i purchased diy kit flashing led i assembled and soldered all on

here is a google picture

as u can se the 6 leg ic this gets to hot even i dont connect nothing to it only the power , if i get the ic out the board is normal and cool what is going on, its a kit that makes led flash .

 

as u can se the 6 leg ic this gets to hot even i dont connect nothing to it only the power , if i get the ic out the board is normal and cool what is going on, its a kit that makes led flash .

I don't see any 6-legged IC. I see an 8-legged IC and a 16-legged IC, but no 6-legged IC.
What is going on? Obviously, you messed something up, that's what.

What that might be, we cannot even begin to guess. Poor soldering? Parts mixed up? Part(s) installed backwards? Wrong power supply voltage? Wiring mistake? Power supply connected backwards? Who the heck knows? You didn't post any of the technical documentation for this thing (like a schematic diagram & parts list), nor even a link to the web site you got it from, so all any of us can do is make wild guesses in the dark.

And by forcing us to make wild guesses in the dark, you're just wasting our time.

 

sorry i mean the 8 leg ic.
using 11.1v battery.

at first the 8 leg 555 ic started to smoke and then the ic went bad , and i have other 555ic but it is not programmed to flash the led it is programmed to do something else.

even i insert those non programmed flashing 555 ic it stil gets warm.

 

Bad 555 or you soldered (socket) it in reverse.

Keep in mind that 555 is not programmable. It's just a timer chip.

 

What happened to R5, couldn't you make it fit?

I suspect the (a) problem is on the solder side of the board.

You ask a lot of questions without apparently making any attempt to engage your brain and answer them yourself. Is it easier for you to start a new thread on AAC than to carefully inspect your work or read a datasheet? If you had been bothered to do that you wouldn't be talking about a "programmed" and "non programmed" 555.

 

What you have is a 555 oscillator driving a CD4017 Johnson counter, and the outputs are combined to drive three LEDs in a pattern. The 555 should not even get warm under any conditions, so you have a wiring error, component error, 555 in backwards, etc.

Link to the kit - ???

ak

 

link to the kit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cd4017-Ne555-Kit-Detonation-Flash-Light-12V-New-Ic-F-/112365373859?

i checked and my solder is fine to be honest otherwise il tell u.
il post a pic again of the back side.

as u seen i fitted the components on the right way , the r5 is fitted and soldered it just got bent i left it as it is.
as most of you say 555 should not heat ,thats what am thinking why is it heating.

now that the 555 ic is gone bad i toook it out and now if i turn the board on nothing over heats lights come on but dont flash , the reason it dont blink its because no 555ic installed.

i have other 555 ic's here when i seat them up it gets heated up i dont let it heat up to much otherwise they wil get damged to am thinking where the probelm is.

can it be the small capacitor or the small 104 ceramic capacitor

 

Schematic here....

http://www.winddeal.net/image/29725/29725-7.jpg

If everything looks ok, pull the ICs out and use a meter to check each pin connects where it should and there are no short-circuits.

 

Thanks, now if we could only get a pic of the solder side of his board...

 

as u can se the 6 leg ic this gets to hot even i dont connect nothing to it only the power , if i get the ic out the board is normal and cool what is going on, its a kit that makes led flash .

"As you can see, the 6 legged IC gets too hot. Even if I don't connect anything to it, only power. If I get the IC out, the board is normal and cool.

What is going on?

It's a kit that makes led flash."

Please refrain from using text speak and use proper sentence structure. It will make your posts easier to read and increase your perceived IQ.

 

Here is snapshot of back of my board and soldering

 

Hello there

You've had some great answers already but is this solder bridging your Vcc/Reset and Threshold pins? (pin 8/4 and 6)

 

Is the circled pin supposed to be pin 8 or 4?


Is that socket hacked up? Or did you mangle it while soldering?

You need to get some needlenose pliers and a lead former to neaten up the components. If you start by soldering the shortest components first, you can use your finger to hold components in place instead of bending leads. Check the leads you've bent over to make sure that they didn't pierce the solder mask.

 

the circle u marked is pin 4 sir.

Is that socket hacked up? Or did you mangle it while soldering?
this maybe happen due to inserting the chip but i checked with meter their was no short.

what i dont get is if i leave this socket emty then the board works fine.
but if i insert the 8 leg chip which i have spared but they dont blink i dont know why they tend to heat up ,i end up turning it off before they end up burning out

capacitor is 50v 1uF

 

the circle u marked is pin 4 sir.

You're inserting the timer wrong. That's supposed to be pin 8 and is connected to VCC.
EDIT: It is pin 4 as noted twice below...

 

hi thanks for the reply.

am aligning the ic marker the top middle curv with the bord markings ?.
if u can se the images i posted above can u check and re-confirm if i done it right or wrong.

 

ok.

i switched the 555 timer other way around and it dont seem to heat up.
but what i don't get is the marking on the ic chip in middle the round bend and the marking on the clip and the board shows it goes in that direction. but i turned the ic head oposite way around and its not heating up at all.

as u can se the marking on the 8 leg ic on this demo image of some one else

i found NE5532N inserted it both ways around and its not over-heating but its not NE555 ic.

i may need to find ne555 ic and check

 

You're inserting the timer wrong. That's supposed to be pin 8 and is connected to VCC.

That looks like pin 4 to me. If you look closely at the underside of the board, both IC's pin 1 are indicated by the conventional square land pattern. That would make the notches for both go in the same direction - the notch is the semi-circle at the edge of the chip. The round divot is just a molding artifact. Counting pins on both packages from the square pin 1, you see that the 555 pin 3 (output) is connected to the 4017 pin 14 (clock input). That is what you would expect in this circuit. The image in post #17 looks right.

 

You're inserting the timer wrong. That's supposed to be pin 8 and is connected to VCC.

No, that is pin 4 connected to Vcc. The next pin is pin 3 connected to 4017 pin 14.

ak

 

That looks like pin 4 to me.

No, that is pin 4 connected to Vcc.

Mea culpa. I should have made note that reset would likely also be connected to VCC...

+1 for the merits of peer review...