Hello All,
I just joined the site. After visiting 50+ sites, I stopped here after reading the wealth of knowledge from community members. I hope to frequent and have many posts and comments in the future. I have a background as a store manager at Radio Shack for 8 years, and car stereo industry for 15 years. Remote starters, stereo systems, etc. I have a knowledge in building relays, resisters, diodes, etc. I am hoping I can contribute in the future to the community.
I read a number of the posts and responses before starting my own thread, not to hi-jack a previous post.
I am needing some help with an LED diagram for a small project. I am building an underwater LED transom (Boat) mounted light. I have seen dozens of these all of the internet, for $500 to over $1,000 each. Ridiculous when you consider the materials to build one yourself. I've spent the last 3 months researching the type of enclosure and materials and making my purchases across the globe to be shipped in.
GOAL: Build two 24 LED (72 watt) transom light in GREEN and two more in BLUE. Optical grade epoxy potting, encapsulating the LED's and all connections for waterproofing. Large block corrosion resistant heatsink + thermal paste for heat dissipation. 30 foot Teflon coated wire to switch, battery terminal.
This gentleman at loomisLED has created exactly what I hope to accomplish. He states he is an MIT graduate, with 25 years of experience. He states his light has no special drivers or components, but driven only by the length of the wire (35 ft). 30,000 hours of life on the LED's. He hand builds these lights in his workshop and sells to the public. The light cannot be run out of the water for more than 4 minutes, for cooling purposes. Claims it has been tested in 100 degree salt water.
http://loomisled.com/shop/2-24-led-flush-mount-boat-transom-lights-12-14-5-vdc-charging-battery/
THE PROBLEM: As you all know, voltage on a boat/auto can fluctuate from 11.4V to 13.5V when the engine is running, alternator charging the battery. I like the idea of no components, the enclosure will be completely sealed and encapsulated with no access to components. Should a resister burn out, or voltage regulator fail, I would be destroying the sealed enclosure to replace the failed component.
I would like to wire 3 rows of 8 on the circuit, similar to the picture of the example above. I have read some of the posts by SgtWookie recommending the Buckpuck.
The LED Specs are as follows:
3w:
700mA
green:DC Forward Voltage:3.4V~3.8V Forward Current: 600-700mA
blue:DC Forward Voltage:3.6V~3.8V Forward Current: 600-700mA
Green 510~530 nw
Blue 460~475 nw
Any input or recommendations to my build would be much appreciated. I hope to post pictures of the progress. Maybe the project build can earn a "Sticky" later
I just joined the site. After visiting 50+ sites, I stopped here after reading the wealth of knowledge from community members. I hope to frequent and have many posts and comments in the future. I have a background as a store manager at Radio Shack for 8 years, and car stereo industry for 15 years. Remote starters, stereo systems, etc. I have a knowledge in building relays, resisters, diodes, etc. I am hoping I can contribute in the future to the community.
I read a number of the posts and responses before starting my own thread, not to hi-jack a previous post.
I am needing some help with an LED diagram for a small project. I am building an underwater LED transom (Boat) mounted light. I have seen dozens of these all of the internet, for $500 to over $1,000 each. Ridiculous when you consider the materials to build one yourself. I've spent the last 3 months researching the type of enclosure and materials and making my purchases across the globe to be shipped in.
GOAL: Build two 24 LED (72 watt) transom light in GREEN and two more in BLUE. Optical grade epoxy potting, encapsulating the LED's and all connections for waterproofing. Large block corrosion resistant heatsink + thermal paste for heat dissipation. 30 foot Teflon coated wire to switch, battery terminal.
This gentleman at loomisLED has created exactly what I hope to accomplish. He states he is an MIT graduate, with 25 years of experience. He states his light has no special drivers or components, but driven only by the length of the wire (35 ft). 30,000 hours of life on the LED's. He hand builds these lights in his workshop and sells to the public. The light cannot be run out of the water for more than 4 minutes, for cooling purposes. Claims it has been tested in 100 degree salt water.
http://loomisled.com/shop/2-24-led-flush-mount-boat-transom-lights-12-14-5-vdc-charging-battery/
THE PROBLEM: As you all know, voltage on a boat/auto can fluctuate from 11.4V to 13.5V when the engine is running, alternator charging the battery. I like the idea of no components, the enclosure will be completely sealed and encapsulated with no access to components. Should a resister burn out, or voltage regulator fail, I would be destroying the sealed enclosure to replace the failed component.
I would like to wire 3 rows of 8 on the circuit, similar to the picture of the example above. I have read some of the posts by SgtWookie recommending the Buckpuck.
The LED Specs are as follows:
3w:
700mA
green:DC Forward Voltage:3.4V~3.8V Forward Current: 600-700mA
blue:DC Forward Voltage:3.6V~3.8V Forward Current: 600-700mA
Green 510~530 nw
Blue 460~475 nw
Any input or recommendations to my build would be much appreciated. I hope to post pictures of the progress. Maybe the project build can earn a "Sticky" later