how to start process of PCB or other

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,845
I need the LED flush to the mounting surface. If I just solder connection tips to LED pins it might flap about and behave in an unstable physical way. In this case would I use the addition of a perf board and make sure it was || to board to make it flush? My only objection to using connectors directly on the pins of the LED.
It would be helpful if you provided a sketch of how you want to mount the LEDs.
 

Jon Chandler

Joined Jun 12, 2008
1,029
If you describe what you're trying to do, we may have some ideas. Without understanding, it's kind of a shot in the dark.

What do you mean when you say the LEDs should be flush with the surface of the board? Is some protrusion ok? Or absolutely flush with the surface?
 

Thread Starter

clangray

Joined Nov 4, 2018
261
Since you asked about pcbs, I believe you actually want to have a pcb fabricated.

Here's a quick and dirty version of your circuit laid out as a board using EasyEDA.

1. Draw the schematic. Unlike your simulation, you'll select the package of each component as you go. You can change the packages later, but it's easier to do it as you go.


View attachment 279343


2. Save the schematic and "convert to pcb". The dumps all the components on the screen with a suggested board outline. The thin blue lines are "air wires" showing the connections.


View attachment 279337


3. Move the components to where you want them on the board. Think about the arrangement of things like LEDs, switches, terminal blocks, etc., and how the connections will be routed.

View attachment 279338



4. At this point, you can see views of what the board will look like and a 3-d view showing components.

View attachment 279339



View attachment 279340



5. If you like the arrangement, you can start routing tracks. Red lines shown the top copper layer, blue the bottom. If you're having boards fabricated, there is usually no cost difference between one layer and two layer boards. This is quick and dirty, but it's a starting point.

View attachment 279341



6. You can view the traces on the board in 2-d or 3-d view.

View attachment 279342



7. When components are where you'd like them, work on moving the component disignators around on the silk screen layer, and add labels, instructions or anything else you want to put on the board.
Here is a quickly sketched diagram that elucidates better my ideas for connecting the LEDs 90 degrees to a board. This why I cant just connect the wire to LED's and how a flat "board" per LED would be beneficial would arrest it on three axes. Note: the viewing angle is actually 60 degrees here, not 120. I apologize in advance for the schematic quality. My main concern if left lower potion that shows the LED side view.ideas_forum2.jpg
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,845
How far apart are the individual LED boards? Are they all going to be in the same plane?

Unless you oversize the holes for the leads. LEDs don't sit flush with boards they're installed on.

This from a Vishay 5mm LED:
1667163546392.png
The bottom of the package may not be flat.
 

Jon Chandler

Joined Jun 12, 2008
1,029
Again, it's not clear exactly what you're trying to do. Yes, I get that you want the LEDs perpendicular to some surface, but what's the surface? If it's a panel, the pictures below show a couple types of LED holders available for 3mm or 5mm LEDs that won't impact the view.

As far as circuit boards go, allow me to make a suggestion. Rather than connecting the LEDs in series, connect them in parallel, each with its own current-limiting resistor. This simplifies the wiring and also prevents the failure of one LED from extinguishing the rest of the string. "Home run" the wiring from each of the small boards back to the power supply, and you're all set.

A surface-mount right-angle 0.1" pitch 2-pin header and a surface mount current-limiting resistor on the board will allow the front of the board to sit flush (except for the LED of course). The picture shows the type where the desired number of pins can be snapped off.

Not to argue with dl324, but most pcb footprints for 3mm and 5mm footprints allow for the thick part of the LED leads (to pass through the pad) to sit flush.
 

Attachments

Here's a hacksaw layout. A blade can be used without the frame to cut the dead-end grooves. Cheaper than buying prototype board, and looks nicer viewed from above. And easier to swap components than desoldering wire links. Does require the ability to drill tiny holes in PCB stock (mini drill press and carbide bits are preferable.):
View attachment 279416
Nice! The right way to go Old School. You trade wiring and solder smoke for drilling and fiberglass dust. The redline cuts need to go clear across, so you will need to reconnect the end sections +5v and Ground.
I used to dumpster dive for 0.090" thick clad board and use the bandsaw at work. Now, however, •All copper is recovered •no bandsaws or you're not allowed to use them.
 

eetech00

Joined Jun 8, 2013
3,858
Here is a quickly sketched diagram that elucidates better my ideas for connecting the LEDs 90 degrees to a board. This why I cant just connect the wire to LED's and how a flat "board" per LED would be beneficial would arrest it on three axes. Note: the viewing angle is actually 60 degrees here, not 120. I apologize in advance for the schematic quality. My main concern if left lower potion that shows the LED side view.View attachment 279593
It looks like you want each individual LED mounted as is shown in example post #7.
Is that what you are trying to show?
 

