good signals at both points .
good signals at both points .
Try a signal test at the output that goes to the loudspeaker.good signals at both points .
good signal on yellow speaker wire.Try a signal test at the output that goes to the loudspeaker.
Then the verdict is the loudspeaker is damaged.good signal on yellow speaker wire.
ouch . will remove and take a look . why did the power amp fail then ?Then the verdict is the loudspeaker is damaged.
When the power amp failed, the voice coil overheated and is now rubbing against the magnet. You can check this by removing the loudspeaker and attempting to move the cone with your two thumbs. The cone should move freely on a good loudspeaker.
Or you can get another loudspeaker and test it on the bass amplifier.Have removed the speaker and it looks in good shape . The cone moves freely as I think it should . I guess I should hook another amp up to it and see how it sounds . Just not sure about power draw . would a 15 watt guitar amp be ok to hook it up to?
gotcha . will do . Thanks Mr Chips . will let you knowOr you can get another loudspeaker and test it on the bass amplifier.
Either way would work. Test at low volume level only.
As long as the impedance if the speaker is not lower than the amp is rated for.There is no such thing as a "speaker Power Draw." A speaker rating is the maximum recommended driving power that the speaker is intended to driven with..
This means that a 50 watt speaker will be completely OK connected to a 15 watt amplifier, if that amplifier is working correctly. That means no big DC voltage at the speaker connection.


Got it . Thanks Mister BillThere is no such thing as a "speaker Power Draw." A speaker rating is the maximum recommended driving power that the speaker is intended to driven with..
This means that a 50 watt speaker will be completely OK connected to a 15 watt amplifier, if that amplifier is working correctly. That means no big DC voltage at the speaker connection.
what are the diodes labeled as on the schematic please ?If the loudspeaker checks out ok, then one thing we can try is to increase the base bias on the two driver transistors.
Lift one leg of the diodes and insert a third diode in series. Any silicon diode will do for now.
View attachment 307452
Disconnect the loudspeaker and measure the DC voltages at the transistor base and the speaker output before trying the live sound test with the loudspeaker connected. You want to make sure that the speaker output voltage is close to 0V.
View attachment 307451
Thanks Bill . yeh..I'm a MM learner driver . Interesting point on small signals.Signal tracing still makes sense as a method of locating a problem. Evaluating the bias arrangement and understanding just what is happening can lead to making it work as it should.
If the voltages on the circuit of the power amplifier are correct, checking those voltages could provide an indication of where things are going wrong. But reading millivolt levels demands a suitable meter and being good at using it.
One other consideration is that if the TS is still using a small amplifier for checking the signal, it is responding to a much smaller signal than will be driving the speaker to anything above a whisper. So just because a very small signal sounds good does not mean a larger signal will not be distorted.
AND, as for matching speaker impedance to amplifier impedance, at lower power levels, much less than half of the maximum output, matching is not so critical.
A lot of things that some of us always think everybody knows are not really so very obvious to those without years of experience. And in addition, for this repair project, not having the complete circuit schematic makes the analysis a lot more challenging. The fact that more than one or two components could have failed also makes the challenge much greater.Thanks Bill . yeh..I'm a MM learner driver . Interesting point on small signals.
well , thanks for the education .. I'm afraid alot of it is over my head at the moment ..I'm reading up on the different class's of amps and ..uh yeh . ..its deep . I do however have a 3 1/2 display on my MM. ..so I'm good there ...now if I can learn how to use it properly that would be even gooder hey .The importance of polarity has been emphasized by Mr Chips...I think it's imprinted in the grey matter at last .A lot of things that some of us always think everybody knows are not really so very obvious to those without years of experience. And in addition, for this repair project, not having the complete circuit schematic makes the analysis a lot more challenging. The fact that more than one or two components could have failed also makes the challenge much greater.
The explanation of why the very small signal could be undistorted while the louder signal was distorted can be explained by the fact that to eliminate crossover distortion this amplifier, like many others, tends to operate like a class "A" amplifier in the area of the signal passing through zero volts. That is done because as the output transistors transition from linear operation to a cutoff condition they are not linear, and so produce "crossover" distortion as the signal crosses over from one transistor to the other. (The actual math to explain this is rather tedious.)
For measuring the base to emitter voltages a digital meter with a 3 1/2 digit display and a 2 volt range is required to do it in a satisfactory manner. And noting the polarity is important.