns an LG Refrigerator then there should be a source near by where they can get a meter. After all, if you're out in the African bush - Home Depot isn't just around that bush over there, and they're not going to have a meter. Neither will they have a refrigerator, let alone one as advanced as an LG. They're not cheap. The cost of repairing one - WHEN YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING - is muted. But when you don't know - then the cost could turn into the thousands of dollars. OK, maybe I'm exaggerating just a bit - but fixing it right versus blowing something else out by accidentally touching the two wrong wires together can get expensive quick. Now you're not just replacing a fan you're also replacing a control board. Or possibly more.

I've regularly repaired a GE Dishwasher by replacing the control board. The problem was that the program would malfunction and you'd have to switch off the breaker and turn it back on. So when you KNOW what you're doing - then do. When you don't - STOP! You could cost yourself a whole lot more money. It's like stepping over five dollar bills to pick up dimes. Either get a meter or get a technician.

It's my bet the TS isn't coming back. We've probably scared him away by now.

Last time we heard from the TS was Yesterday at 3:20 PM

Fixing the dishwasher by replacing the control board is very expensive. At least for one that I worked on, the quoted price for the control board plus the keypad was a bit more than the cost of the replacement dishwasher with a new one. But that unit had totally ceased to function, and the diagnostics verified that all the parts external to the board were OK.

For the refrigerator we have no such verification, one way or the other, except that the freezer functions. That points to the circulation fan either being failed or unpowered. Testing the fan externally with an alternate power supply will be a positive indication that either it works, and the fault is elsewhere, or the fan does not work and needs to be replaced. For that check no equipment except an alternate power source,such as an automotive 12 volt battery, is needed.
Of course it may be that the TS has no such a resource available. But in many parts of the world it would be available. Worst case the TS can test with a fresh 9 volt battery, which will run the fan for a short time.

 

Hi Mart,
I suspect the fan motor failure is a common problem.

Check this link.
E
https://www.4lg.co.uk/fridge-freeze...oduct.pl?pid=1225791&path=638302&refine=motor

 

Hi Mart,
I suspect the fan motor failure is a common problem.

Check this link.
E
https://www.4lg.co.uk/fridge-freeze...oduct.pl?pid=1225791&path=638302&refine=motor

But theTS tells us that their fan motor draws 230 mA, and from the picture it does look like the LG motor. So we really don't know.
The claim in the link is that it is a 25 milliamp motor, which I find quite hard to believe.
Certainly a fan failure will cause the reported symptom, so certainly the TS needs to do the test.
Even a stack of 1 1/2 volt batteries could be adequate if the TS has nobody with a car available who will allow a one minute test using the battery voltage to be done. But given that the TS is a student, no telling if they have any access to a car. In some parts of the world it may not be possible.