Help converting schematic to breadboard - vibration sensor to led and buz.

Thread Starter

Jeff Simons

Joined Jan 23, 2016
17
Hi there,

I'm pretty new to electronics and am having a bit of trouble trying convert the attached schematic diagram onto a breadboard to test. The main issue I'm having is understanding linking up the IC, is there a way of simplifying the circuit diagram?

Thanks :)
 

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GopherT

Joined Nov 23, 2012
8,012
Hi there,

I'm pretty new to electronics and am having a bit of trouble trying convert the attached schematic diagram onto a breadboard to test. The main issue I'm having is understanding linking up the IC, is there a way of simplifying the circuit diagram?

Thanks :)
So, the CD40106 is a hex inverted (it has six inverters). The schematic shows the six inverters as U1a , U1b, and so on until U1f.

It doesnt matter which of the six are used for a, b, c etc. puts make sure that the Input for a aligned with the output for a on the chip. The schematic (pinout) of the chip is on the datasheet. Just google cd40106 datasheet.

Two pins are not shown on your schematic but you will see it on the CD40106 datasheet. The power (+ and 0).

When I assemble a circuit from a schematic, I place a wire for each line on the datasheet and then mark it on the schematic that I placed the wire. Make sure everything gets marked. Your breadboard will not look (physically) like the schematic when done. As long as the wires all go to the right nodes, all should work. If you are still not sure, google bread boarding a circuit and click on videos, there are many tutorials to show you how it is done.
 

shteii01

Joined Feb 19, 2010
4,644
I only see one IC, the CD40106B. The circuit diagram is the simplified view. The actual physical connections will be more complicated than what you see in circuit diagram.
 

Alec_t

Joined Sep 17, 2013
11,388
Note, the 300 Ohm resistor represents the buzzer for simulation purposes only: it is not something you actually include on the breadboard. Likewise the 100 Ohm resistor shown as the sensor.
C2 should be as close to the IC pins 7 and 14 as is practical.
 

GopherT

Joined Nov 23, 2012
8,012
Seems a waste of gates putting four in parallel, just use one, its a schmidt trigger.
It's hard to leave half those gates in the storage bin and, I thinks the designer was abiding by the rule, never leave inputs floating.

I agree with you, though. One is enough and this configuration does put big stress on those outputs if they all do not switch at exactly the same time (essentially sourcing or sinking the full load of the partner inverters for very short bursts).
 

Thread Starter

Jeff Simons

Joined Jan 23, 2016
17
You'll have to excuse my ignorance, this is the first time i've tried this since school...

I'm still having some issues, basically I tried to put it all together today and it just blew the LED without the sensor being activated so I've started from scratch , is the IC linked up correctly in this image?
 

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absf

Joined Dec 29, 2010
1,947
I have made the breadboard as below... Does it help you anyway?:D

Don't have 9V battery in my library and I don't know how to bend the R1 resistor 360° so it occupies 2 adjacent holes, so I use 2 resistor with half the value 220K+220K~=470K. C3 10uF (above the LED) is added by me for extra decoupling.

JEFF SIMOM_bb.png
Allen
 
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Thread Starter

Jeff Simons

Joined Jan 23, 2016
17
Thats very helpful of you, thanks very much! Is that 2 x 1uF capacitors? Ive just managed to blow the last LED i had fiddling around with it! Will the circuit still work I just bypass the led and resistor for test purposes until i get chance to pick up some more?
 

Thread Starter

Jeff Simons

Joined Jan 23, 2016
17
Ok I did it by that breadboard, minus the LED and I'm getting a crackling from the speaker for a second or so when the battery is first connected, then nothing when the sensor is tapped. Is the schematic correct? sensor.jpg
 

Thread Starter

Jeff Simons

Joined Jan 23, 2016
17
Sorry, it is a buzzer not a speaker. I removed it anyway, just hooked up the LED but its the same, just staying on permanently. Whether the sensor is connected to the breadboard or not is having no effect on the LED. Is there a different circuit I could use that would serve the same purpose?

sensor.jpg
 
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