I can't thank you enough, I'll have to buy you a beer when I see you! The resistors, 0.25W would be overkill? This circuit was designed for low current, way lower than 1/4W... just checking the obvious ;-)

And I'll be more than happy to join you with some tequila...

 

If the switch is open the circuit draws about 1μA.
When the switch is open, most of the current comes from resistor R1 which will draw about 9μA.
At those levels you don't have to worry about battery life. That is why I designed it that way.

I mean buzzer8.3's battery life, it's installed, cause that's what I got! your circuit wins, but I still need the parts and it will definitely be built eventually!

 

For buzzer8.3, R2 will draw about 1mA when the switch is closed. The 555 timer itself is drawing 10mA.
Hence a 175mAh battery will last about 16 hours.

 

For buzzer8.3, R2 will draw about 1mA when the switch is closed. The 555 timer itself is drawing 10mA.
Hence a 175mAh battery will last about 16 hours.

I didn't realize that the OP intended to use a battery until much later in the thread... I suggest the 555 circuit is discarded altogether and MrChip's latest version is built.

 

I didn't realize that the OP intended to use a battery until much later in the thread... I suggest the 555 circuit is discarded altogether and MrChip's latest version is built.

I NEVER wanted to use a battery, but that's the only option for moving it outside, now I have to live with the consequences of using my board ;-) have to replace the battery every day until I get stock, then I'm first going to patch up the 555 with tlc555, and then when my veroboard is drawn, and checked with coloured lines, and printed, and the mask attached to the veroboard; I will banish the 555 board to the depths of hell and build @MrChips genius version of my gate buzzer or his gate buzzer

 

@MrChips would you do me a big favour, I saw one of the previous (pre revision 4) used other Schmitt ICs, now the request is, can you give me a list of ICs that I should have in stock, then I'll buy 2 each with this order for rev4's part requirements (working on transport, might still be this week). If it's too wide a variety for a short list, then thanks anyways...

 

@MrChips moved the question to it's own thread: http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/common-ics-for-lab-stock.106886/

 

MrChips, can your cad generate a circuit diagram from the rev#4 diagram, or am I doomed to wire it up myself -- which I will do if I have to, and am actually doing it right now, just don't know where to put things so the wires don't become a mess, so I'll do it, but if you have a auto function; I'd like to use it! Plz!

 

Do you mean, can it lay out a PCB?
I use CircuitMaker to draw schematics. If I transfer it to Eagle it will generate gerber files for PCB fabrication.
But I am going to leave that up to you.

 

not PCB, eventually strip vero board, I'm talking about the in and the out wires for the circuit diagram with the actual pins of the MC14584B

 

Check out StripMagic. I have never used it.

 

Oh, and Vdd is live and Vss is ground?

 

Check out StripMagic. I have never used it.

The problem at the moment is not the veroboard layout, I've got that covered (VeeCAD), I need to translate U1A to an in wire and an out wire for every little juicy U1* bit that you have on your circuit diagram. I'm building a circuit diagram in TinyCAD for that plays well with my licensed VeeCAD (which works beautifully)

 

but I'm building it so no worries, just thought CircuitMaker can export a "is it a logic? diagram" to an actual U1A in and U1A out and U1B in and U1B out actual circuit diagram

 

I designated leading dot as input and trailing dot as output, and assume Vss is ground... does this check out @MrChips?

 

Looks ok to me.

 

Now I'm still under the illusion that I can get this freking thing onto strip board

 

Use jumpers.

I didn't pay any attention to which gate is used when I assigned U1A-U1F.

U1A and U1B looks ok.

I would have selected:

U1D at pins 13-12
U1E at pins 5-6
U1F at pins 11-10
U1C at pins 9-8

 

Use jumpers.

I didn't pay any attention to which gate is used when I assigned U1A-U1F.

U1A and U1B looks ok.

I would have selected:

U1D at pins 13-12
U1E at pins 5-6
U1F at pins 11-10
U1C at pins 9-8

Question... what's the recommended maximum cable length for the reed switch in this latest design?

 

Good question and I don't know the answer. I violated my own design rules stated earlier by moving to a high impedance input (1MΩ) because maximum battery life was the primary design goal. For long transmission lines, 4-20mA is an industry standard that can run 300m over 24AWG wire easily. But that will kill his 9V battery in half a day.