I'm guessing it's a Ford or one of the off shore brands.

2004 Buick Rendezvous

 

Another option that may work in tight spaces as long as you can use a heat gun...
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/7B384382-6A9F-42CA-A3ED-B6517709FB6F/?_encoding=UTF8&store_ref=SB_A06305042QEB55LE8SYJW&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=040da90ea460846b0b1ae8971d4b2b75&hsa_cr_id=2900520900001&lp_asins=B01M0EZBYQ,B089D5GD4Y,B089D79CPF&lp_query=heat shrink self-solder connectors&lp_slot=auto-sparkle-hsa-tetris&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_bkgd&pd_rd_w=1d95d&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a:amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&pf_rd_p=cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&pf_rd_r=T1486Z2J5QS0TKTDZCYA&pd_rd_wg=NyEoM&pd_rd_r=f5f29db2-587f-4ad9-82ff-91ad33836efd

No crimping needed!! They work best if you shrink the ends first and are able to roll them over for even heating. Don't use a torch or lighter as you will burn through, loose your solder, and have to start over.

Have you used these no-crimp, low-melting-point solder nugget butt splices?
If so, have you used them in a high heat environment like under a car's hood?
I'm curious because I've seen them sooooo many times on youtube (tired of seeing them, youtube, if you're listening) and they seem like they could be a huge time saver but I am not sold on the idea. I can't help thinking they won't deliver a consistent result (especially on wire that isn't brand new, freshly stripped bright copper) and I wonder just how far you have to keep it from the exhaust manifold so it doesn't re-melt the solder.

But the crimp ones Ya'akov recommended I can vouch for. You really need something like that, which has the glue-lined heat shrink.

 

With the heat shrink butt connectors it's very important to use the correct crimping tool. If it is too narrow it can pierce the heat shrink and allow moisture in. Its amazing how fast the connection is destroyed. If the crimp is not tight enough you can end up with a poor connection. I have done a lot of harness repair work, mostly on medium and heavy duty trucks.
These are my go to tools. The steel rule is there for perspective.

 

With the heat shrink butt connectors it's very important to use the correct crimping tool.
These are my go to tools. The steel rule is there for perspective.

Not the ideal crimper in my opinion, for reasons I gave in #8 & #15 !
Proper constant crimp pressure not guaranteed by the plier versions.

 

2004 Buick Rendezvous

I should, I guess, have qualified my earlier posting. The Rendezvous was a Mexican buid, and they used their own wiring and most other things. The GM I was talking about was the North American market stuff.

When working at Delphi, they had a department that was strictly to deal with terminals made in Mexico. They didn't meet the standards of the US Delphi, and when delivered by a truck got sent to that department. The brand new terminals still on a reel where fed into a scrap chopper and sent to a scrap yard. Silly way to run a company but they had an agreement that they had to buy them from down south, but nothing saying they had to use them!

 

Have you used these no-crimp, low-melting-point solder nugget butt splices?
If so, have you used them in a high heat environment like under a car's hood?
I'm curious because I've seen them sooooo many times on youtube (tired of seeing them, youtube, if you're listening) and they seem like they could be a huge time saver but I am not sold on the idea. I can't help thinking they won't deliver a consistent result (especially on wire that isn't brand new, freshly stripped bright copper) and I wonder just how far you have to keep it from the exhaust manifold so it doesn't re-melt the solder.

I'll have to admit I have never used them under the hood. Part of me wants to say they will be alright due to it does take a fair amount of heat to get the solder to melt as in if you aren't careful it will ruin the heat shrink before the solder melts. It most likely would be smart to keep them away from the exhaust. I never tried to reheat one myself, but wonder if there is some sort of chemical reaction that takes place to make the solder harder to remelt.

As far as dirty wire goes I have horrible memories!!! I guess I repressed those memories enough that it took your question to bring them back. There were a few times I had to cut a foot of wire on both sides of the break to get past the corrosion that seeped into the wire. It needs to be clean and a good coating of flux goes a long way. They didn't say anything about flux in the instructions I skimmed through, but personal experience says otherwise.

