That Sketch is brilliant Bernard thank you will definately help me in understanding what I need to be doing but beginning to realise how much I've taken on lol... I'm never one to do anything by half though.

I've been looking for where I can buy the parts I need and found this website... Any chance you can indicate what it is I need to buy?

http://www.modellingelectronics.co.uk

Alot of the terminologies that you use are above my head but I am learning

On n Livewire... I have some programing capabilities.. Is what you suggest expensive ?

 

If you are in UK, then there is Mouser Electronics-UK, & have SN74HC164N, cheap; Farnell element 14- UK
has SN74 HC164N, SN: 1287514, ( $ = Lb. ), $ .311, SN 74HC14E, SN: 2259783, $ .422
The 74C family is mostly listed as obsolete, so might be best to convert to 74HC which uses 5V or 6V supply. 5V might use 4 Ni-H AAs or AC adapter, 6V, 4 AA Alk.
I'm stepping away until you have a chance to decide which path to take.

 

http://cpc.farnell.com/texas-instru...0XLDpn_dm|pcrid|258579236391|kword|sn74hc164n

Is this the right one? It's 74HC and 6V...does this mean I need 4 AA batteries and a battery box similar to:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=366901

 

Battery box is OK, I like one from CPC better. MFG-SBH-341-1As, SN: BT06094, 4AA side by side, leads & switch. Looks like CPC has everything you need inc. SN74HC164N & SN74HC14N.
For 6V, LED resistor values will change.
C3 can be 5uF @ 16 to 25V & C2 can be .2 - to limit the number of different values.
What are you using for a clock ?

 

Does this thing look something like this ? KidzLabs, Buzz Wire Making Kit.
You could have more than 3 hits for us old folks.

 

need inc. SN74HC164N & SN74HC164N.

Not sure what the difference is here

I agree I prefer the side by side batteries and its got its on own switch so one less connection to worry about lol

C3 can be 5uF @ 16 to 25V & C2 can be .2.

I don't understand this sentence at all

Are you able to give me a full list of what I need from CPC?

Does this thing look something like this ? KidzLabs, Buzz Wire Making Kit.View attachment 152934
You could have more than 3 hits for us old folks.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/332639800704

It looks like it yep haha, I put my pic into the attachments on here but not sure how to share it (gonna try again though) ... Not sure about giving more hits lol I want people not to win

 

hi Byken,
Turned that image the correct way up.
E

 

I made a few changes & added time remaining clock. SW, SPDT bat handle toggle switch; off or " Ready ", resets every thing; on, " Start ", starts the clock, all LEDs on & strike LEDs 1-3 on. Clock LEDs go off one by one left to right every 2 sec. If no more than 2 strikes are recorded & clock times out then the strikeout alarm
, U2, sounds & flashes If 3 strikes are recorded The alarm sounds for about 2.5 sec.
If time is running , no strikes & loupe hits end of travel sensor, S, then home run ckt. U5, is triggered causing clock oscillator, U7, to go from 2 sec. to .06 sec,/ step or about 1 sec. for full sweep. TBD, to be determined
any additional LEDs etc. If a strike is recorded, then the home run ckt. is inhibited.

 

Still peeking in from time to time so you might still be interested. Have you decided which circuit that you need parte for ?

 

Hi Bernard,

Appologies for the disappearing act... Been half term with my kids and its been very busy.

Defo still interested in doing this but not sure what you mean about choice of circuits ... Do I not just need to now get the parts for the sketches you made numbered 3 and 4 connect them all via a breadboard?

Cheers

 

I think most parts have bee identified except for resistors which come in packs of 50 or 100. Any suggestions ?
No time today.

 

Buyer beware, I've bee known to make mistakes. List is from CPC.

 

Bernard thank you I'll contact CPC and see if they can help me . .. How is it that your sketch 3 and sketch 4 join?

 

Buyer beware, I've bee known to make mistakes. List is from CPC.View attachment 153621

Hi

Suggestion...

Could replace the 74HC14's and 74HC08's with 74HC132's and reduce the chip count by 1 as well as the reduce the chip types?

SteadyHand4-AND gate "D" power pins connected backwards..

What is S and W on Steadyhand3?

Is there a power switch?
Bypass Caps?

BTW-I redrew your circuit but wont post unless you want me to..

eT

 

Thanks for the find on pin connections, eetech00. Looks like it would take 3- 74HC132's to replace 2 IC's & more connections?
W = bent wire . S = end of travel sensor- something like a washer isolated from W at end of W.
I would like to see your real schematic.
There is a switch in the battery box?

Connections between 3 & 4: power + & -, SW-1 to U6C-10 & R13 to U7-7
Two 555's could be replaced by one 556, but for me- not worth it.
Add another .22uF & a 5 uF across power leads of SH 4.

 

From CPC, NE555P, SC08618, $ .20, 4 ea.
Mouser on resistors has a minimum of 1.
240, 791-RC1/4-241JB, $ .28 , 2 ea.
560k, 791-RC1/4-564JB, $ 28,,2 ea.
10k, 791-RC1/4-103JB $ .292, 5 ea.
1M, 791-Rc1/4- 105JB, $ .292, 3 ea.
750, 791-RC1/4-751JB, $ .282, 5 ea.
680, 791-RC1/4-681JB, $ ..292, 16 ea.
360k, 791-RC1/4-364JB, $ .282, 2 ea.
I changed 1k to 750

 

74HC164 - clear ( reset ), is pin 9, not 7
Buzzer is surface mount but wires can be soldered on to plug into BB. For connecting wire I use telephone 24 ga. solid copper
with lots of different color combinations.

 

Thanks for the find on pin connections, eetech00. Looks like it would take 3- 74HC132's to replace 2 IC's & more connections?
W = bent wire . S = end of travel sensor- something like a washer isolated from W at end of W.
I would like to see your real schematic.
There is a switch in the battery box?

Connections between 3 & 4: power + & -, SW-1 to U6C-10 & R13 to U7-7
Two 555's could be replaced by one 556, but for me- not worth it.
Add another .22uF & a 5 uF across power leads of SH 4.

Hi Bernard,

Yes....I forgot there are 6 inverters in a package. :-|
Agreed on the 556

Attached is schematic. Graphics might be a little small but it looked great on my screen.
Please check...I can make it larger if necessary.

I did sim steady hand 4 and worked as you described.

eT

 

Looks great, just need some pin numbers & U's.
I may be looking at another goof, LED resistors seem large for 6V, might have been for original 9V, will check tomorrow.

 

Resistor values were based on battery operation @ about 5 mA but not very impressive with the green LEDs.
I would change 680 & 750 ohm Rs all to 390, & plan to use an AC adapter after testing & demonstrations..
I'll be out of touch until next week.