ADVANCED PHOTONIX INC AP5668 is a 3-channel 2.6W audio amplifier.
Are you building this yourself from scratch?
Max supply voltage is 6V.

220-470μ 10V capacitor will do.
Negative polarity goes to the speaker.

Consult the manufacturer's datasheet and application notes for proper connections.

Edit: This amplifier has inverting and non-inverting outputs. In other words you can bridge the outputs and no series capacitor is required.

Hi, i have a QCC3034 Bt amplifier board which seems to brown out when pushed too hard as its trying to play those lower frequencies, if i put a cap on the driver, would this stop the wild power draw which causes the amp to turn off? it gets fed 5 or 5.5v and think it has a step up module in it and i dont know if this is the week point.

Moderator edit: New thread created from old thread.

 

I suggest reading the amplifier device manufacturer's application notes. The purpose of application notes is to help readers develop successful applications of the product.

 

Hi, i have a QCC3034 Bt amplifier board which seems to brown out when pushed too hard as its trying to play those lower frequencies, if i put a cap on the driver, would this stop the wild power draw which causes the amp to turn off? it gets fed 5 or 5.5v and think it has a step up module in it and i dont know if this is the week point.

What you are suggesting is a high-pass filter. You need to put the high-pass filter at the input of the amplifier, not at the output.

 

What I think NegativeONE is trying to do is build a bank of storage caps for those harder hitting base notes.

First, welcome to AAC. Second, it's called a bank of capacitors because it's like a bank. If you take money out faster than you put it in - you're going to run out of cash quickly. If the base notes are rare and an occasional thing then they can help. BUT your power supply needs to be able to supply that much power.

I have an old car radio I play in the shop. The power source is a small battery maintainer that keeps the battery at 13.6 VDC. The battery is a car battery. The battery maintainer does not have enough power to drive the stereo by itself, so the car battery (like a bank) stores up the energy and it's ready for those moments when you want to bring the house down.

A capacitor is like a battery in that it stores energy. But equally important is the ability to put energy into that cap while it's playing. If your supply doesn't have enough head room (more power than is typically needed) then you're going to run out of the extra power you were banking in the first place. You can't drive a Tesla automobile on a single 9V battery. You must have enough POWER. My guess is that your power supply isn't strong enough to deliver the base notes you want.

5 volts isn't much for "Power". Power (measured in watts or in VA{VoltAmps}) is voltage times current. If your voltage is low then you aren't going to get much power. On the other hand if you have plenty of voltage but lack the current then the voltage will drop off fast, or "brown out" as you say.

The correct approach is to get the right power source. The step-up module is another weak point. If IT can't push enough power, simply supplying more voltage would be the death of the entire system. Short of it is you need a better power source.

 

@Tonyr1084 yes, you are on the money, i wasnt sure if capacitors on the speaker could restrict those lower notes (that it cant physically play anyhow).
Sounds like the 2A that the boost converters are claiming might not be enough to keep it going and might not be able to maintain what i want using a solo 18650 battery.

 

The sales sheet for the Chinese QCC3034 Bluetooth with amplifier module has no detailed audio specs.
It says, "4 ohms speakers, one Lithium battery cell, voltage boost to 6.5V" and for output power it says "3W, 5W and 8W".
The missing details are the amount of distortion at each output power and per channel.

If it has a class-D PAM8403 stereo amplifier IC (6V max supply voltage) then the output per channel at 1kHz is 2.5W at 0.2% distortion or 3W at a horrible 10% distortion.

The sales sheet for the module says "maximum power" which is peak or double the real continuous power.
If you want 2.5W per channel which is 5W total for both channels then the battery cell must be fully charged at 4.2V and produce a current of about 1.5A including heating losses.
Maybe your battery cell is not fully charged or it cannot produce 4.2V at 1.5A, since you say it drops to 1.5V.