I'm in the porocess of making some lighting setups for a work shop and work areas with LED's, using 3, 5, 10, 20, 30 and 50w lights.

Once I started coming across the 50w lights, they started offering a "driver adapter" which I'm a little confused with.

I would like to use mains (120v) with this setup and can do this easily by wiring them correctly, using a rectifier and a smoothing cap. From what I've seen, the LED module cost about 10-20% of the "driver" cost so IDK what the deal is with this and if it is necessary.

The LED states that input voltage is +30-36, 1500MA and then it states that "input voltage for the driver adapter driver: 85-265v".

I'm guessing that these are for applications where only one light is going to be used and it needs the V dropped from normal 110/220 down to the 30-36v?

So if I run 4 of the lights in series (the ones I have say 30-33vdc) then that should be adequate on my household V of 120 (I measured). IDK if I should worry about getting that last 12v some how, though there are a lot of wall warts (or PS PSU's that are 12vdc) but IDK if running a 12vdc in series with a rectified 120vdc would be dangerous.

I also have the option of running these in parallel at 32v which may be the better option, though when I need to run 16-20 of these at a time, then running 4 in series would be a much better idea except for the fact I don't like 120v DC running around my house....

 

Hello,

The drivers are essential, as the leds are current driven.
The drivers will also provide isolation from the mains.

Bertus

 

hi,
If you considered the 36Vdc option, there are 36Vdc [ electric cycle battery] chargers available.
I would advise adding a suitably rated, series power resistor, as a current limiter

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/36-volt-battery-charger

E

 

I have LOTS of 16.5 to 18v chargers from old computers (have about 8-10 of each, so maybe 40+ of them). Would it be possible to run the outputs in series? I've seen PC UPS's run in series when the ground is removed from all but the "first" or base unit. I know that isn't the safest, but of we are talking about 1.5A at 33-36v, is that too dangerous?

I still need to figure out how current works like hook a 20A motor up to a 100A line and it only pulls the current it needs, correct? Why doesn't the light do the same type of thing? Hook up a light that needs 1.5A to a 100A line and it only pulls 1.5A?

Also, if I have a standard 120vAC transformer that steps down to 34v, is that alright once that is rectified? I can figure out what resistors I need but I don't see why this wouldn't work.

 

hi,
LED's are current driven devices, so some method of current limiting is required.
You cannot compare them with say a lamp or a motor.

If you have a PC power supply it would be possible to use that to drive a boost converter.
E
EDIT:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150W-Boo...162809&hash=item2c9511011a:g:9J8AAOSwxYxUsxLa

 

hi,
LED's are current driven devices, so some method of current limiting is required.
You cannot compare them with say a lamp or a motor.

If you have a PC power supply it would be possible to use that to drive a boost converter.
E
EDIT:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150W-Boo...162809&hash=item2c9511011a:g:9J8AAOSwxYxUsxLa

That boost converter is a great idea!
I have about 6 lighting projects, 3 workshop benches, a large indoor garden and a couple misc lighting apps.

I forgot to mention that I also have a 2600w 42v DC power supply which I guess I could use with a buck
converter? I also have a variety of other old networking and Telco PSU's that can give close to this voltage.

I'm thinking of replacing the old 4' fluorescent lights used for an indoor garden as I really don't like the way they look, but IDK if they make high watt LED's that are good for grow lights (or if I can combine a few "colors" to get the correct spectrum. This light says it provides 380nm-780nm spectrum and rated at 300w. I'm looking at making a long linear light array that will put out more light than fluorescent (maybe less pwer per lumens??)



Since you said that they need isolation, would a standard transformer that drops down to ~32v be alright and provide the isolation needed? I have some 4:1 transformers for stepping down from 480 to 120, which would give about 30v if going from 120 but IDK if that is enough but I could use the boost converter I guess. Just trying to do this without too much extra parts.

 

Hi,
Checkout this link.

https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/resources/lumens_watts/

EDIT:
Mains isolation always essential.
For LED's a series resistor or Constant current source is required.

 

Hi,
Checkout this link.

https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/resources/lumens_watts/

EDIT:
Mains isolation always essential.
For LED's a series resistor or Constant current source is required.

Thanks for the link, that is really helpful, but it seems that these things always leave out the traditional 24" or 48" long flourescent tubes, though they mention CFL's. Are those close enough that they don't need to mention them.?

 

hi,
4ft lamps.
http://www.hoveyelectric.com/hovey-...-Actual-Lumen-Output-For-T8-Fluorescent-Bulbs

 

Hello,

I have replaced the PL lamps in our building with some E27 fittings and led lamps.
The led lamps are becoming more efficient over the years.
Now you can have the following led lamps from philips:
4.5 Watts putting out 470 lumens,
7 Watts putting out 806 lumens,
8.5 Watts putting out 1055 lumens and
11.5 Watts putting out 1521 lumens.
All led light bulbs are E27 230 Volts.

Bertus

 

I highly reccomend getting the proper drivers for those LEDs. Any other solution you come up with is gong to be inferior. Dont even think about running them from a voltage source, nor running them in parallel.

Bob

 

You need to understand the difference between a current operated device, such as an LED or Fluorescent tube, and a voltage operated device, such as an incandescent bulb.