Is it running ok with the 10K resistor on pin 1, or is it still only 5V..?

It might be worth comparing the resistor with the working one to get the correct value, then see if it fixes it.

If the Error amp isn't set up correct it won't kick up..

 

No it isn't working. Everything is as it is. Clicking sound still there.

 

I forget to tell one thing as I've not started this repair recently but it's been 3 to 4 months now (lol). The 2 watt resistor in front of the mosfet was blown too due to mosfet failure. So that time i couldn't find exact value resistor i replaced it with 0.47ohm one, i don't remember the exact value of that but it was lower than 0.47ohm, i guess this could the reason for clicking. I don't know you guys say.

 

That is the Current sense Resistor, you have put in a 0.47 ohms, if the original was 0.22 or lower then the current sensing has increased so it will shutdown earlier..

 

Anyone there? I've read so many documents and articles about the topic in 2 to 3 days regarding smps repair. In almost every article it was written that there must be a shorted component on secondary side which is making controller ic kick start again and again but it cant because of the over current. But i cant find any shorted component on power supply board despite of that resistor, which i replaced with 10k first as Dodgydave suggested but later replaced 10k with 47k still there isn't any good news.

I'm feeling embarrassed and ashamed of myself, im a electronics student and will be getting degree in about a year and I'm not even able to repair a simple power supply.

 

If you open the output diode D3, so no voltage appears on the output, the psu will give out maximum AC, if it still goes into shutdown then the fault is on the Primary side.

I've been repairing switchmode psus for 20yrs, and i still throw them in the bin!!

 

I'm not even able to repair a simple power supply.

There is no such thing as a simple offline SMPS. I spent quite a few years fixing the things and even when you have the schematic and you are familiar with the particular model they are still not a breeze to fix. And that's not counting their ability to fire mortars at you or electrocute you.

 

Yes i checked continuity of everything on the board and found one resistor to be shorted.
At the output I'm getting 173.2 ohms between positive and negative terminals.
Picture of faulty board is posted above and the good working one is in it's enclosure and it's for CCTV cameras so i can't turn it off.

A resistor cannot be shorted. The fact that you can't reason this means you need to be more cautious.

This will probably help you more than anything (he reverse engineers this power-supply):

Here's the schematic:

http://danyk.cz/reverz44_en.html

R14 in your images has at least 4 color-bands showing. You cannot accurately measure a resistor in a circuit with an ohm-meter because your meter is putting power into the circuit.

 

No it isn't working. Everything is as it is. Clicking sound still there.

Clicking sound doesn't mean anything is wrong. Transformers do this as their core plates shift and respond to the eddy currents and em flux. If the power-supply is working okay otherwise, ignore it. Whomever told you this could be a problem was misinformed.

 

A resistor cannot be shorted. The fact that you can't reason this means you need to be more cautious.

This will probably help you more than anything (he reverse engineers this power-supply):

Here's the schematic:

http://danyk.cz/reverz44_en.html

R14 in your images has at least 4 color-bands showing. You cannot accurately measure a resistor in a circuit with an ohm-meter because your meter is putting power into the circuit.

I've already watched this. Mine is bit different than this

 

you sure your resistor with missing cover and "one black ring"
isn't this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-ohm_link

 

I've already watched this. Mine is bit different than this

Did you remove D3 like i said in#26,and see if it kicks up??

 

you sure your resistor with missing cover and "one black ring"
isn't this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-ohm_link

Yeah buddy this only...
I used magnifying glass along with flash lights to see some colors must be left there... All this time i was being dumbass. And thanks for that. Today i found out there exists resistors with one band too.

 

Did you remove D3 like i said in#26,and see if it kicks up??

Yes i removed and connected it to mains and nothing was there on output and no ticking.

 

Yes there wont be any output voltage, So if it stops ticking then the fault is on the output side, sounds like D3 could be faulty,...

 

Yes there wont be any output voltage, So if it stops ticking then the fault is on the output side, sounds like D3 could be faulty,...

I've replaced D3 with another diode from other power supply and ticking is still there.
(Originally it was MBR20100CT and just for testing i replaced it with STPS30L45CW.)

 

So if you replaced D3, and you're sure it kicks up when D3 was removed.??..



and now it ticks again, the fault is on the output side..

 

you're sure it kicks up when D3 was removed.??..

When D3 was removed nothing happened on the board, like no ticking and no output.

the fault is on the output side..

Which means output capacitors or feedback?

 

It is simple to have a component breaking down when voltage is applied but checking OK when the power is off and a meter is used for the check. And also I agree that switching power supplies are a serious challenge to find the failure in. That is why I replace failed switchers. Not only because it is hard to find the failed parts, but also because one failure stresses the other parts and leads to a cascading fault string. Switchers are complicated, and also have quite a few highly stressed parts.

 

It might be worth checking ZD2 and U2, this is an Overvoltage protection zener and opto-coupler, to prove it faulty lift out one leg of the zener, and see if it stops ticking.