The four pole double throw relays I suggest are the much cheaper, non-sealed, versions of the P&B KHS17 series. Interchangeable and they do not really need those very expensive sockets. There are also some much cheaper multipole relays that have a goofy connection arrangement, I recommend avoiding them completely.
Those very nice VERY expensive screw terminal sockets are made for use in control panels, a different world from automotive in every aspect.

 

The four pole double throw relays I suggest are the much cheaper, non-sealed, versions of the P&B KHS17 series. Interchangeable and they do not really need those very expensive sockets. There are also some much cheaper multipole relays that have a goofy connection arrangement, I recommend avoiding them completely.
Those very nice VERY expensive screw terminal sockets are made for use in control panels, a different world from automotive in every aspect.

I would perhaps even go solid state.

 

Solid state logic for this would be simple and cheap for some of us, with on processor or programming needed. But the challenge is in producing a rugged assembly that will last in the physical realm of in a car that is driven.

 

Those very nice VERY expensive screw terminal sockets are made for use in control panels, a different world from automotive in every aspect.

I appreciate every word you write, I am looking all this stuff up.

I have some of those screw terminals, leftover from working in building controls and a lot of the stuff I used on this build came from building systems and controls. Was a millwright for 16 years and installed controls for 3 years, over the years I gathered lots of cool stuff out of buildings.

The industrial building stuff is (was) better quality than automotive stuff, the old pneumatic stuff lasted for ever, the new electronic controls stuff it gets replaced with is absolute garbage, Johnson electronic controls stuff 10 years ago was well built.

Not in every aspect, a lot of the stuff on this car came from buildings, the previous version of this car was a no budget build, this build got expensive parts I had for other car builds and lots of time and efforts, I would say in the last 5years of building this car I spent 2000$ cad.

As much as everything isn't universal everything is universal if you figure out how to use it.
The cars water meth system is/was all industrial building salvage.
I purchased the air pump and tank level sensor (110$ cnd) everything else .


Solenoid control box:


new control pressure switches:


System



Jet airplane fittings salvaged for all boost/vacuum systems


Modified controls temp gauge + sensor used for intake air temps just before the throttle body


There is a long list of other stuff on this car that isn't automotive, when I pulled crap from buildings I asked myself can I use it on a car.

The air pump that pressurizes the system.



The solenoid valves and misting nozzles are building salvage, the old system ran 6 nozzles at 66psi, the liquid pressure is adjustable, the compressor is set from 90 to 120psi, the nozzles deliver 1cc per psi so 396cc at 66psi, delivery is completely adjustable (unlike kits that require different cc nozzles), the air pump runs 15seconds every couple days (unlike sureflow pumps that run the whole time the kit is active) it fills a 15" tire in 30 seconds, flows the same CFM as entry level air suspension pumps at half the cost, 20 minute on cycle.

The system is currently adjustable from 200 to 540cc but if I up the base pressure beyond 90psi or add the 3rd solenoid and more nozzles the system will run from 300 to 810cc.
I have an aquamist water/meth injection system on one of the 2door versions of this car, it is electronically controlled with numerous failsaves one of the top rated systems, the air system kicks the crap out of the aquamist system, stomps it's face and kicks the crap out of it again after it gets out of the hospital.

Industrial building boring as crap junk can do fun stuff in cars.


.

 

The cold hard reality is that the masses in modern day society, the law abiding, rule following, go to work everyday, pay taxes and have kids majority of population on this planet, conditioned to consume and simply exist are the actual epitome of evil.

Such a rebel. I hope you figure it out, but solid state would have been easier. With the skill and willingness to put what you have put together, couldn't you just prototype the section of the circuit on a breadboard and figure it out? Thats what I would do, because we're still talking about leds, right? Also, your jet plane fittings are just run of the mill AN fittings. In any case, prototype a solution and show us what works.

 

Certainly the same logic as described in the early posts could be implemented with very basic CMOS ICs, AND, OR, and a few inverters, all operating with 12 volt logic,, which improves noise resistance. Driving the LEDs would have been simple as well.
The challenge would be in the packaging, and driving those cube relays to handle the power interfaces. Under the hood you would need the higher temperature range devices that cost more, but are OK from minus 40 degrees to plus 125 C. And if you ever drive in rain the box needs to be waterproof.

My comment about the relay sockets was that they are so very large, bigger than the relays that plug into them. Also, I am not convinced that screw terminals are best in a car that is driven. (Show cars might not be driven cars, sometimes.)

 

Such a rebel.

Does it require rebellion to take a step back from worrying about the things that inconvenience society and look at society's collective effect on the world?

Also, your jet plane fittings are just run of the mill AN fittings.

Aeronautical-Navy (A-N) fittings are just higher end JIC 37 fittings.
So in comparison to jic 37, expensive A-N fittings aren't run of the mill, these ones are Eaton Aeroquip fitting but the important thing is they where free.

couldn't you just prototype the section of the circuit on a breadboard and figure it out?

Yes, since posting here I have searched for one I used to have and looked for one at a good price online, well they are all good priced, it's the shipping that's the problem, I am in Canada, often you put a 5$ usd item in a cart and get a shipping quote of 25$ usd, after customs, taxes, exchange rate and bank fees your 5$ item cost 44.50$ cnd.

