Greetings friends, I have the current Ego commercial powerhead here (STX4500), the powerhead is the business end of the string trimmer, edger, pole saw, ect. I’m a lefty and always reverse the direction to clockwise on my string trimmer. When I first bought it last year I was very in season and did a quick reversal and used wire nuts to get it done.

I went into it yesterday to examine and take pictures, so I could put together a game plan to add an on-off-on dpdt/dptt rocker, as I have many attachments that require the original rotation direction. When I got inside I immediately noticed that one of the wires had shed it’s insulation and when I fiddled with it the wire nut let go, so I’m glad I went in.

I originally thought the wire was aluminum based on appearance but after reading about soldering different types of wire I learned that aluminum wire is susceptible to corrosion and can’t simply be joined together, particularly with copper, I only have suitable awg copper wire on hand. After more reading, I learned that nickel wire is a common material, especially in tools exposed to weather. This unit is rated IPX-5 and I’m thinking it’s likely nickel now.

Can anyone reasonably confirm the metal used in ipx5 tools? And tell me about soldering ofc copper to nickel, or possibly aluminum if it’s a reasonable metal in this type of tool? I’m having a hard time sourcing aluminum and nickel wire. All I really see is pure copper and copper clad. I want to modify this property and permanently in a way that reliably handles 56v/1,600w, specs say 1,600 maximum, 900 continuous, which also confuses me. It’s a rather powerful unit and I wouldn’t be surprised if it was doing 1,600w on the highest setting. I have rosin flux only as of currently.

 

Looks like regular tinned copper wire on a picture that's not sharp where we need it, on the wire.
https://www.servicewire.com/ServiceWire/Resources/Customer-QA/Tinned-Copper.htm


Easy to solder after it's been cleaned of dirt and contaminates, with a good solder with good flux to eat off the surface oxides.

 

+1

I think I can see copper on the cut ends.

 

From the markings, it looks like a trirated cable, so it must be copper to give low enough resistance to meet the standard.

 

+1
Switchgear cable.

 

Aluminum wire would not stand up to the shock and vibration that would definitely go on in that head unit. I have the same trimmer and it vibrates a good bit - especially when one string breaks. I know - it's one continuous line with auto-feed. But sometimes one of the two protruding cables breaks off leaving a less than balanced head unit. Aluminum wiring would never stand up to that.

 

A simple test for aluminum wire:

"He cut off about an inch of insulation and spread the wire strands out so only a few were sticking out the side. Then he used a Bic lighter (or the equivalent) to burn the conductor strands. If the wire shrivels up quickly, it has a lot of aluminum. If the wire discolors and glows red, it's likely mostly copper."

 

Probably the TS does not have an inch of wire to destroy for that test. A close examination of the cut end s will reveal if it is copper. I have not come across NICKLE wire, but possibly Nickel plated wire.

 

Conductor Material: Stranded, tinned copper

 

Thanks everyone, is rosin flux and basic electrical solder appropriate if tinned copper then?

I will examine the wire under a magnifying glass and look for a copper core. I will do the lighter test if I can’t tell by looking, my eyes are getting terrible in the near field.

 

Bonus question; I would like to make this unit bidirectional with a dpdt switch. I have a few ac rated ones, something like 20a/125v, 15a/250v. Is there a way to convert the amount of energy from ac into dc? Would I need to source beefier switches for this task? I wouldn’t mind doing the repairs and modification while it’s disassembled.

 

 

View attachment 348098

 

I would like to make this unit bidirectional with a dpdt switch. I have a few ac rated ones, something like 20a/125v, 15a/250v. Is there a way to convert the amount of energy from ac into dc?

Look at automotive 12vdc switches.

AC-rated switches may not carry a lot of DC current. AC current goes to zero volts twice each cycle; DC current does not do this, so there must be enough separate between the contacts so an arc can't be maintained across them when opened under load.

 

If you are not going to be operating the switch under load then it does not really matter, AC current or DC current. So a 20 amp AC rated switch will work just fine to CARRY 20 amps DC. Not switching it on and off, though. That has been my experience. But you would need to stay within the ratings. As for wire type, if regular solder using regular flux will stick to it properly then it is not aluminum.

 

If you are not going to be operating the switch under load then it does not really matter, AC current or DC current. So a 20 amp AC rated switch will work just fine to CARRY 20 amps DC. Not switching it on and off, though. That has been my experience. But you would need to stay within the ratings. As for wire type, if regular solder using regular flux will stick to it properly then it is not aluminum.

Under load? Do you mean switching while under load? I wouldn’t be doing that, I would only change the polarity between the changing of tool attachments.

 

Under load? Do you mean switching while under load? I wouldn’t be doing that, I would only change the polarity between the changing of tool attachments.

YES, sorry about not being clear on that. The current carrying ability of contacts is different from the making and breaking capability. So using the switch to set the direction of the rotation before switching on the power should be OK, but using it os an off/on switch might have an effect on contact life.

 

Most all switches have DC rating it be way lower then the AC rating
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/emobility/General Purpose AC_DC Toggles.pdf

 

Under load? Do you mean switching while under load? I wouldn’t be doing that, I would only change the polarity between the changing of tool attachments.

YES, sorry about not being clear on that. The current carrying ability of contacts is different from the making and breaking capability. So using the switch to set the direction of the rotation before switching on the power should be OK, but using it os an off/on switch might have an effect on contact life.

One point I'd like to add to the conversation is that if it is possible to switch during full load then you should build for the worst case scenario. While it's unlikely you would ever do that - there's the chance someone could borrow a tool and do what you'd never do. So my 2¢ (excuse me - my 20¢ accounting for inflation and tariffs) is to get a switch that can handle the full load switching. Even though you may never do that.

 

The under-rated switch is a good booby-trap for any who would borrow without returning a tool. Some of us get ripped off at times. other folks don't.