Then there's this method. http://www.instructables.com/id/Heatless-cold-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/ . I haven't tried it, but it sounds easy. No heat needed and might work fine using a Brother printer.

 

The real test in toner transfer is the etching.

But by all reports Brother toner is quite poor or unusable for etching boards.

A modded laminator is a good thing as well.

Too bad, the heavy printing of the Brother printers seems darker and better for the photoresist method. Don't dump it or sell it if your thinking about photoresist.

Also, don't let anyone fool you about the complexity of photo method. All you need is a cool tone fluorescent bulb, two pieces of window glass (6" X 6"), some binder clips, scotch tape, drain cleaner (or sodium hydroxide) and a piece of transparency film.

A pair of rubber gloves, goggles, apron and scale are also useful.

 

And a timer. You need a timer and a notebook.

Those el'cheapo UV nail hardener thingies can be pressed into service.

 

I've made thousands of PCB's over the last 40 years at work. Toner transfer has been by far the poorest method I have used. It might be relatively cheap but alsos give inconsistent results and you have to be very careful.
Pre coated positive resist Kinsten PCB gives really consistent results and you can get single and double sided PCB. I use a photocopier and clear plastic transparency sheets. You can also use an inkjet with sheets suitable for inkjet printers. You can either print directly to the photocopier or use a printed sheet or photocopied page from a magazine. You need to fiddle around when you first start to get the photocopier or printer settings right.

Exposure time for the Kinsten PCB is around 90 sec. Kinsten sell a developer powder that you need to mix with water to make the developer. You can use caustic soda with about 25% more needed than for the Kinsten developer, however, the Kinsten developer works better. It takes between 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the strength of the tubes, their distance from the PCB and the type of transparency material used for the artwork. You only need about 12-15mm of developer in a tray for developing. That amount will do around 6 PCB's before it needs replacing. You need to keep unused developed on a sealed plastic container as it goes off if left in the open air.

Once developed (this takes some experience making sure there is no “shadow” between all the tracks and all the copper is a nice pink colour). You need to rinse off the PCB and then use some paper towel to pat it dry. Don’t rub the PCB at this stage as the resist is quite soft and can be scratched. The PCB needs to harden. There are 2 ways of doing that, either leave the PCB for a day or bake it at 80deg C for 10 min. Then it can be put into the etching tank.

If you look here you will find plenty of information.

http://kinsten.co/

If you want some help on making a UV Exposure box I can offer some advice it you like.

 

For the last couple day I have been playing with the Toner Transfer method and failed completely.. I am using the Brother HL-L2305W laser jet printer.. Tried using the glossy paper and wax paper too and both failed.... Right now I am at a loss and looking for other avenues.. The Blue Press-n-peel looks good but not sure if it work with the brother laser jet and not cheap to boot .. The photo resist seems the only option, but I am allergic to UV light which makes it even more fun lol.. So has anyone had any luck with the cheap ebay photo resist kit or have another suggestion???

That shouldn't be a problem, with a properly designed UV Exposure Box as the lid should use some sort of micro switch so the UV Tubes can only come on when the lid is closed.

 

I manage to purchase 2 photo resist kits with the film,developer,and remover.. The developer and remover comes in powder form but I have read I acetone as a remover too...
Also is there any difference between using a CF vs uv leds ???

 

I manage to purchase 2 photo resist kits with the film,developer,and remover.. The developer and remover comes in powder form but I have read I acetone as a remover too...
Also is there any difference between using a CF vs uv leds ???

I've used CFL (cheaper is better, stay away from anything labelled "soft white" or "warm"). Best are the ice blue CFLs.

The UV LEDs are bad for your eyes so you'll need a box. If you are using little indicator
LEDs, you'll have dark patches and light patches and adding more than one means you no longer have a point source.

If you can print really dark-dark, then you can use sunlight (while outdoors) or CFL works, just leave it exposed for 20 to 30 minutes at about 2 - 3 inches from the bulb.

