I now own one! We had a sunroom added on and the electrician advised me that these are now code. I'd never heard of them but they sound like a reasonable idea.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arc-fault_circuit_interrupter

Anyone here have comments on them? My electrician was not impressed and thinks they're probably a waste. He complained that they'll often trip when plugging in a load, such as a lamp. So his customers complain.

Question: These do not also include GFCI functionality, do they? I need to install some outdoor outlets that will be powered via that breaker. I'm guessing I'll need to address the GFCI separately?

 

These do not also include GFCI functionality

They do make a dual function breaker that includes both. I have 5 arc faults in my house and haven't had a problem yet in 2 years.
At this point it's probably less expensive to use a GFCI outlet.
SG

 

They do make a dual function breaker that includes both.

As I understand from the Wiki article, combination breakers became code in Jan-2008. I shouldn't need additional GFCI protection on that circuit.

 

They have been around for awhile. Something to note is while the NEC has adopted them they are not the rule or law in all US states. The building trades in some states argued against them. Here is the logic they applied. Using a common brand name like Square D Home Line.

Square D Homeline 20 Amp AFCI/GFCI $48.95
Square D Homeline 20 Amp GFCI $39.90.
Square D Homeline 20 Amp Circuit Breaker $3.94

A typical new construction residential home is now set up for 200 Amp Service with an entry panel accommodating 40 standard size breakers. The argument was how much the new ADCI/GFCI combination breakers would add to new construction cost. Personally I like them and they work and I advocate them especially in certain locations. One good example is canned lighting above, for example in a single level kitchen where the lights are surrounded by insulation material. Anyway, the individual states are not obliged to follow the NEC but most just use the NEC or sections of it rather than write their own code.

Recently my wife went to PA to see her cousin and her aunt who resides in PA. Her cousin was in PA visiting her mom and is from Phoenix AZ. Then came the phone call from her cousin's husband in AZ. Oh and by the way we had a house fire... Here he was sleeping awakened by a smoke detector which he always complained was too sensitive. So he gets out of bed and manages to silence it and I know not how. Well about 5 min later the thing is going off again so he thinks he now smells something, walks out in pouring rain only to see smoke and flames coming from his roof.

Damages placed at $100,000 and investigation revealed when electrical work was done a year or two ago a contractor left a live and stripped hot laying in the upper crawl space. It was supposed to go to an outlet buy laid exposed until it began to arc, not like a short to trip a breaker just some arcs and sparks and poof. My belief is an AFCI breaker would have prevented this.

Ron

 

My builder has confirmed that my new breaker is a combination type per NEC. So now I just have to figure out what sort of outlets to use for outdoor use. They don't need to gave GFCI built into them.

 

What ever type you decide on, the code for the cover has changed also. You must be able to close the cover with a cord plugged into it. You can no longer use the individual spring loaded covers. Something like this..https://www.lowes.com/pd/TayMac-1-Gang-Rectangle-Plastic-Weatherproof-Electrical-Box-Cover/50372928

 

My builder has confirmed that my new breaker is a combination type per NEC. So now I just have to figure out what sort of outlets to use for outdoor use. They don't need to gave GFCI built into them.

Use any outlets you wish as no, they do not need to be GFCI types. Also, and your choice, but when I put in outlets, switches or anything similar I buy and use the better quality stuff. Since all my branch circuits are AWG 12 I install quality 20 Amp service outlets I also like the link gerty posted, those are good stuff.

Ron

 

I poo-pooed AFCI until I had a situ where a circuit would trip when the laser printer engaged.
Turns out the MORONS used back stab push-n-pull wire attachment.
Back stab is what should be illegal. It's fine until you push the recep into the box.
All grip / contact force / area now gets violated -- What IDIOT thought this is a good idea ??

I had to pull and reattach all the receps to change the back stabs into screw downs.
No Problems since -- DOH. I'm now Way Ok on AFCI.
GFCI is different, I'm Big on them, I wouldn't be here if not for one ~27 years ago (another story).

I wonder if the AFCI proponents would have any traction if back stab was outlawed ??
When I was young (~BC) there was No back stab; Hmmmm

 

Turns out the MORONS used back stab push-n-pull wire attachment.
Back stab is what should be illegal. It's fine until you push the recep into the box.
All grip / contact force / area now gets violated -- What IDIOT thought this is a good idea ??

Funny as earlier when I mentioned good quality those damn things are exactly what I had in mind as what not to buy. Then too, a good demonstration of AFCI actually does work. I always disliked those things and using disliked is being nice.

Ron

 

I wonder if AFCI would have been invented if back stab were never allowed.

An AFCI can "nuisance" trip on plugging in a load that's already on.
It saw an arc, and did its job.

 

What ever type you decide on, the code for the cover has changed also. You must be able to close the cover with a cord plugged into it. You can no longer use the individual spring loaded covers. Something like this..https://www.lowes.com/pd/TayMac-1-Gang-Rectangle-Plastic-Weatherproof-Electrical-Box-Cover/50372928

Yep, that’s exactly what I’m looking at since my transformer will be plugged in continuously.

