Use jumpers.

I didn't pay any attention to which gate is used when I assigned U1A-U1F.

U1A and U1B looks ok.

I would have selected:

U1D at pins 13-12
U1E at pins 5-6
U1F at pins 11-10
U1C at pins 9-8

Too late for that, I was almost halfway through. Did it, and drew coloured lines for the different paths on the vero board mask. @MrChips please check my work for obvious errors, but I'm pretty sure I'm without errors... but don't let that stop you: rape my drawing

 

Move C4 closer to U1, between the top track (+V) and pin-7 of U1.

 

why? I'm not disrespecting you, I'm just saying: if I do that I have to add an extra jumper back down to D1 and R1 and (but that's not a problem) lengthen its jumper to ground, and add a extra break for the circle end of the diode. I'f I do that I might aswell lengthen D1 and R1 to pin 1 aswell and save a jumper, but it's still an extra break. C4 also doesn't conduct with V+, only pin 1 @MrChips I'm confused here..
pin7? why, c4 doesn't conduct with pin 7, remember I'm using the original schematic's pin of A,B,C,D,E,F.

Is this a cosmetic or functional change?

Edit: I mistook: C4 does conduct with v+
edit and pin 7+
noob error, I apologize

edit I totally embarrassed myself with this one

 

I tried keeping the rest of the circuit as clear of the paths of U1's A,B,etc so as to save on breaks, that requires a drill and I'd like to avoid that as far as possible

 

why? I'm not disrespecting you, I'm just saying: if I do that I have to add an extra jumper back down to D1 and R1 and (but that's not a problem) lengthen its jumper to ground, and add a extra break for the circle end of the diode. I'f I do that I might aswell lengthen D1 and R1 to pin 1 aswell and save a jumper, but it's still an extra break. C4 also doesn't conduct with V+, only pin 1 @MrChips I'm confused here..
pin7? why, c4 doesn't conduct with pin 7, remember I'm using the original schematic's pin of A,B,C,D,E,F.

Is this a cosmetic or functional change?

C4 is there as a bypass capacitor that absorbs transients reaching U1... in theory it is not essential... but in practice it is very important, if you still want to minimize spurious triggering. It is critical that it is placed as close to U1 as possible, otherwise it won't work as it should.

 

Move C4 closer to U1, between the top track (+V) and pin-7 of U1.

@MrChips Sorry about the misunderstanding... I should have paid more attention. I tried changing as little of the board as possible, and of course pin7 already grounds, so no extra jumpers necessary. I checked, my 0.1uF Ceramic disc can actually reach 8 paces, so the diode 4 is now between v+ and pin7, thank you for the advice.

More?

 

@cmartinez could you find a fault in my laboriously drawn veroboard mask? Use the picture, it's easier than the mask (.pdf) itself, only posted .pdf for other silent partners to this thread, who might find it useful if they wanna build it!

 

@ISB123 you helped me with vero board in the buck LM2576 thread, mind thowing an expert's eye over my drawings, the one before the C4 change has the coloured lines like I got from you (#181 first, then #186); The circuit diagram is #175 page 9

 

Looks good.

 

THANK YOU MrChips, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside when an expert approves of something that was a bit of hell for me to do, this was one of the more difficult things I've had to do in my life, and I am so glad I kept at it, and succeeded although it wasn't all bad, fun too!

Hopefully my order is ready Friday before 12h00 (GMT+2 SAST/CAT), because that's the only time I've got a lift, if the order is only ready (they have to fly in stock from Johannesburg -- I had a lift today, alas) in the afternoon only, I have to wait for the next lift opportunity which might be Monday (I need my dreads tidied up) then we can go after dreads, else maybe Tuesday else only later next week... before I can get my parts

 

