I bought a high output alternator, it can fit in my car. However, the regulator type on it is P D but my car takes S L.

Could I maybe even try and use the regulator from my stock alternator or buy a S L regulator to fit?

 

What is the application? Do you have any pictures? I am assuming it is a Mitsubishi. If so you should be able to make the switch with no problems. There should be a manufacturer number on the regulator like IM...
What is the number? Any numbers on the alternator?

 

What is the application? Do you have any pictures? I am assuming it is a Mitsubishi. If so you should be able to make the switch with no problems. There should be a manufacturer number on the regulator like IM...
What is the number? Any numbers on the alternator?

Thank you for the reply Here is a bit of info on everything.

My stock alternator is -

Alternator A2TC0291 with Regulator S L

The high output alternator is -

Alternator 13719 with Regulator P D
(This is just for a cross reference, the alternator has been rewound and has about 150A output)

My car is -

2007 Proton Satria Neo

The alternators are almost identical. I am able to fit the front housing from my stock alternator onto the high output alternator so the top mount lines up. The auto electric blew the high output alternator's regulator as P D is not supposed to be bench tested. So I am more confident in doing this myself.

The regulators on both alternator's come out of the same side. If the regulators look the same, could I just swap them out?

 

The regulator on the high output alternator is listed as REG Type - IR, as well as my stock alternator. Is this good news?

 

Okay so here is what you have. The P terminal is a "phase" terminal and is connected to one leg of the stator which should output roughly 1/2 output voltage. The "D" terminal is the "driver" terminal and is controlled by the PCM to turn the rotor on and off. The S-L type is for "sensing" which should have battery voltage all the time and "lamp" which has battery voltage when the key is turned to the on position. You will fry the PD regulator if you plug it into your harness. It is an offbread used on Kia and Mitsubishi cars.
If you can send pictures of both regulators, I could tell you for sure whether or not they can interchange. Everything depends on the two legs which are soldered on to the stator and trio connections. If there is any ID number on those regulators, which there should be (IMM... or M2T......) then I can tell you for sure.
IR means internal regulator.

 

Okay so here is what you have. The P terminal is a "phase" terminal and is connected to one leg of the stator which should output roughly 1/2 output voltage. The "D" terminal is the "driver" terminal and is controlled by the PCM to turn the rotor on and off. The S-L type is for "sensing" which should have battery voltage all the time and "lamp" which has battery voltage when the key is turned to the on position. You will fry the PD regulator if you plug it into your harness. It is an offbread used on Kia and Mitsubishi cars.
If you can send pictures of both regulators, I could tell you for sure whether or not they can interchange. Everything depends on the two legs which are soldered on to the stator and trio connections. If there is any ID number on those regulators, which there should be (IMM... or M2T......) then I can tell you for sure.
IR means internal regulator.

Yep! That's exactly what happened the other week. An auto electric tested the high output alternator and fried the regulator. He told me it was a dud, but I researched it and it even says typical bench tests will fry the regulator.

Here is a link to the part numbers of both regulators, the top one is the P D and the bottom is the L S. They both start with IM. Is this good news!?

http://i.imgur.com/7Nf4VJO.png

 

To answer your question 100%, I would need to see pictures of this alternator, specifically where the regulator and the rectifier come together. There is one terminal different between the two and I believe this to be a problem for you swapping them over. I think it can be done but you would have to take the rectifier with it because of the difference in the way they are built. If you can send me pictures, I may be able to help you but I stop here. The part number for the alternator does not cross reference anything I have here. Where did you get those part numbers for the regulator? Off the units or elsewhere? They are legitimate numbers and IM just means they are Mitsubishi.

 

To answer your question 100%, I would need to see pictures of this alternator, specifically where the regulator and the rectifier come together. There is one terminal different between the two and I believe this to be a problem for you swapping them over. I think it can be done but you would have to take the rectifier with it because of the difference in the way they are built. If you can send me pictures, I may be able to help you but I stop here. The part number for the alternator does not cross reference anything I have here. Where did you get those part numbers for the regulator? Off the units or elsewhere? They are legitimate numbers and IM just means they are Mitsubishi.

Where about is the rectifier located? Will I have to take out the regulator to reveal the rectifier?
Does this also mean I will have to buy a different rectifier?

The part numbers for the regulator are just from a google search. I spoke to the company I bought the high output alternator from and they have shipped out a regulator that he says will be able to swap it out? I am afraid to take apart the alternator until I receive the new regulator.

 

Take pictures of the alternator and post them on here. I can tell you what you need to know. Does he have a part number for the regulator he wants to order?
The rectifier is the piece with the aluminum fins which is a heat sink. It is soldered to the regulator. Do you have soldering skills?

 

http://imgur.com/a/zSxRC

Here is an album of my two alternators, my original one obviously being the one with wear.
I opened up my stock alternator to have a look.
I did highlight the parts that I assume, are what they are? Please correct me if I am wrong.

But as far as I understand, when the new regulator comes, I just de-solder the two circles I made in yellow and the regulator goes back into that spot? and I solder up those two points?

I have emailed him and hopefully he will get back to me. I am from Australia and he is in America, so time differences are very off in emails.

Yep, I have been soldering on and off on my cars and motorbikes for about 5 years now.

 

You have labelled parts correctly. The rectifier is that whole assembly, not just the finned area. I am starting to have a little mire concern now. The front housing has different mounting positions which may cause a problem depending on how much room you have. The second thing and more importantly is that terminal I spoke of. I am waiting to hear back from a friend who works at the place that manufactures the regulstors and rectifiers. I am in canada so I will let you know when I hear something.

 

Cool

The good thing is I am able to install my original front housing onto the new alternator, so the bottom mounts can line up and the top mount is at the correct angle. So I have no problem mounting the new alternator.

The dude I emailed about the regulator didn't give me a part number, just said this.

''The two regulators use the same housing but the internal components are completely different. If you look at them from the outside they appear identical.''

Thank you so much for your help so far, I appreciate it a lot

 

There is all sorts of wierdness, just like a an old Ford i had. It switched positive for the interior lamps. Any other car I worked in switched negative.

So, the first issue is how the rotor is controlled. Switching the positive to the rotor, the negative lead or an isolated rotor.

 

This is a difficult alternator for me to cross reference here in Canada. None of our books show the Mitsubishi part number for this alternator. Can you get me the Mitsubishi part number for the voltage regulator for the original alternator? Use the A2TC0291 alternator number and see if suppliers can give you an OEM number. Or call the dealer.