Ok, I am really going out on a limb here. This is the most basic question you can imagine. But in reality, everywhere I look and try to study, to gain electronic knowledge, I am faced with forums, YouTube videos, or articles that provide answers to specific questions or generally guide a person through a process. Every one of those guides always assume you know the other knowledge required to complete the task. First my question:

How (Specifically to and from what spots) do I connect a Realistic SG-2 RF Signal Generator to a Electronics 465 Oscilloscope?

I am trying to determine if the RF generator is producing accurate frequency output, or if it needs to be calibrated. I am new to electronic equipment and learning as I go. My problem is that I can find plenty of help in functioning and usage of these two devices once they are connected as required. But nothing on how to connected them in the first place. (I said this was the most basic of questions.)

The FR generator has an RF connector, an AF connector, and a screw-in attachment for a bare wire (Lower right in image). I already have a conversion for the microphone connection points on the generator to BNC. So I have a BNC to BNC cord. That is not a problem. But which specific points do I connect to? AF or DC? RF or AF? When I connect either the AR or RF to AC on the scope I get nothing. When I connect to DC, I get a signal, but it is very jumpy. Changes made to the signal on the RF generator do not make any difference at all to the signal shown on the oscilloscope. I know the oscilloscope works because it was demonstrated to me live when I purchased it.

I understand I should know this basic information, but I cannot progress if no one teaches me the basics of connecting signals to and from the oscilloscope. As an example, the most basic things I have read or seen about the oscilloscope says things like "connect the AC source to Channel 1" Ok, I need examples of what is the AC source? I do not want to blow the scope up because I have plugged it directly into an outlet...... I would not do that by the way.

 

Nice looking generator. First, try to find schematic and service manual for it. Are there any connections on the back of it? It might have been modified or updated. The hardware around the model name looks non factory. And the band-switch looks to have been replaced. They may have needed to change a function.....not just replacement.

The scope needs a good cleaning. And of course the paperwork. And probes. Get all paperwork on all of your equipment.

Have you ever used a scope and do you understand how it uses a time-base to display frequency?

That type of generator was built to be adjusted to the frequency that you need. It's analog. It was not meant to be dialed in set. In other words....a 9 on the scale will not be a perfect 9 on frequency coming out. It might be a little higher or a little lower than 9........that's normal operation.

 

Firstly, you do not know if the RF Signal Generator is working.

I suggest you set that aside and learn how to use the oscilloscope as a first step.
Did the scope come with scope probes?
Can you show us a photo of any probes or BNC cables that you have?
We need to see the ends of the cables.

 

I would love to have someone find the schematics or a manual for this generator. I have had it for some time now and have been waiting to proceed because of not having those items. I can find none, anywhere......

There is nothing on the back. I know the generator is tube based/analog. As I understand, these Realistics were sold as kits and put together by the owner. I have cleaned the generator. It already looked very clean on the inside. Has old wax capacitors which I will replace, and a selenium rectifier I will also replace once I can determine the piece actually even puts out any signal at all.

No, I have never used an oscilloscope before. I understand that it will not be spot on. I have also purchased an old RF counter so that I can tune the frequency to a more exact setting. Was hoping to use the generator attached to the scope as a learning tool to help me understand the scope. Hence my initial question. How do I physically hook the two together? What should I expect when the two are connected? Thanks!

 

MrChips:
Except for the fact that the light comes on, no I do not know if the generator works. That was the purpose of hooking the generator up. To #1 see if there was any signal out of the generator & #2 to learn about oscilloscopes. You see that everywhere seems to say things like: "Connect your AC source to Channel 1" or "Connect your DC source to Channel 2". I do not know what sample sources I should use?

I am ready to learn the scope.... It came with probes. Was owned by a retired electrical engineer who now restores old radios in retirement. He bought a digital scope to replace this one.

Here is an image of the pieces.

 

Ok, lets change this whole post. I am not even sure that I am getting anything from the generator. I need to:

#1 Find some other "source" to provide something for the oscilloscope to measure
#2 Learn & practice with the oscilloscope

I again went to the manual for this scope to try and become familiar with the device. And again I cannot even get past page one of familiarization.

The manual explains all the controls. Check!
The manual explains where to set all those controls for initial familiarization. Check!
The manual then says: "Pull the POWER switch (on). Connect the signal to the CH 1 input connector."

I can get no further then this! What signal? Where do I get this signal? How do I hook to this signal? I need someone to please provide me with examples of items I would have around the house to serve this purpose. I can't become familiar with the device until I know what to use as a signal and how to attach that "what" to the oscilloscope! I would like to have examples in both AC & DC. I do not have an Arduino sitting around to use as a source.