Thread Starter

clangray

Joined Nov 4, 2018
261
If it's a panel, the pictures below show a couple types of LED holders available for 3mm or 5mm LEDs that won't impact the view.
Other viewing angle obstructions are the Dupont connectors themselves: standing straight up to connect the LED boards -- I need to have access to the whole field without the connectors themselves blocking the LED. What if I wanted to avoid the Dupont connectors entirely? What about using 24AWG stranded wire with no Dupont connectors on a PCB layout? How would I attach the wire to each LED board?
I just want to do this wiring with most simple method while using PCB.
 
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Thread Starter

clangray

Joined Nov 4, 2018
261
As far as circuit boards go, allow me to make a suggestion. Rather than connecting the LEDs in series, connect them in parallel, each with its own current-limiting resistor. This simplifies the wiring and also prevents the failure of one LED from extinguishing the rest of the string. "Home run" the wiring from each of the small boards back to the power supply, and you're all set.
This makes a lot of sense, I am going to do this.
 

panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
2,715
there are plenty o PCB design software products. for someone working in the field for living, professional products are a way to go. they are pricey and have lots of features. they all have trial and demo versions too that are restricted in some way. fortunately there are other options too, and some are open source such as KiCad. this means capable product for $0.0.
and if you are starting to design PCBs, there will be a learning curve and some mistakes along the way. So maybe consider low cost PCBs from a place like JLC.
 

tyro01

Joined May 20, 2021
87
When I was younger I really tried many free PCB CADs. The lowest learning cost was DipTrace. The software was lightweight, with minimal functionality required. Unfortunately, the schematics look like they were drawn with an ink pen.

KiCAD could not fine-tune the aperture area of the metal mask until recently. The latest version has much improved functionality. This is a good CAD for hobbyists and students.

I had tried using Eagle in the past and found the drawings were output in red and gray, making them very difficult to read. Both red and gray only printed thinly when copied in black and white, and I found it unprofessional.

The official Arduino schematics are still available in red and gray printed data. Because Eagle is often used to design open source hardware, the situation has become such that important but hard-to-read schematics are being uploaded to the Internet.

I am currently using CircuitStudio, which uses a slightly earlier version of Altium Designer's UI. There are some limitations, such as not being able to do teardrop routing and not being able to create chamfered boards, but the latter can be unlocked using a backdoor technique.

The price is 495USD, but my assessment is that Altium has set the price too low. There have been some complaints about the lack of a next version since version 1.5, but I rate it as stable and free of critical bugs enough that a next version release is not necessary.
 

Thread Starter

clangray

Joined Nov 4, 2018
261
do you want 1 led on 1 board or an array of leds on 1 board?
(By “board” I mean the finished product)
yes, 1 per board. then boards connect to main board. I think I can see my way through committing the design to PCB once I have the connectors down.
I think post #7 nailed it for me as many others helped.
 
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Thread Starter

clangray

Joined Nov 4, 2018
261
there are plenty o PCB design software products. for someone working in the field for living, professional products are a way to go. they are pricey and have lots of features. they all have trial and demo versions too that are restricted in some way. fortunately there are other options too, and some are open source such as KiCad. this means capable product for $0.0.
and if you are starting to design PCBs, there will be a learning curve and some mistakes along the way. So maybe consider low cost PCBs from a place like JLC.
That's why using free software with simple schematics will be ideal for "jumping in" like post #7.
 

eetech00

Joined Jun 8, 2013
3,858
yes, 1 per board. then boards connect to main board. I think I can see my way through committing the design to PCB once I have the connectors down.
I think post #7 nailed it for me as many others helped.
ok…so when connected together all boards would lay flat….correct?

if so, search for “board to board edge connectors”.
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,156
If you’re trying to mount several LEDs on locations that are separated by some distance (you haven’t specified where they are mounted) and would like to simplify the wiring, instead of wiring each all the way back to the batteries with individual airs of wires, consider this. On each board, have four connections. Two for power in and two for power out. Carry power in to power out and wire the LED between the power connections. This allows you to daisy-chain individual LED mountings.
 
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