I have some capacitors that have the numbers 102, 103 and 104. What are their values and how do determine the values. I couldn't find a source online.

 

I have some capacitors that have the numbers 102, 103 and 104. What are their values and how do determine the values. I couldn't find a source online.

The first 2 digits are the significant digits and the 3rd is the multiplier; they represent the capacitance in pF. 1000pF (1nF), 10,000pF (0.01uF), and 100,000pF (0.1uF), respectively.

From AVX:

 

102 is 10 and 2 zeroes = 1000pF; 103 = 10 and 3 zeroes = 10000pF; 104 = 10 and 4 zeroes = 100000pF = 0.1 uF

 

Google Capacitor Code

The Best Guide to Capacitor Code (apogeeweb.net)

 

I have some capacitors that have the numbers 102, 103 and 104. What are their values and how do determine the values. I couldn't find a source online.

Many thanks to everyone who replied! They changed the way my older ones were marked, like .1, .01 and .001!

 

On the same note has anyone tried on of these.

 

Yes, I have a prior version of it and have compared its reading to both my 5 1/2 digit bench meter and a dedicated LCR meter (both after zeroing good to within a couple of pFs) and it is pretty accurate. Not research equipment but good enough to sort parts with. They are cheaper if you cut Amazon out of the middle and get them direct from china by AliExpress if you can wait 6 weeks or so for delivery.

Actually this is the one I have and it has a rechargeable li-ion battery and smaller size. Also does inductors and a couple other tricks. From AliX

EDIT: Also, be very careful and read the ad closely as there are similar looking older units (TC-1) that are not up to date and have less functionality! One good hint is the price as the older units are cheaper. They do work fine, just not as full featured.

 

On the same note has anyone tried on of these.

View attachment 255294

I have that one under the DROK brand name. It’s useful for quick tests and the numbers compare favorably to my other high dollar LCR meters. The component ID is handy. I don’t know if this one is a clone of a clone but the DROK seems OK and I have a few other DROK gizmos that work OK as well. You give up input protections, control over operating frequencies, voltages etc., and calibration traceability but it’s a fun gadget.

 

I think they are all made in the same plant in china under several labels as are many china products. I actually have ~4 of them of different vintages and abilities. Early models W/O cases the later models had. They keep making them better and with more functions and larger screens as time goes on.

 

I have that one under the DROK brand name. It’s useful for quick tests and the numbers compare favorably to my other high dollar LCR meters. The component ID is handy. I don’t know if this one is a clone of a clone but the DROK seems OK and I have a few other DROK gizmos that work OK as well. You give up input protections, control over operating frequencies, voltages etc., and calibration traceability but it’s a fun gadget.

There were several of them on Amazon that all looked the same but had different brand names.