That works for me!
OK, I threw it together in a "quick and dirty" simulation.
See the attached.
The positive and negative rails work out to be around 35v.
The B+ for the tube/valve will be near 60v.
You'll need a transformer that has a center-tapped 24VAC secondary winding, (24v-0v-24v) or two separate windings. It'll need to be rated for at least 150VA (150 Watts).
You'll also need a secondary that is 18v-0v-18v, but that one can be rated for much less power. It's supplying the plate voltage for the preamp, which will draw comparatively little current.
You'll also need a 9v secondary winding for J7 to supply the filament current.
A quick search turned up this page:
http://www.drtube.com/tubedata.htm
Looks like your heater will draw 365mA current. You could use a wall wart rated for 9vac @ 350mA - 400mA
OK, I threw it together in a "quick and dirty" simulation.
See the attached.
The positive and negative rails work out to be around 35v.
The B+ for the tube/valve will be near 60v.
You'll need a transformer that has a center-tapped 24VAC secondary winding, (24v-0v-24v) or two separate windings. It'll need to be rated for at least 150VA (150 Watts).
You'll also need a secondary that is 18v-0v-18v, but that one can be rated for much less power. It's supplying the plate voltage for the preamp, which will draw comparatively little current.
You'll also need a 9v secondary winding for J7 to supply the filament current.
A quick search turned up this page:
http://www.drtube.com/tubedata.htm
Looks like your heater will draw 365mA current. You could use a wall wart rated for 9vac @ 350mA - 400mA
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