Someone please tell me if I am not making sense here.................

 

Again . You need to learn how the scope works and make sure it works before proceeding. Connect our probes to the BNC connectors. Connect the other end of the probe to your calibration port (the U shaped ring). Turn on the scope and see if you can get a signal.

 

Yes, when connected to CH 1 I get two parallel lines. When connected to CH 2 I get a wave. I should go through the familiarization holding the probe to the calibration bar?

 

Yes, when connected to CH 1 I get two parallel lines. When connected to CH 2 I get a wave. I should go through the familiarization holding the probe to the calibration bar?

You should get a square wave on both channels. You should be able to clip the probes to the bar, assuming there are clips on the end of your probes.

 

And you have clips on the probes

 

 

Your scope probes are in need on calibration. Try to find a non metallic screwdriver. You might have one that came with the scope.

 

Good scope the 465. OK in your image you show DC and AC coupling of the 1 KHz test signal. The DC coupling needs the probe to be compensated. Where the scope terminates into the scope BNC connector there is a small hole and a screwdriver adjustment. That is the probe compensation adjustment. I see as I slowly typed Spinnaker replied so I won't go on.

Ron

 

I have a set of trimmer screwdrivers. Done. Now how/what do I connect to something to produce a sinewave.

FYI. My ultimate goal is trimming FM radios.

 

No manual so I am guessing here and it also has been about a million years since I have used an RF signal generator.

Turn the generator on. I think that is the line setting switch.

Turn to the lowest band A.

Turn the gain all the way up. I would think you want to switch to Mod.

That switch near the AF connector might be your AF /RF selector. Switch ist to the left for starters.

Set your scope to AC coupling.

Touch the probe tip to that center connector on the AF connector. You can ground the probe to the outside of the conenctor but you might not need that right off.

 

Well you could try that signal generator. Plug it in and turn it on. Using the band selector choose Band A. Use the RF Output. Now I am going to differ a little from what Spinnaker suggested. Set the Modulation to CARR which I believe is Carrier since we don't want a modulated signal yet. Set the AF Output fully CCW to 0. I would set the RF Output to about 5 or less simply because less a manual I have no clue what the max is. I am also not sure what the Step is. Connect that into your scope and on the scope use AC coupling. The frequency dial is old school where they mention KC for Kilo Cycles before the system went to Hertz we just assumes a cycle was one cycle per second. I can't make it out but the dial looks to begin at about 100 KC which is 0.1 MHz so set the scope time base to about 10 mSec/Div. Use Auto Triggering on the scope with a + slope. You should see something and I would start at 5V/Div for the scope vertical gain. If you see something you can always reduce the vertical gain of the scope or the RF out of the signal generator.

Ron

 

I was thinking getting an audio out to start. It would be closer to the frequency of the probe calibration port. Less messing with scope settings for now.
Or is that AF connector an input? Ah maybe it is. That might make sense since it is an RF signal generator. In which case yes I agree with Ron. Carrier and touch the probe to the right hand connector. That switch under AF might be to turn the AF input on and off.

Gee I don't remember an AF input on those things but again it has been about a million years since I used one.

 

I will bet step is for the frequency adjustment. Course vs fine.

 

I was thinking getting an audio out to start. It would be closer to the frequency of the probe calibration port. Less messing with scope settings for now.
Or is that AF connector an input? Ah maybe it is. That might make sense since it is an RF signal generator. In which case yes I agree with Ron. Carrier and touch the probe to the right hand connector. That switch under AF might be to turn the AF input on and off.

Gee I don't remember an AF input on those things but again it has been about a million years since I used one.

Most of these things, Heathkit, Knightkit (I have one of those) and similar for the day were pretty simple. The internal modulation frequency was generally 400 Hz or as they called it 400 CY. That would be the AF Out as well as internal modulating frequency. So actually using the AF Out would be a good choice as it might (might is the operative word) work fine for a sine wave to look at on the scope. My old Knight Kit is in the basement and has not been even turned on in likely 30 years or more. God knows where any manuals might be.

Ron

 

I followed those instructions. Got a sine-wave but....

It flashes and moves from left to right no matter how I adjust it on the scope, it does not stabilize. Plus, changing any of the knobs (Except ON/Off) on the generator have absolutely no affect on the wave. I thought that the waves would get closer together or further apart with changes to the frequency? Same result using either RF or AF.