I do need a bread board to experiment with, that's why I find electronics and programming so difficult to pick up without any practice, mechanical stuff is easier, look it up, read it's description, design, assemble and use. Provided you designed properly, there is no trial and error or bench testing required. Then why was the water injection system in a bucket, I was testing for fitting and weld leaks.

I came across a knock off arduino starter set that comes with a bread board, it's 44.99$cad with free shipping from amazon, I am tempted to order it but worry I will regret it the next time I can't afford food.

 

My comment about the relay sockets was that they are so very large, bigger than the relays that plug into them. Also, I am not convinced that screw terminals are best in a car that is driven. (Show cars might not be driven cars, sometimes.)

That I very much agree on, I had pondered using them for other warning lights, factory cluster lights that aren't used on this trim, I pined them out at the connector, the problem is these lights are common ground, switched positive. All my system's switched signals are ground, though about using these relays to send positive signals to the dash bulbs, but the screw terminals worried me, the car runs poly engine bushings and without taking precautions will rattle every bolt and nut loose.

I have been looking into how to draw out proper circuit schematic or commented ladder diagram like you mentioned, funny I drew out my diagrams as idiot reminder diagrams so I can understand/remember what the heck I was thinking and anyone who can pinout and wire an automotive relay can understand. (these aren't the wiring diagrams).

Since I posted this diode question, every time I sit in traffic I think there is something I am missing, this can work without the diode or any added relay's.

I know this isn't right but draw IO doesn't have all the symbols


The issue is that in the stage1 toggle switch position, whenever the car is put in 1st gear the magnet will close the circuit of the hall sensor and ground signal will be sent to the launch LED.
At the drag track having the launch led light up when stage 1 is selected and the car is in 1st gear would/could lead to believe launch is selected and then stage 2 and stage 3 would be locked out until the toggle was switched.

The Diode is to supply power to the Stage 1 LED when launch setting is selected but not to supply power to the Launch LED when stage 1 is selected.

The 3way toggle switch has 6pins, I connected 6 wires and a 6pin connector to it, the problem with the set-up is that I wanted to use all 6 pins in my design (don't ask me why).
The solution is simple, don't use the 3way toggle stage 1 DC 12V out pin.



I knew I was missing something simple and it kept bothering me, last night before bed it dawned on me.

Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems the lights will work as intended, when Stage 1 toggle position is selected the launch LED gets no + 12V signal and no possible flickering. When Launch is selected, Stage 1 LED will light only in first gear (when the hall sensor is closed circuit).
Conflict resolved ?.

 

If you use the multi-pole relays then the circuit to operate the coil can be totally isolated from the logic portion, and it will not matter if the signal input is switched positive or switched negative or normally on or normally off. That freedom is simple when the contact logic can be totally separated from the contacts logic.. And relays are much less likely to be zapped by a transient spike then most solid state logic devices.

 

That I very much agree on, I had pondered using them for other warning lights, factory cluster lights that aren't used on this trim, I pined them out at the connector, the problem is these lights are common ground, switched positive. All my system's switched signals are ground, though about using these relays to send positive signals to the dash bulbs, but the screw terminals worried me, the car runs poly engine bushings and without taking precautions will rattle every bolt and nut loose.

I have been looking into how to draw out proper circuit schematic or commented ladder diagram like you mentioned, funny I drew out my diagrams as idiot reminder diagrams so I can understand/remember what the heck I was thinking and anyone who can pinout and wire an automotive relay can understand. (these aren't the wiring diagrams).

Since I posted this diode question, every time I sit in traffic I think there is something I am missing, this can work without the diode or any added relay's.

I know this isn't right but draw IO doesn't have all the symbols
View attachment 306838

The issue is that in the stage1 toggle switch position, whenever the car is put in 1st gear the magnet will close the circuit of the hall sensor and ground signal will be sent to the launch LED.
At the drag track having the launch led light up when stage 1 is selected and the car is in 1st gear would/could lead to believe launch is selected and then stage 2 and stage 3 would be locked out until the toggle was switched.

The Diode is to supply power to the Stage 1 LED when launch setting is selected but not to supply power to the Launch LED when stage 1 is selected.

The 3way toggle switch has 6pins, I connected 6 wires and a 6pin connector to it, the problem with the set-up is that I wanted to use all 6 pins in my design (don't ask me why).
The solution is simple, don't use the 3way toggle stage 1 DC 12V out pin.

View attachment 306840

I knew I was missing something simple and it kept bothering me, last night before bed it dawned on me.

Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems the lights will work as intended, when Stage 1 toggle position is selected the launch LED gets no + 12V signal and no possible flickering. When Launch is selected, Stage 1 LED will light only in first gear (when the hall sensor is closed circuit).
Conflict resolved ?.

That would do what you wanted, so issue resolved. Also calling everyone useless eaters and automatons probably isnt the best way to get help and is way into politics and way off powering leds. Those "automatons" are the reason I have a R&D job at Emerson, and they feed most of the techs and engineers in the electronics industry. Some of the things like expensive parts and fittings may seem pretty high speed to some are mundane to others. Anyways, enough e-peen measuring. I really hope your project works out.