I have started using these mini/micro module PCBs that are available everywhere.

Most come with holes predrilled in them for mounting them onto something?

But how do you mount these micro module PCBs? Do you try to find somewhere to drill a hole, like between C4 and D1 in the ground plane?
Or do you use a blob of silicone sealant on the back and stick them to say strip board?
Or do you wire tie them to the board?


They are only 28mm x 11mm x 12mm/1.09" x 0.43" x 0.47", so any screws have got to be small.

Any advice or suggestions would be eagerly sought.

 

Hi gray,
I use a hot glue melt gun 'blob' on two edges.
The advantage is that the hot melt can easily be reheated to release the PCB
E

Do you try to find somewhere to drill a hole,

Not a good idea, the PCB maybe multilayer.

 

Also for some of these.. the more common.. you can find models for holders for 3D printers for free online.

 

these sorts of modules have no holes , and are not designed to be mounted by drilling holes in them,
their intended us is to string together a desk top demonstration, using things like sticky pads, glue , tie wraps or just floating.,
dont drill , that board might be only two layers but otheres might not be.

 

The 3D models for holders that I mention are slotted on the sides to slide in the module and have holes on the outside to put screws through:

 

The 3D models for holders that I mention are slotted on the sides to slide in the module and have holes on the outside to put screws through:

View attachment 355152

Do you have link as to where they can be purchased please as don't have 3d printer.

 

I would 3D print holders or rails.
You can choose to screw or glue the rails on to whatever base.

3D printers are now very affordable. Every electronics hobbyist should consider getting one.

 

Do you have link as to where they can be purchased please as don't have 3d printer.

I don't know if they are sold as printed pieces.. if you have the model someone with a printer can make one piece for you for cheap price.

 

I don't know if they are sold as printed pieces.. if you have the model someone with a printer can make one piece for you for cheap price.

unfortunate, like many in the world, the 3d printer just to make fixing brackets is just not reality,
pity I agree, and I've been over the decades in two crowd sourced printers, that I lost the deposit on.

one day , may be , but at moment dont have space / place to extract fumes ,

May be you should start business selling these ?

 

unfortunate, like many in the world, the 3d printer just to make fixing brackets is just not reality,

A 3D printer can be had for less than the price of an oscilloscope.
Can you see yourself doing electronics without an oscilloscope?
You would be amazed at how handy it is having a 3D printer. I print my own bespoke project cases. I have repaired many items around the home and garden with the 3D printer, blinds, curtains, switches, hooks, hangers, knobs, handles, rain barrel faucets, bicycle chain guard. The largest item I printed was a retaining ring for the screen cover of a rain barrel.

 

A 3D printer can be had for less than the price of an oscilloscope.
Can you see yourself doing electronics without an oscilloscope?
You would be amazed at how handy it is having a 3D printer. I print my own bespoke project cases. I have repaired many items around the home and garden with the 3D printer, blinds, curtains, switches, hooks, hangers, knobs, handles, rain barrel faucets, bicycle chain guard. The largest item I printed was a retaining ring for the screen cover of a rain barrel.

like the old self duplicating 3d printer idea.

 

Mr Chips;
What CAD software do you employ to design the part that you are going to print?

 

If I wanted to hold down a little board like that I would place a screw (with or without washer -either metal of plastic - next to two opposing edges of the board with the screw head or better, the washer overlapping the edge of the PCB.

RTV is not a good idea but I might be tempted to use a little acid-free RTV to glue it in place in lieu of screws. https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=acid-free+RTV+for+electronics Does not make swapping out the board any easier through.

 

Hi guys,
Please keep to the TS's stated Topic.

Mod.

 

For that particular board I "might" consider removing the header and replacing it with a stackable type then use it to solder to a proto board with some insulation in between, then just use some wire to fix the other end.

It really depends on the board and how secure it must be, but to be honest I tend to build small circuits like that instead of using prebuilt modules.

 

Mr Chips;
What CAD software do you employ to design the part that you are going to print?

There is a thread for that:
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/looking-for-a-decent-3d-printer.150533/

You need two programs, the CAD software and the model slicer.
I use Autodesk Inventor and UltiMaker Cura.

 

A suggestion to the thread starter. there are places that do 3D printing on demand... a quick search turned up quite a few places.

 

A suggestion to the thread starter. there are places that do 3D printing on demand... a quick search turned up quite a few places.

I assume the OP would have to learn the 3D software and generate the model, unless someone cna provide the model

 

I assume the OP would have to learn the 3D software and generate the model, unless someone cna provide the model

I can create the model and supply the CAD .stl file.
I will be in the UK in October. I can even bring the finished parts with me if I could get the dimensions required.
I can even print card guides to any specifications.

 

That jogged my memory, of about 45 years ago, when we used to hand-solder, slide in logic boards, that slide into bins. The edge connector pins in the bins were all hand wire wrapped. The speed the woman used to work at was tremendous, especially on piecework.

Anyhow, these PCB board guides are available at the likes of Aliexpress at a very small price.

I think some of the mini/micro modules might well slide in, but some have components right up to the edge. So would need to check every time.