 

I use a nail hardener gizmo. I removed 2 of the 4 tubes and ripped out the reflective foil and painted the inside a dark colour, in an attempt to reduce the amount of scattering of light.
What ever method you use, spend a bit of time dialing the timing in. Some reference I've read suggest leaving at least 5 to 10 minutes between laminating and exposure. If you read enough you'll also see reference to re-exposure after development (negative films) to give it a final harden.
There seems to be an untold amount of ways to apply the laminate, important things to note are cleanliness and a lack of trapped air bubbles. Like anything else, practice makes perfect.
I'm also looking at using photo etching in my model building endeavours, but there seems to be a bit more involved in getting a good product.

And try not to get caught up in the whole "I can etch a thinner trace than you" posturing.

 

I manage to purchase 2 photo resist kits with the film,developer,and remover.. The developer and remover comes in powder form but I have read I acetone as a remover too...
Also is there any difference between using a CF vs uv leds ???

 

Hi Doc,
I've only ever used tubes. I'm on holidays at the moment or I would have been able to give you the tube number. The tubes are a UV type. If you check with tube suppliers you should be able to source them. If you have UV LEDs then you should give them a try first on a small PCB. As far as remover goes I don't use any chemicals. After the PCB has been etched and rinsed off I use fine steel wool or a fine Sandflex sanding block.
Once it is cleaned of resist I spray with circuit board lacquer.

 

If you go to the Kinsten site you can see their information on exposure boxes. The type of tube used is an FL-15. There are also the small UV exposure boxes that do around 150x150 mm PCB's. You will find them on the side menu under alternative UV exposure. They are around $17 US before shipping.
One other bit of advice is that I have found it easier to drill the PCB after it has been etched BEFORE removing the resist as it is easier to see where the holes are to be drilled. Once you have removed the resist and the copper is bright and shiny it is hard to locate the centre of the pad.

 

Also I forgot to ask what do you guys prefer liquid tin or pcb spray lacquer?? The best way I know is solder mask but I am looking to start with etching first then work on solder mask.

 

If you go to the Kinsten site you can see their information on exposure boxes. The type of tube used is an FL-15. There are also the small UV exposure boxes that do around 150x150 mm PCB's. You will find them on the side menu under alternative UV exposure. They are around $17 US before shipping.
One other bit of advice is that I have found it easier to drill the PCB after it has been etched BEFORE removing the resist as it is easier to see where the holes are to be drilled. Once you have removed the resist and the copper is bright and shiny it is hard to locate the centre of the pad.

They $17 ones, they arent the el cheapo nail hardening units with 4 tubes in ?

 

Also I forgot to ask what do you guys prefer liquid tin or pcb spray lacquer?? The best way I know is solder mask but I am looking to start with etching first then work on solder mask.

Don't use any, just solder asap. I know I should probably use a lacquer, but meh. As for I solder mask, I've never had an issue solder on 100 thou spacings........sure if you're going lower but for 100 thou it's no problem. Small tip and a hot iron and ya done.

 

They $17 ones, they arent the el cheapo nail hardening units with 4 tubes in ?

If you go to the Kinsten link I put in an earlier reply you can see what they look like.

 

Also I forgot to ask what do you guys prefer liquid tin or pcb spray lacquer?? The best way I know is solder mask but I am looking to start with etching first then work on solder mask.

If you are making these yourself then lacquer is the way to go. I have an equaliser I made in 1978, recently I had to replace a slide pot. When I pulled it apart the lacquer was still in place and it was still easy to solder to the PCB. You shouldn't have any problems with soldering even small pads. If you don't use a lacquer (I use a spray type, but you can make a reasonable lacquer by dissolving solid resin in metholayted spirits and brushing it on) the copper surface will oxidise fairly quickly and cause contact problems and will be difficult to solder to in the future if you need to make adjustments or repairs.

 

If you go to the Kinsten link I put in an earlier reply you can see what they look like.

Yeah they are the ebay nail hardeners, bit cheaper on evil bay. Came up as AUD $24.30 plus P&P shipped from an Asian country.....got mine for about $20 delivered from a local seller.

 

I've used CFL (cheaper is better, stay away from anything labelled "soft white" or "warm"). Best are the ice blue CFLs.

The UV LEDs are bad for your eyes so you'll need a box. If you are using little indicator
LEDs, you'll have dark patches and light patches and adding more than one means you no longer have a point source.

