For cases such as this, I always use wooden sticks and cut them to the exact length that will fit in the box's top and bottom. Then I measure the sticks. The real challenge is the box's radius at the edges and corners. Only way I can think of solving that would be to cut cardboard circles and see which one fits best.

When was it mentioned the box was round? I thought it was square or rectangle.

kv

 

When was it mentioned the box was round? I thought it was square or rectangle.

kv

I meant the radius at the edges and corners ... only way to measure those would be using round templates.

 

For cases such as this, I always use wooden sticks and cut them to the exact length that will fit in the box's top and bottom. Then I measure the sticks. The real challenge is the box's radius at the edges and corners. Only way I can think of solving that would be to cut cardboard circles and see which one fits best.

Or cut two small sticks, with a depth equal to the fillet. Then push one against the inside fillet edge and slide the second on top of the first until it touches the top of the fillet. Now you have two critical measurements and can calculate the radius of the fillet

 

Or just get a different box.

 

Or just get a different box.

Preferably one with orthogonal sides ...

 

I learned this method for inside measurements when making kitchen cabinets.

https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/measuring-sticks/

Have fun!

Bob

 

But the cost of a cheap digital caliper is so low these days.... And it can be used for more than just this one job.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=digital+caliper&_sacat=0

 

But the cost of a cheap digital caliper is so low these days.... And it can be used for more than just this one job.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=digital+caliper&_sacat=0

I have this already but I see no way to use it directly for this problem. It is longer than the inside width of the box.

 

@BobTPH Wish I'd have known this a few weeks ago. Just finished building two cabinets for the kitchen. Actually three. One is a fixed-to-the-wall cabinet with a countertop that extends across a 4 foot opening. In that opening is a cabinet on rollers that pulls out. Then there's the cupboards hangin on the wall. In times past I've used story boards (a single board with all the dimensions of everything I was going to build) marked out on it so I could do a quick reference to the part under construction. Also used story pages (a single page with all elements marked out) when drafting a plan that when drawn out would take several pages (as in designing a house [school project]). In each case all the dimensions were on a single page.

As for this box, given that each corner is slightly rounded, might make accomplishing your goal a little more difficult. But I don't see why good-old math wouldn't solve the problem. If you know the dimensions of the bottom of the box, subtracting that from the top of the box and divide by two (for each linear dimension) you should be able to come up with the angle. Then a little good-old trig. or even Pythagorean should give you the dimensions of the slope. Since we don't know the bottom dimensions we can't do the math. Do you HAVE the box? Or is this something you want to buy?

I like the idea of using a sheet of cardboard, and trim the angled edge till it matches. Then using BobTHP's stick method, make a second template to match the other side, then simply tape them together where they overlap. Remove the template and you have your top, bottom, height and angle all ready to measure with any standard measuring device.

 

I have this already but I see no way to use it directly for this problem. It is longer than the inside width of the box.

Is it deeper than the inside measurement jaws?

Cut a piece of stock(cardboard, thin wood what ever you have) with a square to the sides shape. Put it in the bottom of the box, and slide until it hits the start of the radius in the box bottom. Measure from that edge of the squared stock to the inside edge of the box. Double that number and subtract it from the overall inside dimension of the box.

 

I finally went back to Post#3 now I see the dilemma. Thats a good size box.

kv

 

I finally went back to Post#3 now I see the dilemma. Thats a good size box.

kv

Holy crap, you’re right, I thought we were talking about a little project box.

I’m still liking the idea of making a mold of the inside. If not with ice, something that can harden. Maybe paper mache even.

What sort of material needs to fit snugly inside?

 

I’m still liking the idea of making a mold of the inside. If not with ice, something that can harden. Maybe paper mache even

Not a bad idea.

• I’d cut two wood strips, to almost go from edge to edge and whose thickness extend above the material thickness.
• Tape them down 1/2” apart and square to the edges.
• Spray with a little cooking spray to help the plaster release
• Mix up a batch of plaster
• Pour between the sticks. A little will ooze out of the ends. That’s ok
• Let the plaster set hard. While setting and the plaster is firm but not dried, , you can trim most of the plaster which oozed from the ends.
• After it sets hard, cut away the wood strips and carefully lift the plaster strip free
• Now you have a mold of the fillets and the length of the box side-to-side.

You can get 1/4”x1/4”x24” basswood strips as well as casting plaster at HobbyLobby, Michael’s or similar craft store. I also recommend cutting a piece of wire to strengthen the plaster. Pour half of the plaster, insert the wire and pour the remainder of the plaster. This will reinforce the plastrt.

 

@djsfantasi You want to make 4.5 liters of plaster?

 

@djsfantasi You want to make 4.5 liters of plaster?

Only the bottom inch would be needed.

 

@djsfantasi You want to make 4.5 liters of plaster?

I have... but @wayneh has the idea.

 

Only the bottom inch would be needed.

You could actually line it, with news print. Dip it in plaster, layer it as you say let it dry pop it out.

kv

 

±1mm would good enough.

I doubt you'll be able to achieve that level of precision. The container may have warps and distortions, and the coefficient of thermal expansion is likely different than whatever is going in the box. I'd look to get close with whatever it is that needs to fit, and then have a "bumper" of some kind to fill the inevitable gap.

 

What sort of material needs to fit snugly inside?

A framework of nylon and ABS to support electrodes for electroplating and the object to be plated. I want to be able to use as much of the box volume as possible and the electrodes need to maintain a constant position so the plating will be even thickness.

 

A framework of nylon and ABS to support electrodes for electroplating and the object to be plated. I want to be able to use as much of the box volume as possible and the electrodes need to maintain a constant position so the plating will be even thickness.

Will a Fish Tank work?

kv