I have an old Genie Garage door safety sensor and like to use Independent without connecting to the actual Garage Door.
It's working perfect when it's connected to the Garage door opener

I tried to connect to the 12V DC power supply and it shows both green and red LEDs
When both in line, it doesn't stop blinking the RED LED
Is it possible make this work?
What's the actual power supply required this to work?
Thanks in advance

 

Found this: http://www.electronicdesign.com/boards/garage-door-opener-parts-form-ir-intrusion-detector. Unfortunately, fig.1 and fig.2 (the schematics) seem to no longer be available.

 

Found this: http://www.electronicdesign.com/boards/garage-door-opener-parts-form-ir-intrusion-detector. Unfortunately, fig.1 and fig.2 (the schematics) seem to no longer be available.

Thanks Ylli,
It's hard to figure out the problem without the schematics
As I mentioned earlier, it's working when connected to the garage door opener
Why it's not working when connected to an external power source?

 

Power source opener is not 12 volts like a power supply it receiving code they don't filp a switch they send a code telling the micro some thing walked in front of them the same wire is used to send code from keypad on some openers `

 

I have an old Genie Garage door safety sensor and like to use Independent without connecting to the actual Garage Door.
It's working perfect when it's connected to the Garage door opener

I tried to connect to the 12V DC power supply and it shows both green and red LEDs
When both in line, it doesn't stop blinking the RED LED
Is it possible make this work?
What's the actual power supply required this to work?
Thanks in advance

One side is an IR emitter flashing at, usually, 38kHz

The other side is a phototransistor behind an ir filter. Back a the garage door opener, the sensors make some action if the phototransistor is not seeing a 38k hz signal when the door is closing.

 

One side is an IR emitter flashing at, usually, 38kHz

The other side is a phototransistor behind an ir filter. Back a the garage door opener, the sensors make some action if the phototransistor is not seeing a 38k hz signal when the door is closing.

GopherT,
It's working perfect when this is connected to the Garage Door Opener.
I want this to work without connecting to the Garage door opener terminals. Is this possible?

 

You need to show us HOW its is connected to the door opener and then we will ask you to take some voltage measurements with the beam clear and with it obscured. show us which are the power connections to the beam unit and which are the control signals to the door opener. Do you have an oscilloscope to check if the control signal is some kind of pulse train rather than a DC level change ? After doing some investigation on the internet it suggests that the IR transmitter and receiver units are connected in parallel rather than power to both units and relay contacts (Or open collector output.) on the receiver. I found this Youtube video that shows the waveform from the units. This would help with designing a unit to enable these sensors to be used without the electronics in the door opener.

Les.

 

You need to show us HOW its is connected to the door opener and then we will ask you to take some voltage measurements with the beam clear and with it obscured. show us which are the power connections to the beam unit and which are the control signals to the door opener. Do you have an oscilloscope to check if the control signal is some kind of pulse train rather than a DC level change ? After doing some investigation on the internet it suggests that the IR transmitter and receiver units are connected in parallel rather than power to both units and relay contacts (Or open collector output.) on the receiver. I found this Youtube video that shows the waveform from the units. This would help with designing a unit to enable these sensors to be used without the electronics in the door opener.

Les.

You guys in the UK don't have safety sensors on your door openers?

If it is a standard US garage door, the only "how it's connected" he can report is ... a four pin connector is plugged into the door opener and the for-wire cord splits into two cables of two wires. And, as I said above, one is the ir emitter and one the photo diode, all controlled by the main door opener motor box. There is no "communication" to the sensors other than what you would expect from a 38k square wave supply and the small signal expected from the receiver side (which is filtered for ambient noise and amplified on the circuit board in the garage door box.

 

Never bothered to check mine but sender and receiver are both 2-wire devices and... they are connected in parallel.

 

Don't know about yours..But the doors I've worked on the control was ac not dc, usually 24 volts.
I'd try a lower voltage first...

 

From looking around, my first guess is that both the source and detector are powered by 24 vac, and the 'sense' is in the amount of current drawn by the detector.

 

Any chance of the model number of this sensor, or like a datasheet info?

 

Any chance of the model number of this sensor, or like a datasheet info?

They are simple Ir emitte placed on one side of the door, phototransistor on the other. 38kHz operation. Only wires and two components and a four pin connector. All other components and power in the main garage door opener chassis (the part that the OP doesn't want to use).

If he wants to srart from there it is up to him. But someone will have to point him in the right direction.

 

You need to show us HOW its is connected to the door opener and then we will ask you to take some voltage measurements with the beam clear and with it obscured. show us which are the power connections to the beam unit and which are the control signals to the door opener. Do you have an oscilloscope to check if the control signal is some kind of pulse train rather than a DC level change ? After doing some investigation on the internet it suggests that the IR transmitter and receiver units are connected in parallel rather than power to both units and relay contacts (Or open collector output.) on the receiver. I found this Youtube video that shows the waveform from the units. This would help with designing a unit to enable these sensors to be used without the electronics in the door opener.

Les.

Les,
I looked thru the video and seems like there is sort of pulse coming from the Door opener. As shown in the video, it is connected parallel and both IR and receiver communicate, this send signal to the Unit if there is any obstruction on the way.
What I am trying to achieve is to get this working without connecting to the Door Unit, but connecting to an external power source so that I get an LED light blink when someone cross the IR beam. I am trying to utilize the old sensor I have now.
If this doesn't work I need a help to get a circuit to make one simple sensor with a blinking LED light

 

Any chance of the model number of this sensor, or like a datasheet info?

Here is the details of the sensor unit

 

Not much use this sensor information,..

 

I told you they don't work like the TS thinks they send code out inside the opener theirs a uC it reads the code some smarter then the rest 2 wire it goes to 2 of them and you can add a keypad on most.
It's Manchester encoded or most are so you have power and data on the same line.
I got 2 new ones and added to a older opener it was a pain in the butt to get to work it wasn't made for break beams.
But they wanted them and paid for it. so I made it work with a pic chip. I was looking for my notes. it's been years back.

 

I think it will be simpler to make or buy a beam break detector then to use the unit that you have. If you want a challenge then start by tracing the schematic of the electronics in both units and possibly the door opener.

Les.

 

I looked thru the video and seems like there is sort of pulse coming from the Door opener.

That is what Gopher has been telling you from his first post.

 

Found this: http://www.electronicdesign.com/boards/garage-door-opener-parts-form-ir-intrusion-detector. Unfortunately, fig.1 and fig.2 (the schematics) seem to no longer be available.

Electronic-Design has changed their web site a couple of times and evidently in some cases did not transfer everything over.
It took me quite a while to eventually find one article I had originally bookmarked.
Max.