If you can print really dark-dark, then you can use sunlight (while outdoors) or CFL works, just leave it exposed for 20 to 30 minutes at about 2 - 3 inches from the bulb.

Right now I have a ice blue CFL light I use as my work light.. The work light is a multi bulb lamp and should work great for my intended purpose.. I am trying to stay away from UV if all possible and have seen and read alot of people with great success using CFL bulbs..

I use a nail hardener gizmo. I removed 2 of the 4 tubes and ripped out the reflective foil and painted the inside a dark colour, in an attempt to reduce the amount of scattering of light.
What ever method you use, spend a bit of time dialing the timing in. Some reference I've read suggest leaving at least 5 to 10 minutes between laminating and exposure. If you read enough you'll also see reference to re-exposure after development (negative films) to give it a final harden.
There seems to be an untold amount of ways to apply the laminate, important things to note are cleanliness and a lack of trapped air bubbles. Like anything else, practice makes perfect.
I'm also looking at using photo etching in my model building endeavours, but there seems to be a bit more involved in getting a good product.

And try not to get caught up in the whole "I can etch a thinner trace than you" posturing.

I think my work light should do the job perfectly but time will only tell.. My main concern as you mentioned is the exposer time and will need trial and error..
LOL My main concern is getting a proper etch and complete project and not a pissing contest lol..

Hi Doc,
I've only ever used tubes. I'm on holidays at the moment or I would have been able to give you the tube number. The tubes are a UV type. If you check with tube suppliers you should be able to source them. If you have UV LEDs then you should give them a try first on a small PCB. As far as remover goes I don't use any chemicals. After the PCB has been etched and rinsed off I use fine steel wool or a fine Sandflex sanding block.
Once it is cleaned of resist I spray with circuit board lacquer.

The kit I bought came with developer and remover.. I only have my work lamp, but will look into leds or a uv bulb after too many failed attempts..

If you go to the Kinsten site you can see their information on exposure boxes. The type of tube used is an FL-15. There are also the small UV exposure boxes that do around 150x150 mm PCB's. You will find them on the side menu under alternative UV exposure. They are around $17 US before shipping.
One other bit of advice is that I have found it easier to drill the PCB after it has been etched BEFORE removing the resist as it is easier to see where the holes are to be drilled. Once you have removed the resist and the copper is bright and shiny it is hard to locate the centre of the pad.

They $17 ones, they arent the el cheapo nail hardening units with 4 tubes in ?

I was looking at the nail hardeners but can get them pretty cheap at my local Salvation Army store or try a local fleamarket / garage sale .. Thanks for the tip with regards of leaving the resist on in order to help with the drilling process..

Don't use any, just solder asap. I know I should probably use a lacquer, but meh. As for I solder mask, I've never had an issue solder on 100 thou spacings........sure if you're going lower but for 100 thou it's no problem. Small tip and a hot iron and ya done.

It wasn't to help with soldering. The purpose was to keep the traces from corroding and make the over all appearance better and more profession..

If you go to the Kinsten link I put in an earlier reply you can see what they look like.

Thanks for the link and have checked them out..

If you are making these yourself then lacquer is the way to go. I have an equaliser I made in 1978, recently I had to replace a slide pot. When I pulled it apart the lacquer was still in place and it was still easy to solder to the PCB. You shouldn't have any problems with soldering even small pads. If you don't use a lacquer (I use a spray type, but you can make a reasonable lacquer by dissolving solid resin in metholayted spirits and brushing it on) the copper surface will oxidise fairly quickly and cause contact problems and will be difficult to solder to in the future if you need to make adjustments or repairs.

I was think of using the PCB spray lacquer over liquid tin.. Only because of some issues with tin whiskers on tin plated pcb..

Yeah they are the ebay nail hardeners, bit cheaper on evil bay. Came up as AUD $24.30 plus P&P shipped from an Asian country.....got mine for about $20 delivered from a local seller.

Thanks for the tip ..

 

Found a few links of interest:
https://lab.whitequark.org/notes/2014-02-16/optimizing-for-best-photoresist-adhesion/

More than likely not your brand of resist, but could be food for thought
http://www.frezycnc.eu/pcb-processing-manual/

What I used for dialing in my timing & some stuff I've found on the 'net.

 

A bit of info on designing PCB's.