I have an AQUABOT control board that is used to power a pool robot. The robot became bogged down while cleaning debris and overloaded the control board but the fuse did not blow. Instead, the Viper12 IC (red circle) blew along with a Zener diode on the bottom of the board. I replaced both but I am not getting the 29v output (green arrows) for the robot. I tried replacing the Zener (unidentifiable from damage) with aTL431, that didn't work so now I have a Y11 Zener and still 0v. I'm not sure what I missed. All diodes/resistors tested good as did the double diode. No schematic seems to be available.

I'm try to determine why I am not getting the 29v & hoping someone can offer me some insight as to what I should replace, check, test, ect. This board also powers a front panel that has a timer and a few other functions, that part does turn on. The power switch is connected to the board with 4 pin ribbon connector labeled 'key', '5v', 'grnd', and led. The front panel is also connected by a very short ribbon connector.

 

So, you did some component replacement But did not receive any fruitful results. Still, the PCB is faulty. I suggest you run a short circuit test. You can see the modern PCB testing strategies here: https://www.pcbway.com/blog/2/Modern_PCB_testing_strategies.html
Also, Trace the circuit path from the Viper12 IC to the 29V output point. try to see if there is a broken trace somewhere in the PCB.

 

I have an AQUABOT control board that is used to power a pool robot. The robot became bogged down while cleaning debris and overloaded the control board but the fuse did not blow. Instead, the Viper12 IC (red circle) blew along with a Zener diode on the bottom of the board. I replaced both but I am not getting the 29v output (green arrows) for the robot. I tried replacing the Zener (unidentifiable from damage) with aTL431, that didn't work so now I have a Y11 Zener and still 0v. I'm not sure what I missed. All diodes/resistors tested good as did the double diode. No schematic seems to be available.

I'm try to determine why I am not getting the 29v & hoping someone can offer me some insight as to what I should replace, check, test, ect. This board also powers a front panel that has a timer and a few other functions, that part does turn on. The power switch is connected to the board with 4 pin ribbon connector labeled 'key', '5v', 'grnd', and led. The front panel is also connected by a very short ribbon connector.

Hello
I don't think I can help you, but since I myself have exactly the same power control and googled, I found your post. Which is probably out for you as the post is 4 years old. But I have had another incident. I have gotten water into it even though it is supposed to be rated IP65. I've always kept it dry anyway but during a storm the hatch blew open where I kept it and it got wet. But it SHOULD not be affected by rain with IP65. Now that I have dried out, washed the entire PCB with Isopropanol and tops from discoloration and other things, I find a diode that has gone to small pieces (D3) right next to the IC that you circled in your pictures. So I think we have similar faults, however I don't see any external damage to the IC or Z diodes on the underside. So I am hoping for a replacement of the diode but I have no idea of its value. Maybe you know? I would be very grateful if you would have an answer to it. With kind regards //Tobbe from Sweden

 

I no longer have that board, it was returned back to the customer as a no-fix. After 2 days of diagnostics, it ended up that the micro processor responsible for the 29v output was bad. In your case, if we're talking about the top of the board, my best guess is to try a 1N5818B Schottky diode, rated for 30v 1a. I had tried to reach out to the original manufacturer in Israel to see if I could locate a set of schematics, but never got a reply, probably for obvious reasons. Local suppliers here only want to sell new units.

 

I had a similar pcb from a friend. Just looking around this big capacitor seems exploded. I will open later,not easy for the big metal cover.

 

I had a similar pcb from a friend. Just looking around this big capacitor seems exploded. I will open later,not easy for the big metal cover.

UPDATE: I opened the case of the capacitor. Here the appearance