 

I'm wondering now what sort of weatherproof box I should get to mount the new receptacles in. The just-installed power cable looks like flexible metal conduit that is sheathed in a heavy black plastic. It's not in any sort of separate conduit. (I'll get a picture when it stops raining.) So I'm not sure what sort of box is used to get a good seal around the cable. I'll pop the cover off one of the boxes that are indoors - that should give me an idea.

Here's what I've got:

 

This is an example of the box you have in several flavors. If you scroll down you will see several options for use as covers and consider the "box" cover design mentioned previously. Your second image reflects what I commonly like to call Seal Tite or Liquid Tite. The latter comes in a wide range of diameters with a wide range of couplings or couplers. While I linked to McMaster Carr Supply most, if not all of this stuff can be had at any home improvement store like Lowes or Home Depot.

Ron

 

This is an example of the box you have in several flavors. If you scroll down you will see several options for use as covers and consider the "box" cover design mentioned previously. Your second image reflects what I commonly like to call Seal Tite or Liquid Tite. The latter comes in a wide range of diameters with a wide range of couplings or couplers. While I linked to McMaster Carr Supply most, if not all of this stuff can be had at any home improvement store like Lowes or Home Depot.

Ron

I can't seem to find flexible conduit with the wires already inside. I didn't see my electrician pulling any wire but it's possible I just missed it. Also, my box openings measure 3/4" and the conduit looks to be roughly 1/2". Does that mean I need conduit labeled 1/2" or should it be called 3/4", so that it fits in the hole?

 

Size depends on a lot of stuff, unfortunately. http://infocomm.org/filestore/av-math-online/groups/62.html

 

Size depends on a lot of stuff, unfortunately. http://infocomm.org/filestore/av-math-online/groups/62.html

I've ordered most of what I need from Amazon but I'll buy the "glands" locally where I can eyeball the parts. Online descriptions completely gloss over the topic. My conduit is 1/2" and the holes in my boxes are 3/4" (both actual, not nominal measurements). So I have no idea what to call the appropriate connector, but I'm hoping I can find them in the local stores.

 

I can't seem to find flexible conduit with the wires already inside. I didn't see my electrician pulling any wire but it's possible I just missed it. Also, my box openings measure 3/4" and the conduit looks to be roughly 1/2". Does that mean I need conduit labeled 1/2" or should it be called 3/4", so that it fits in the hole?

They make it in 1/2" 3/4" 1.0" and up. I have used it in 3" so I don't know the upper limit. The box you showed a picture of has the threaded holes and again those boxes come in 1/2" and 3/4" holes with holes also in different locations like single, double etc like in the links I posted. I have never seen sealtite or liquidtite pre wired. I normally pull AWG 12 THWN for outdoor use. You would run 3 conductors, black is hot, white is neutral and green is ground. Your electrician should have pulled the wire through it. I can't imagine a run less the wire, that would be strange. It would also be strange if they ran 1/2" to a 3/4" box. The link I provided shows the different connectors used with sealtite or liquidtite. You can also go from 1/2" to 3/4" using couplings that size up or down.

Locally I get my stuff at Lowes or Home Depot.

Ron

 

Those boxes are usually NPT threads: https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/taper-pipe-threads.htm

NPT is National Pipe Tapered. NPS is National Pipe Straight,

Your dimensions correlate to 1/2" with a PD of ~3/4".

@Reloadron
yep, they do make sealtite "whips" See https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-6-34-6-3-4-x-6-Conduit-Kit-Metallic-Connectors

For Air conditioning installs, you can generally get a kit containing the whip and a bunch of parts.

I saw these on a Home Depot Site too.

Your post #12 also seems to show "tamper proof" outlets. Note that there is a blank off inside of the the actual sockets on the receptacle. You have to push both side in to be able to insert a plug. these keep children from inserting stuff into one side of the outlet unless you have one really smart kid.

So, for pipe, you have a size and a "schedule": Seee: https://www.benjaminsteel.com/resources/pipe-size-chart

With tubing, the ID is pretty close to the nominal size: https://www.petersenproducts.com/Copper-Tubing-Sizes-s/1979.htm

There's a catch though: if you buy a 7/8" copper elbow at an HVAC supply store, it will be identical to a 3/4 copper elbow used copper plumbing.

Tubing has another catch too. Copper refrigeration tubing has a different OD than plain copper tubing.

It's a real mess. recently, I found out that eyeglass screws bought as eyeglass screws no matter if they are pan or flat head they are sold by overall length UNLESS you get them from the company that actually makes the screws.

Then RED is always negative in the thermocouple world.

Now, I've been buying bandages and even that's starting to get on my nerves. A 3/4 x 3" typical band-aid for a cut isn't wound size.

Quirks, quirks and more quirks!!

 

Your dimensions correlate to 1/2" with a PD of ~3/4".

Nuts, I suspect you're right and it's exactly what I feared. That means I ordered the wrong boxes and they'll have huge gaping holes. More time standing in the hardware store looking for a way to fit it all together. On the other hand, I haven't bought the conduit yet. I suppose using 3/4" conduit would solve some issues and make it that much easier to pull the wires.

 

If you thought conduit = conduit, wrong again: http://www.falsonsupply.com/catalog/123fs.pdf