Hello everyone

I am working on a project in which I have to connect a 12v resistor (Polyimide Heater) with 150 watts of power to a manufactured lithium battery.

The battery is 12v and 17600 mah (with a BMS 3s 20a module).

(Reference images)

So the idea is to be able to connect and disconnect the resistance to the battery through a current cable.

So I don't know which connectors would be recommended for the output of the battery and the input for the resistor.

Thanks.

 

Anderson Powerpole, Cinch Jones connector, Dean or XT60 (used for RC batteries), XLR. XLR and Jones are available in various styles (inline, panel mount) and pin counts; Jones are now overpriced, unless you find some at a surplus dealer. Powerpoles come in different sizes; panel mounting requires ingenuity (I cut and filed little aluminum plates to hold them) or buying or 3D-printing mounting clips.

 

Thank you very much,
It helps me a lot to make the first prototypes.

But I forgot to mention that this was part of another product, so the idea is that it is a connector that anyone can buy, that is, more standard.
At first I was thinking of using DC jack connectors, but I doubt it would work for heating pad power.

 

Thank you very much,
It helps me a lot to make the first prototypes.

But I forgot to mention that this was part of another product, so the idea is that it is a connector that anyone can buy, that is, more standard.
At first I was thinking of using DC jack connectors, but I doubt it would work for heating pad power.
View attachment 281949

A lot of versions of that part are available - some barrel connectors are rated as low as 250mA, so the thin sheet metal can get red hot. You might find a barrel connector that can handle 5 to 7 amps but they are noticeably heavier than most barrel connectors. The fatter barrel connectors used on Dell laptops don't even handle 12.5A. Be sure to use a good power supply that has short circuit protection or you could run into some flaming problems if the connector overheats and shorts out.

 

Also, those polyimide heaters are intended to be mounted firmly to a surface that can dissipate the heat. I had one connected to a 1/2" aluminum tube that was always supposed to be filled with circulating water. A pinhole leak caused the water level to drop, the heater overheated and polyimide eventually curled and the copper got red-hot and shorted with carbonized scars on the polyimide. Good luck.

 

Anderson Powerpole, Cinch Jones connector, Dean or XT60 (used for RC batteries), XLR. XLR and Jones are available in various styles (inline, panel mount) and pin counts; Jones are now overpriced, unless you find some at a surplus dealer. Powerpoles come in different sizes; panel mounting requires ingenuity (I cut and filed little aluminum plates to hold them) or buying or 3D-printing mounting clips.

I don’t know if you are aware of the variety of panel mount options from Powerwerx. If not, there you go.

 

A real 18650 battery cell is 3300mAh max. Your "8800mAh" cells are cheap fakes.

 

A real 18650 battery cell is 3300mAh max. Your "8800mAh" cells are cheap fakes.

So, my 68,284mAh cells are fake as well?

 

A real 18650 battery cell is 3300mAh max. Your "8800mAh" cells are cheap fakes.

Just for the record, there are 18650 cells as high as 3500mAH, like the LG MJ1 or the Panasonic NCR18650GA (3450mAH) as well as others. That’s not a lot more than 3300mAH but it is higher. I don’t think I would believe anything over about 3600mAH which seems to be a physical limit for now.

 

Just for the record, there are 18650 cells as high as 3500mAH, like the LG MJ1 or the Panasonic NCR18650GA (3450mAH) as well as others. That’s not a lot more than 3300mAH but it is higher. I don’t think I would believe anything over about 3600mAH which seems to be a physical limit for now.

I don't know where 3500 or 3600 come in unless you are rounding up a "typical" battery. But since Panasonic doesn't allow me to buy only the "typical" ones out of a case, so, for the record, I usually design to the minimum value specified which would be, 3350mAh.

 

So, my 68,284mAh cells are fake as well?

Yes, unless the battery is huge and heavy.

Here is a video of an UltraFire 18650 battery (same brand as the photo I showed).
The cell in this video is cut open to reveal that it is mostly full of flour (for its weight) and actually does contain a tiny 66mAh battery inside.

 

Anderson Powerpole, Cinch Jones connector, Dean or XT60 (used for RC batteries), XLR. XLR and Jones are available in various styles (inline, panel mount) and pin counts; Jones are now overpriced, unless you find some at a surplus dealer. Powerpoles come in different sizes; panel mounting requires ingenuity (I cut and filed little aluminum plates to hold them) or buying or 3D-printing mounting clips.

Update: I'll be testing with XLR connector, they seem like a good option.

 

The batteries you mentioned earlier I almost bought (which are probably fake ones), so thanks for the pointer.
The idea was that the battery would have a high charging capacity, so I will reformulate the arrangement of the batteries.

 

The batteries you mentioned earlier I almost bought (which are probably fake ones), so thanks for the pointer.
The idea was that the battery would have a high charging capacity, so I will reformulate the arrangement of the batteries.

Is this for a heated clothing project?

 

Consider that 150 watts at 12 volts will be 12.5 amps. Consider also that a battery that small delivering that much current will have a short lifetime.

 

Consider that 150 watts at 12 volts will be 12.5 amps. Consider also that a battery that small delivering that much current will have a short lifetime.

Now I was thinking of changing the configuration of the battery from 12v to 20v, so it would need 7.5a
And I thought it uses a 150w notebook charger as power.
Therefore, use a Barrel connector.
Will it also be possible to use a barrel connector to power the heater?

 

Is this for a heated clothing project?

No, it is to heat a stainless steel tube