 

I strongly recommend these guys for automotive use. They heat shrink and are adhesive line, so watertight.

View attachment 301678​

I also strongly suggest that you invest in a ratchet type crimper with proper dies. I have this one which is an excellent value. The integrity of the connection is dependent on the crimp.

View attachment 301679​

Hi,

Oh that tool looks interesting, I have that very same tool, from Amazon. Yes, the price was right. I've used it a number of times already.
Seems to work ok, and the crimp pressure is adjustable with that little notched thing. When I first got mine some months ago, the crimp for #16 AWG was too loose so I had to adjust it. That's something to watch out for if the crimp is too loose the crimp may not work the way it should.

 

Hello again,

Just to note, you can also use what they call "Liquid Electrical Tape" to help seal the connections from moisture.
This stuff comes in various colors like red, blue, white, black. It comes in a small plastic jar with a brush attached to the screw on lid. You dip the brush in the solution and 'paint' the joints with it in a way that covers the entire connection. After that application I doubt anything is getting in there. Stays flexible too.

I hope you can fit a crimp tool in there.

 

Job done! The car is running fine, no error codes.

My SIL bought this crimper at Harbor Freight:
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-ratcheting-crimper-58325.html
They didn't have the cheaper one he went for and so sold him this one at the price of the lesser model, just $10! He tried to use my wire cutter shown earlier but it was too clumsy in tight quarters.

He also got one of these strippers to prepare the wires:
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...tripper/mf5070/p-12148367798117193-c-6455.htm

I forget which butt splice he went with but it's like that in #2. I think his have adhesive and heat shrink, probably not the solder blob.

I believe he wrapped everything in plastic sheathing to prevent a fresh attack. We'll see. I think I'd also do some trapping or other measures.

 

Klein make pretty good stuff also!

 

We crimp a bare butt, solder, then heat shrink. Pull back your harness for access. Can be a problem with bulk. Corroded wires that won’t take solder need replacing. Plastic looms take no heat so clear them out of the way.

 

How many wires need to be repaired?? And is there any slack available to make the repair??Crimp splices of any kind require at least working room to crimp, so there must be some slack available.
Is the wire harness tape wrapped? Are all of the wires chewed through? If only a few are damaged then often a bit of extra wire can be soldered on, covered with heat shrink, and then the other end soldered to the other section of the wire. Certainly it is very tedious but it can work. The crimp butt splices can be used in a similar manner but it is a serious challenge to get them right and have a reliable connection that will last in an engine compartment.

 

How many wires need to be repaired?? And...

Job done! The car is running fine, no error codes.

 

How many wires need to be repaired?? And is there any slack available to make the repair??Crimp splices of any kind require at least working room to crimp, so there must be some slack available.
Is the wire harness tape wrapped? Are all of the wires chewed through? If only a few are damaged then often a bit of extra wire can be soldered on, covered with heat shrink, and then the other end soldered to the other section of the wire. Certainly it is very tedious but it can work. The crimp butt splices can be used in a similar manner but it is a serious challenge to get them right and have a reliable connection that will last in an engine compartment.

I should have added that all the 10? breaks were within an inch or two of a multi-pin connector. We disconnected that and my SIL learned the technique for pushing the pin connectors out of the housing, so that he could solder on a ~1 foot piece of fresh wire and replace the pin. The opposite end of the harness passes through the firewall just inches away so there wasn't a lot of the original wires left to work with. But enough to strip and butt splice to the new wires.

 

If you have to do this again, you might consider these with some heatshrink that has adhesive:

 

If you have to do this again, you might consider these with some heatshrink that has adhesive:
View attachment 302099
View attachment 302100

Hi,

Looks good.

 

If you have to do this again, you might consider these with some heatshrink that has adhesive:
View attachment 302099
View attachment 302100

When I researched the price for the crimper for this style 15 years ago it was about $75.
And in bulk those connections are less than one cent each. (quantity 1000 pieces).