I messed up my previous post. Terminal 3, which is grounded isn't getting 12v too like said in my last post. The 12v from Briggs starter goes to terminal 4 and not 3. 3 has a jumper to 12 to give 3 its ground.

I really screwed that post up. I apologize. Maybe a mod should delete it.

When I jump 7 to 10 it blows the in line fuse in the wire going from terminal 4 to the Briggs starter.

I also forgot to post the picture on the resistor or whatever it is that connects 12 to 11. 11 is connected to 10 with a copper tab. 12-15 are connected via copper tab and 15 has wire to battery ground. It seems with the copper tabs and resistor? 10 would also be a ground.

There's a computer guy in our small town. Maybe I'll give him a call to see if he will take a look. I feel like my last post really messed the troubleshooting steps up by adding confusion.

Thanks for all of the help Dave.

 

Picture of resistor or ? from 12 to 11. It's under the brown and blue wires.

 

Picture of resistor or ? from 12 to 11. It's under the brown and blue wires.View attachment 131113

That is a Diode marked V1 across Y1 solenoid, it's for back emf suppression, measure the resistance across the terminals 11,12, ...

The drawing and the terminals are marked with different numbers, that's why you blew the fuse, 10 on the drawing is at 12V but the terminal block has it at ground!!


that's where you should be getting 12V to when you link terminals 7 to 12,

 

I'm not understanding what you're saying. I get that the diagram numbers don't match with the terminal block so that's concerning! I'm already confused enough! I don't understand the 12v when jumping 7 to 12. 12 is definitely ground because of the copper tab connecting 12-15. When the fuse blew we jumped 7 to 10.

I measured the resistance of the diode. I got .5 from either side when switching probes. I watched a video on testing it and it sounds like the diode is bad? Could that be causing the issue with whatever is going on?

Thanks for deciphering my confusing posts from before. I appreciate the time and knowledge you have spent helping me!

 

I'm trying to stay out of this, but following it. Did the people you bought it from try to fix it? Sometimes when others try to fix something they don't connect wires correctly, that may be the problem with this, since it seems like your saying the wiring doesn't match the schematic.

 

I'm not understanding what you're saying. I get that the diagram numbers don't match with the terminal block so that's concerning! I'm already confused enough! I don't understand the 12v when jumping 7 to 12. 12 is definitely ground because of the copper tab connecting 12-15. When the fuse blew we jumped 7 to 10.

I measured the resistance of the diode. I got .5 from either side when switching probes. I watched a video on testing it and it sounds like the diode is bad? Could that be causing the issue with whatever is going on?

Thanks for deciphering my confusing posts from before. I appreciate the time and knowledge you have spent helping me!

My mistake, link 7 to 11 that's the solenoid supply. The resistance check will show the same both ways across terminals 11,12 the diode needs to be removed to test it.

 

I don't know the history or what was done to it. My father-in-law got it from a Mobil unloading facility on Lake Barkley in KY. I think they unload asphalt from barges there. It had been sitting for years and the boss just wanted it gone. A friend of my fil sold it to him for $100. Engine needed work so he hauled it up to IL when visiting gave it to me. I hear what you're saying about it being worked on and wires being moved. It didn't seem like it had ever been taken apart but who knows. Maybe someone tried to fix it by swapping wires to bypass solenoids and that's why it sat in the corner for so long without being used. Word was it worked when last used years ago. They might've just ran it using cold water and didn't even try hot water.

If wires did get swapped I don't see how I could get it going without having someone look at it. Seems like that would be impossible to troubleshoot over the net. You guys are good though!

 

Dave.... I did remove the diode when I tested it and got the .5 no matter which way I probed it.

I just tested the diode while installed back in the terminals and got .8. Not sure if it matters but the .3 difference between having it in or out might be my cheap multi meter.

 

Test diodes on" Diode test ", it should only work one way!!!

 

I tested again using the "diode test mode" and I'm pretty much getting the same reading no matter which probe I have on either end. One way I got .004. I swapped probes to go the other way and got .006. On the other multimeter I was getting .003 both ways.

 

It looks like the diode is labeled 4007. I actually have some of those arriving tomorrow that I purchased to replace the diode on the kill wire coming off the Briggs dual coils. The engine won't shut off with the key so checked the diodes there the other day and they tested bad. I just hope I'm testing them right or my multimeter is right. I watched quite few videos on testing them and read a bunch of articles. Seems pretty cut and dry with the diode test mode on multimeter.

Anyways, I'll try a new diode tomorrow evening after they get here. I'll test a new one too so I can compare my test results with my "faulty" diodes.

 

The diode is definitely faulty. I checked a new one and get .583 one way and 1. or infinity the other way. As far as which way to install it, according to wiring diagram, it looks like the cathode goes to terminal 11 and anode to 12?

I also just finished rigging up a fuel pressure tester so hopefully that will tell me something too.

 

Yes Cathode (silver stripe) to terminal 11.

 

Check this out Dave. I didn't get much time to mess with it. Just a few minutes. I installed the new diode and started it. I didn't see a spark in the burner window. I jumped terminal 7 to 10. Checked 10 with meter and was getting 12v while jumped so fuse wasn't blowing. One of the light bulbs was flashing too. I think it was the low chemical lamp. I also heard a click whenever I touched the jumper to the terminal 10. I believe the click was coming from the fuel solenoid. I could have sworn I smelled diesel in the air being blown out of the burner too. None of that was happening before so that's exciting! My fuel pressure read 0 but I may have had it screwed into a bleed port so maybe that won't give a reading. I'll have to try a different port tomorrow.

It's kind of a loud machine. It was getting late so didn't want to make the neighbors mad so I shut it down. I'll let you know more when I get time to mess with it tomorrow.

I think things are looking up. You've made some great progress for me! Could that bad diode have caused issues to where it blew that fuse when jumping 7 to 10? If not I assume there might be gremlins causing some problems?

Thanks!

 

I was able to get the fuel pressure tester to work. The fuel pump is only putting out about 15-20 psi. It should be getting 100-140.

New fuel pump should be here in about 7-10 days so I'll update with any progress.