HowTo Instruction manual for future gate or door alarm builders (with longest battery life):
- Print out the buzzer_Schmitt_v2_veeCAD_mask.pdf using 100% scaling (no fit to borders or any "auto' scaling)
- take the insulation off a jumper wire and create little right angled pins (I usually use 3)
- push the pins into each corner taking care not to skew the horizontal strips and make sure that the horizontal lines line up with the horizontal strips of the strip/vero board
- then close the right angle pins closed so as to hold the paper in place (close it when you've perforated the paper, no need to wait for pin 2, then do pin 2, etc)
- now break out the board, you don't wanna do this when components are on the board, you'll squash the components, see where the pins are on the corners as guide to where to cut the board. I use a sliding knife, or any sharp knife to weaken the board (cut through the centers of the holes, using a ruler to help, conducting side), and putting pressure close to the break on both sides of the break, just snap off the excess board.
- now do the breaks: use a hand powered drill, I use a Stanley Hand Powered drill; 3 or 4mm bits will work, I use 3mm, then putting absolutely no pressure onto the drill, with relatively fast revolutions, you make a indent (doesn't go through the board, just an indent where the conducting track was), use 2 or 1.5mm bits to try to break the track won't work, they go through the board like nothing and only the 2mm actually breaks the connection on the track, the 1.5mm still leaves some conducting on the hole and you don't wanna go through the board, just an indent that takes off the silver/copper.
- don't use your components to punch holes through the dots for the component on the mask, use a piece of stripped jumper wire, else your components wire will get all bent and ugly. Do all holes before continuing.
- start with the lowest profile (how high it protrudes from the board), the jumpers, then the resistors, then the smallest capacitors moving up in size
- always use a DIL socket for your IC, its a device the same size as the IC, just with a socket for you to place your IC after soldering (you can fry your IC just with the soldering process) and what's more if the IC goes bad, its just unplug en re-insert into the DIL socket -- just ask for a 14 pin DIL socket, they'll know!
- never use a long piece of wire from the reed switch to the board, a long wire (2m+) acts as an antenna that picks up EMI (electro magnetic interference), that will make your alarm sound when not opening or closing, just random fires; ideally you should used shielded wires for this connection especially!
- the circuit was designed for battery use, so that the box can be outside: close to the gate -- close to the reed switch
- then use long wires 25+ meters to the piezo buzzer
- you should use shielded wires but with the long wires going to the buzzer, I use normal jumper wire to my buzzer -- works fine...
- and lastly get yourself a heated de-soldering pump and then never cut the excess component wire too short (but too long, then it bends making a short), leave a little pin sticking out, then when you de-solder, you can use the component again-it's still got a little wire; cut it with your side-cutter directly on the board (no wire on the conducting side protruding at all) then maybe you can remove it, but will be more difficult to re-use
- PS: I use machined jumper wires, you buy them in a kit, for a neat board, absolutely essential, the human needs a lot of fine measuring and bending to get correctly sized jumpers, and quite frankly doesn't compare...
- PPS: They're pretty expensive, but worth it!
- PPPS: buzzer_Schmitt_v1.png is the circuit diagram drawn with a very easy to use application called TinyCAD (mask was drawn with a very easy to use application called VeeCAD)

Parts:
Resistors:
2x 1k
2x 10k
2x 100k
1x 1M
Capacitors:
-Radial Electrolytic
2x 1uF
1x 10uF
1x 47uF
-Non Polarized Ceramic
1x 0.47uF
1x 0.1uF
Transistors:
2x 2n3904 NPN
Diodes:
4x 1N914
IC:
MC14584B or 74C14, CD40106, CD4584
Switch:
1x normally closed reed switch
1x magnet for the reed switch
Buzzer:
Piezo Buzzer (any one will do, ask the shop attendant about 9v and loudness level)
Vero Strip Board:
I usually buy *silver* not copper (copper oxidises and becomes useless after time) 300x100mm sheets, that'll be ample

R6 and C6 determines pulse duration, so making R6 10k and C6 470uF would yield the same duration.

I built this and it works!

 

@MrChips, can I use 1N4148 to replace 1N914B? They buggered up my order and I only noticed it at home...

edit: Google says it's fine to use the 1N4148 vs 1N914B

 

1N4148 would be fine.

 

@MrChips it doesn't work: power on = buzzer on: infinite, until switch is (2 bare wires) connected for RC period: buzzer off until switch open: infinite buzzer

and no, I don't have any bridges, and no I cant send image, line fault so no internet, so I simply can't afford to send pics with my cellphone, data fees insane

 

@MrChips would you please try to explain my phenomena

 

Unsolder and lift one leg of R5 and report what happens.

 

Unsolder and lift one leg of R5 and report what happens.

background: R6=56k C6=47uF RC=2.5s

With R5 removed, power on: short sub 1s burst of buzzing, no amount of wire touching has any effect, hold in place for short and long periods of time, no additional buzzing

 

Reinstall R5.

Unsolder both C2 and C3 and report.

 

Reinstall R5.

Unsolder both C2 and C3 and report.

MrChips: your patience and understanding of this noob is close to heroism, just as bad as a bridge: I forgot to break C3's track in between positive and negative, noob error, I do apologize... I drilled the track open and now
IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!! THANK YOU!

 

MrChips: your patience and understanding of this noob is close to heroism, just as bad as a bridge: I forgot to break C3's track in between positive and negative, noob error, I do apologize... I drilled the track open and now
IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!! THANK YOU!

And maybe now we can proceed with the main street parade and evening fireworks... ha ha ha... congrats