Attaching an E L Wire to a switch, what do I need to do please (basic schematic attached)

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
155
If the white one is also an LED strip rated for 12V, it should also have a converter. But, if you wire the red wires from both strips to the yellow wire and the black wires from both strips to the black wire, one converter will work.

The catch is that you are dimming the red strip with the pot and transistor. So instead of running the yellow wire to the red strip, it should go to the pot... where the red wire of the Ledberg goes now.

I’ll try to sketch it, but won’t be able to do so right away. If you put the converter between the Ledberg and it’s connections (to the terminal block?) it should work.
Red ledberg doesn't go to the pot. The wires have followed the schematic on post #134 page 7 so would need to know where the converter goes in relation.

I assume that doubling the wires to the converter doesn't double the load?
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
6,804
Red ledberg doesn't go to the pot. The wires have followed the schematic on post #134 page 7 so would need to know where the converter goes in relation.

I assume that doubling the wires to the converter doesn't double the load?
Take the red and black wires from the Ledberg and connect them to the converter.

Take the yellow and black wires from the converter and wire them to wherever the wires from the Ledberg were connected. Yellow to red; black to black.

No, the load shouldn’t double.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
155
Take the red and black wires from the Ledberg and connect them to the converter.

Take the yellow and black wires from the converter and wire them to wherever the wires from the Ledberg were connected. Yellow to red; black to black.

No, the load shouldn’t double.
Thanks, that's now clear as day. Sorry, that was probably obvious but I didn't get a wink of sleep last night so everything was extra difficult today. Report back tomorrow.
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,649
With tab & pin 7 on bottom, we can renumber SW pins, top, N, pin3, no connections, NW, pin 4, to TS1-1D - TS1-2D to +12V. W, pin5, TS1-1B- TS1-2B, + ,red White Light; pin 5 again, Q1 collector &
R1. Note that without R2, dimming will about last 1/3 of pot rotation.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
155
@Bernard @djsfantasi

I want to cry. I have definitely done something wrong. First thing, the white light is only coming on with the pot turned up. This shouldn't be the case, it should be coming on when I turn the Rotary Switch. Once turned, both lights now flash when I turn up the pot.

What I have done: All wiring has now been soldered to pins 4 and 5 (they are basically the same wiring only moved down a notch so it's exactly as the schematic says whereas it wasn't before schematic 7= my 3, 8= my 4 and 1= my 5).

I placed the converter where the LEDberg goes and put the wires for the red and white lights as per the schematic and this has been the result (both lights flashing).

I have put the power converter directly onto the white light, it is stable but the red light STILL flashes.

Any ideas? :-(
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
6,804
@Bernard @djsfantasi

I want to cry. I have definitely done something wrong. First thing, the white light is only coming on with the pot turned up. This shouldn't be the case, it should be coming on when I turn the Rotary Switch. Once turned, both lights now flash when I turn up the pot.

What I have done: All wiring has now been soldered to pins 4 and 5 (they are basically the same wiring only moved down a notch so it's exactly as the schematic says whereas it wasn't before schematic 7= my 3, 8= my 4 and 1= my 5).

I placed the converter where the LEDberg goes and put the wires for the red and white lights as per the schematic and this has been the result (both lights flashing).

I have put the power converter directly onto the white light, it is stable but the red light STILL flashes.

Any ideas? :-(
Can you update the sketch (schematic) showing the way it is wired now?
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
6,804
Hi ya.

literally the same except that 7, 8 and 1 is 3 4 and 5 on mine and where the Ledberg goes in is actually the converter. do I need to draw that? Or is that clear enough? :)
I would prefer that you draw it from your current wiring. That way, you may find where you made a mistake on you own, if you did make a mistake. Plus, it will confirm that what you think you did is actually what you did.
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,649
Pg. 10, # 189 seems to match Pg. 7, # 134.; time to practice V measurements on 20 V scale. I'll be back Wed.
 
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djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
6,804
TS1/2D connects you the power converter YELLOW wire, correct?

Can you sketch just the Ledberg and power converter wiring with the correct colors?
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
155
I shall go one better. The second image is clearer but the first confirms which lights are going where. I've since added a couple more pics to make it clearer.

Current problems, white light not coming on with rotary switch, both lights now flashing when POT is turned.

I will be getting another multimeter today as the one I have appears to be a dud, I can then take measurements of voltage.

The time distance affects us all, I was too tired to stay awake for messages yesterday, hope you enjoyed your nap and dinner :-D See you later Bernard! :)
 

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Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
155
Not sure how helpful this info is but just in case, got a new WORKING multimeter (Thank you @bertus for giving the info about the last one which helped with the new one). Voltage coming from arms of LEDBERG are all 23.9V with the converter it drops to 12.11V. Wondering if the red is sensitive and needs to be under 12V.

Is there any way to test what voltage the LED can cope with using the multimeter?
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,649
Lili, I made a list of all connections then checked them off against the photos- all agree. Soldering on Q1, C & E are close but can you slide a bit of paper between them ?
Measure the V on SW-4, +12 ? SW off - pin 3 = +12V ? SW on, pin 5 = +12V ? R1-center pin,
turning pot, V = 0 to +12V ? Q1-E, V = 0 to about + 10.5V on rotating pot. V should be steady at all positions of pot. if not Q1 might be defective. Wish you luck.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
155
Hi Bernard,

Not sure if I did the readings right or on the right setting. I put it to Volts AC. I was getting readings on the SW and pot but no stable numbers, jumping around all over the place usually on 5 point something.

The white light still only comes on when the pot is turned, it's not meant to do that, it should come on when the SW is turned. The white light is also stable but as I turn the pot it does go out a couple of times. The white light is now stable.
Yes can slide a bit of paper between them, just.
 

Thread Starter

TogetherInElectricDreams

Joined Jan 23, 2019
155
Just tested the lead that the red light is stable on and the voltage is 12.48DC but the converter is 12.11 and yet the red light still flashes. Why would that be? Lots of questions, not sure where the answers lay :-(
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
6,804
The multimeter should be set to DC Volts, not AC. The range should be the next higher one than 24.

Do you know how to measure current?
 
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