I installed three gauges in my Mini Cooper. Oil pressure, Boost/Vacuum, and water temperature. I used diagrams supplied by the manufacturer and added only a tachometer rpm switch and a magnetic pickup device that reads the pulses from the trigger wire on the one of the coils.
All the gauges and other electronics work. The light up, go to ZERO at start up and return to Zero when I shut the engine off. The problem gauge is the water temperature. It’s sender is located in the coolant line with the hottest water traveling to the top of the radiator after the thermostat.
The gauge does not read until the engine is hot. When the engine is at running temperature the gauge does not read consistently and in fact only reports accurately when the car s at idle in the garage after driving. Most of the time if if does read the temperature it is far below what my test gauge tells me the actual temperature is. I’ve tried at least four different senders, two gauges, two different connectors to the gauge itself, a test connection between the sender and the gauge...
All the electronics share a common ground as do the senders.
Any thoughts.
DR
All the gauges and other electronics work. The light up, go to ZERO at start up and return to Zero when I shut the engine off. The problem gauge is the water temperature. It’s sender is located in the coolant line with the hottest water traveling to the top of the radiator after the thermostat.
The gauge does not read until the engine is hot. When the engine is at running temperature the gauge does not read consistently and in fact only reports accurately when the car s at idle in the garage after driving. Most of the time if if does read the temperature it is far below what my test gauge tells me the actual temperature is. I’ve tried at least four different senders, two gauges, two different connectors to the gauge itself, a test connection between the sender and the gauge...
All the electronics share a common ground as do the senders.
Any thoughts.
DR