Ok, with rectangular boards, you can panelize to get more boards from your order. Elecrow* won't charge for v-scoring for one design on the panel, so you can get a bunch of boards for the same $5 for 10 panels. (for a total size of 100mm x 100mm or less.)

If you can't consolidate your different boards into one design, you have to order them separately.

* JLC charges extra for v-scoring, by the total number of boards on the panel.

 

Ok, with rectangular boards, you can panelize to get more boards from your order. Elecrow* won't charge for v-scoring for one design on the panel, so you can get a bunch of boards for the same $5 for 10 panels. (for a total size of 100mm x 100mm or less.)

If you can't consolidate your different boards into one design, you have to order them separately.

* JLC charges extra for v-scoring, by the total number of boards on the panel.

Hi, I ran out of questions. Thank you very much for the help. The boards are ready. I do have a question before I upoad.
Is there a way to create a fastener to join my working PCB to a dummy PCB just to add a level of protection to the board when in use? I also like the added weight to the sensor. My other alternatives are using a 3D printer to create a form factor that's custom or both. It doesnt have to be exactly like below just to convey the idea. Please let m eknow if I need to open a new question.

 

3mm or 4-40 standoffs or spacers* can be used to stack boards like that. I would set them in from the corner. A 3.2mm hole works well for either screw size.

*Standoffs typically have a male thread on one end and a female threads on the other. Spacers have a female thread on each end or no threads at all. They are available in brass or nylon.

I have ordered circuit boards to use as a base for a stack like that. No traces, just the same size, with matching holes. Or you could use a blank board as a cover, with a hole to poke the LED through.

A couple more suggestions later.... duty calls.

 

Here's an example of a board stack, the center active board with top and bottom cover boards. It's held together with 3mm standoffs (actually a standoff and a spacer, so both sides are held with screws).

 

As to weights, something I have used in the past to weight down an enclosure to give it some heft so it won't slip around when buttons are pressed is Simpson Strongtie nailing plates. A stack of maybe 10 of these enclosed in a piece of large heatshrink makes a nice weight. There's an alternate brand to Strongtie. The dimensions of the plates are the same, but the 3 – 2 – 3 arrangement of the holes is opposite! Very frustrating if you lay out and laser-cut a piece of acrylic to fit one brand and purchase the other.

 

So how do I fasten the 2 boards together utilizing the brass fittings below? Where do I find fittings like below but that have a way to screw a top board and a bottom board? What am I missing here, I just don't see it.

What hole size would I make on EasyEDA circuit board and dummy board(I see a hole function).

 

Sigh. The spacers you want to use have female threads. Use a screw from each side to secure the boards to the spacer. This shouldn't be difficult to understand. [You can see the screws in your picture and in my picture of the card stack.]

3mm or 4-40 standoffs or spacers* can be used to stack boards like that. I would set them in from the corner. A 3.2mm hole works well for either screw size.

 

Sigh. The spacers you want to use have female threads. Use a screw from each side to secure the boards to the spacer. This shouldn't be difficult to understand. [You can see the screws in your picture and in my picture of the card stack.]

I'm sorry for the confusion but never having handled them I didn't know whether each of the sides was the same. I probably overthought it.

You gave me the board hole-size I would use in EasyEDA = 3.20mm hole size to cover both 3mm and 4-40.
I've got that using an assortment approach e.g.



My question is what size standoff do I use if I want to go less then the smallest in the assortment? Even the smallest takes up too much design aesthetic on the surface.

If you would like me to repost this latest question within a question plz let me know asap. Thx. Black is pretty neat.

 

3mm is commonly the smallest size used, but the assortment also includes 2.5mm. Change the hole size if you use the 2.5mm.

As far as esthetics go, button head screws are very small low profile. Socket-head cap screws have a smaller diameter head, but it will protrude more.

 

3mm is commonly the smallest size used, but the assortment also includes 2.5mm. Change the hole size if you use the 2.5mm.

As far as esthetics go, button head screws are very small low profile. Socket-head cap screws have a smaller diameter head, but it will protrude more.

How do I determine what that hole size will be? Your example was 3.2mm for 3.0mm screw diameter.

 

That is the size I go with for small medium sized boards for mounting/stand-off etc.
3.2mm hole for clearance using 3mm hardware.

 

How do I determine what that hole size will be? Your example was 3.2mm for 3.0mm screw diameter.

I suggest you Google (I think Google can be used as a verb now) for a "metric thread table" which should give you clearance hole size for either a loose or tight (maybe precision) fit. Or buy a cheap digital caliper for a few bucks and measure the diameter of a 2.5mm screw and make the hole slightly larger than that.

 

I don't mean to be harsh, but this doesn't take much searching to find. You might learn something along the way. I don't know what size clearance home a 2.5mm screw needs, but it only takes a few seconds to find out.