I'd fear that the bulb might draw enough current to hold the gas valve open. I doubt it would open the valve, but once the valve is open it might not close. That could cause an overheating condition. Then I'd be replacing the fusible link.

I was thinking of placing the bulb in parallel to the gas valve, not in parallel to the thermostat. So, one lead of the test light to the valve side of the thermostat, the other lead to chassis ground.

But really the voltage measurement - with meter in parallel to the valve as suggested for the test light - should be fine. I can't think of a mechanism by which you'd get a misleading "ghost" voltage there, one that would be revealed as a ghost by the test light.

Have you checked continuity on your valve solenoid coils? I just replaced one of mine yesterday. It showed no continuity at room temperature and that prevented the flame from starting at all. I've heard that these coils can fail to open when they get hot, and that could cause the flame to go out early. That's much harder to diagnose. Good news is that a new pair of coils in only ~$8.

 

they're not very expensive.

a new pair of coils in only ~$8.

Good advice. But I always tell others to fully diagnose a problem before you start throwing money at it. Perhaps I should live by my advice. Nevertheless, thanks. Next time the wife runs the dryer I'll do some more watching.

 

Long way around: Here's my YouTube of the dryer flame. Mostly blue but definitely some yellow going on as well.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Q9gH77ETqqw

The inlet to a gas dryer is unfiltered local ambient air, meaning it sucks in air from directly around the dryer, which usually means lint too. Some yellow will be normal as some lint burns off.

These types of gremlim style issues usually boil down to the snap sensors or other temp related items. I have seen before the ignitor having a problem re-igniting the flame, but typically it's just the low cost items that create the gremlin issue. Sometimes even a snap switch will temporarily lock in a open position because the mechanics of the swicth have failed.

With a few sensors in there, not exactly sure how they are wired or work together (series, etc), not having the schematic (which may be in/on the dryer), diagnosing is more cumbersome. I just spend the $30-40 to replace all the sensors I can, plus the ignitor.

 

FWIW, they sell kits with various combinations of sensors, coils, igniter.

 

Since there are only three variables in the drying process, which are heat, airflow, and time, it does not seem that locating the cause of increased time should be that difficult.
But then it seems that there is one more variable, which is the amount of water to be removed. Could the washer spin cycle have changed somehow??

 

Could the washer spin cycle have changed somehow?

Excellent question. I'll give that a look into when the next load is done. Thanks.

 

Excellent question. I'll give that a look into when the next load is done. Thanks.

That's the beauty of having sensors in the dryer, it takes away the wet variable.

 

Don't know if you looked at the pictures, my dryer has a moisture sensor. But we never use that feature. Old habits die hard.

 

Don't know if you looked at the pictures, my dryer has a moisture sensor. But we never use that feature. Old habits die hard.

Moisture sensor may be used all the time to keep heat level to setting, whereas moisture sense in a cycle perhaps stops drying when certain level of dryness is reached. User manual should say.

Evaporating water absorbs heat from the heated air, thus lowering temp. What sensors are involved with that vary.

Also, you did verify the venting is 100% clear?

 

you did verify the venting is 100% clear?

I've disassembled it and checked for lint cloggage but didn't find any. Sensors are clear, fan is clear, ducts all the way out are clear.

Very first post.

 

The cause of excessive dryer running time might also be due to a deficiency in the spin cycle of your washer machine. Wetter clothes will take longer to dry. Another interesting thing is the possibility that some new clothes may hold more water than the ones that they replaced.

 

The cause of excessive dryer running time might also be due to a deficiency in the spin cycle of your washer machine. Wetter clothes will take longer to dry.

Kudo's to MisterBill2; you got it spot on. The washer is not spinning the clothes like it should. I'll have to look into whether it's belt driven or if it's a worn clutch. The machine IS an older one.

 

After review: (post #3)

Have you noticed if possibly the spin cycle in the washer is doing its job.

Don't know why I missed that suggestion. Thanks ElectricSpidey Kudo's as well.

After even further review of my thread I DID acknowledge ElectricSpidey's comment. I'm the one who dropped the ball. I suppose I was more focused on figuring out why the dryer was taking longer and pointing all my efforts there and there alone. This thread would have been resolved long ago had I followed through.

Thanks to all who contributed.

 

The washer is not spinning the clothes like it should. I'll have to look into whether it's belt driven or if it's a worn clutch. The machine IS an older one.

Before you start tearing into things, look to see if there is a lint trap on the washers drain line. They can and do get clogged. It would have to be very old to be belt driven.

 

Before you start tearing into things, look to see if there is a lint trap on the washers drain line. They can and do get clogged. It would have to be very old to be belt driven.

Certainly a washer that has a belt in the drive is not current "state of the art", but there have been higher quality appliances produced in the past that do not require replacement every few years.

That longevity used to be called quality, until some fool started equating the bloated addition of features as quality.