I’m asking for a solution to the 5KHz and above glitch at the input of decade 5.If the display shows the frequency it is set for, what is the problem? I really don't understand what you are asking.
I’m asking for a solution to the 5KHz and above glitch at the input of decade 5.If the display shows the frequency it is set for, what is the problem? I really don't understand what you are asking.
Had the problem with the capacitors and without.Where are your 0.1μF ceramic capacitors?
I don't see any.
That is not the issue. It is like wearing a seat belt. You don't see any effects with or without.Had the problem with the capacitors and without.
Good point.That is not the issue. It is like wearing a seat belt. You don't see any effects with or without.
The point is, you can have 10 problems on the board, fixing one problem shows no difference.
More importantly, it would allow us to give you meaningful troubleshooting suggestions.It was mentioned if I draw the entire circuit, I could find the source of the problem.
Thanks fellas.More importantly, it would allow us to give you meaningful troubleshooting suggestions.
I am assuming you are using the counter as a binary counter and not a BCD counter.Designed a counter using LS circuits.
All was going well up to the last decade.
The circuits track the frequency as designed to 5KHz.
After that the last stage output sends a pulse to the fifth once every four gate times.
Lower the frequency, the pulse stops.
I use the LEDs to save board space.I am assuming you are using the counter as a binary counter and not a BCD counter.
If you are looking at the output of QD, you will see a low pulse on the count of 4 and 9 (see the truth table attached).
Are you sure the circuit is counting the way you expect it to? I rather doubt it. Did you design it or is it from a source on the internet?
View attachment 199008
You have LEDs in your circuit?I use the LEDs to save board space.
I can read a binary number as easily as I can a decimal number.
The counters are decade counters.
Why has the first four decades not been affected?You have LEDs in your circuit?
What is driving the LED?
Do you know that you cannot drive LEDs and take a logic signal from the same output pin?
Here is another reason for paying attention to datasheets.
True.It looks like the LEDs are being driven by LS374 and HC374:
View attachment 199009
It looks like you're using #24 wire. I've found that anything smaller than #22 has a tendency to pull out when nudged.I’ve been doing it for years without problems.
True.It looks like you're using #24 wire. I've found that anything smaller than #22 has a tendency to pull out when nudged.
I have an LED cube prototype that I've been running for a year or so. Every once in awhile, the multiplexing become erratic and I need to wiggle some wires to restore correct operation. Those wires are using male DuPont connectors that have a snug fit in solderless breadboards.
Another common response: "I’ve been doing it for years without problems."Why has the first four decades not been affected?
I’ve been doing it for years without problems.
The resistor I used drops the LED current to about 10mA.
We’re moving away from the issue.Another common response: "I’ve been doing it for years without problems."
Did I tell you about the house painter who had been climbing the same ladder for 35 years?
"I’ve been doing it for years without problems."
Using #22 wire and not abusing the sockets by installing things that are too large (TO-220 leads, #18 wires) will give more trouble free operation.Some of the places are to loose for the #24 wire so I have to move the wire to another place in the row or move the device.
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