I keep several outdated Settop boxes for spare parts (connectors, switches ...). They all have IR remotes which I do not know if they can be re-used to power on other devices. If I can build a DIY box that connects output leads from the IR receiver circuit to a 120V (or 5V) power supply, I can use the IR remote to power on and off any devices that plug into the power supply. I know it is not easy to unsolder anything from the board. I don't mind having the entire board inside my DIY box. But I don't know where to look.

 

hi hw,
There are small circuits using the Arduino that can read, decode and display on the serial port the codes for each push switch on the remote.
You can then design a controlled unit to recognise the individual code commands

E

 

I don't recall where I saw it but I've seen a very simple circuit using the IR receiver as a remote switch. The thing about a receiver is that it has to discriminate between an ON signal and an OFF signal. OR it has to flip-flop ON and OFF with each command. Since TV remotes (as an example) can output many different coded pulses to use it for something more like ON/OFF; Channel Select, Volume Control etc. you're going to need a processor. Simple is not so simple in that case. As for the circuit I've seen (simple as it may be) I think I found it on AAC. But that would have been 3 or more years ago.

 

In my mind - the mind of a lunatic - I imagine IR being all around; especially during the day. Stray IR could trigger a circuit when it's not desired - OR a strong IR field can cause the circuit to not respond on command. What I mean is that if the sensor takes (making up BS now) 100 lumens of IR for a clear signal and the room is awash with 95 lumens then the circuit won't respond. Not unless there's some sort of filtration to filter out the constant IR in favor of the pulsating IR signal. Again, I know not what I'm speaking of - just offering food for thought.

 

The IR remote can power on/off the box now. So there is no problem with the IR code pairing or the deciphering of the signal. The board uses a 5V external adapter. There must be an output lead from the IR receiver circuitry which switches on the incoming 5V to the circuit board. I am just wondering how easy it is to find that output lead. There is a SMART IC next to the receiver. Will the lead that I am looking for from that IC.

 

hi Tonyr,
The detectors are usually AC coupled so that they can detect IR pulses, from the ambient IR.

Direct Sunlight can swamp the detectors.

E

 

I am just wondering how easy it is to find that output lead.

Show the complete board.
I see something at the bottom of the photo that looks like a heat sink.

 

Curios observation: I have a stereo with IR Remote Control. Every once in a while it will ramp the volume all the way up in steps. So it's not a short circuit, it's some stray set of IR pulses that the stereo is thinking it's receiving command to raise the volume. It has never lowered the volume or changed the programming, just Vol. Up.

So I'm not seeking a solution to this "thing" just making the observation that somehow - and I don't know this for certain - there's an IR pulse that makes the stereo want to blast the volume. I think it happened when the sun was shining and a car drove past causing a reflection of the sun into my room. At the same time the pickets in the porch acted as an IR Interrupter making the stereo see a set of pulsed IR causing the stereo to increase the volume. Again, I'm not looking for a solution - the stereo is now in the basement in the family room with no windows.

Just an observation.

 

Show the complete board.I see something at the bottom of the photo that looks like a heat sink.

What is under the heat sink is probably the CPU. I just got an idea. The simpliest way may be using the 5V output of the USB port to pick a relay to switch on the DIY box. I will check if the 5V on the USB port already exist (some box has hot USB port as soon as it is plugged in) before power on.

 

HW user, what calibre? (Off topic).

 

Unfortunately, the USB ports are hot as soon as the box is plugged in. The IR remote has no impact on the USB 5V. So is pin 18 of the HDMI port. I cannot use those pins to control my DIY box. I will keep looking to see if there is any pin that becomes hot when the board is powered on by the IR remote.