My 10yo + Phisang Gopher Charger Mod Num#E201162 207LJ has status LEDS which don't work. The charger is suspect atm. The RCD was tripped, the i/p fuse was blown, [perhaps recent lightning strike?] I'm unsure it's working propperly. O/C OP voltages indicate it's dead, but the fan still works. OP fuse is ok. No status LEDs on charger working, tho' it was charging until a few days ago, when storms came in. The charge status bar on gopher does not go to max when charging. It remains on 2 bars. I can't see how to strip it to carry out tests/repairs. The only visible screws are around the fan, and they're rusty. A new one is super expensive locally, and I was hoping I could repair it. Have digital electronics knowledge. ZEnd caps on charger may be clip-on, but don't want to force it without proof.
how to fix 24V charger & LED indicators?
- Thread starter Poor old sod
- Start date
I popped the end covers, and unscrewed the 4 screws exposed and removed the lid.
Tested continuity for input cover wiring and switch--seems ok. unplugged input & output covers and wires from main board, set aside.Fuses are all slo blow, 3.15A and 10A.
Tested board for continuity between 240V input header and 240V/110V selector--both sides, all patterns--All OC. OC between input pins, both directions. Suspect bridge diode block faulty, but can't get at main board to remove and test it..
The power transistor heatsink mounting screw heads are covered by the labels on the sides of the charger, and I don't want to destroy them peeling them off. I will try to cut around the screw heads so that they can be pushed out from the inside with minimal damage.
There is some corrosion at the far end of the board, around the tall blue cap and the power resistor behind it. Unsure if cap has leaked or just water ingress. Could be the adjacent smaller black electrolytic cap has leaked?
Tested continuity for input cover wiring and switch--seems ok. unplugged input & output covers and wires from main board, set aside.Fuses are all slo blow, 3.15A and 10A.
Tested board for continuity between 240V input header and 240V/110V selector--both sides, all patterns--All OC. OC between input pins, both directions. Suspect bridge diode block faulty, but can't get at main board to remove and test it..
The power transistor heatsink mounting screw heads are covered by the labels on the sides of the charger, and I don't want to destroy them peeling them off. I will try to cut around the screw heads so that they can be pushed out from the inside with minimal damage.
There is some corrosion at the far end of the board, around the tall blue cap and the power resistor behind it. Unsure if cap has leaked or just water ingress. Could be the adjacent smaller black electrolytic cap has leaked?
AlbertHall
- Joined Jun 4, 2014
- 12,346
Photos please.
Ignore pls, I bought a new charger, auto select 12V/24V 10A 4 stage smart charger for abt $35 on ebay. Most reasonable price avail, shipped from NSW, here later this week. Will do perfect for my gopher and 12V charging. Will fit inline ciggy socket and have 2 leads-one for gopher with JLR plug and one for 12V charging with alligator clips.
