230VAC single phase motor - what happens if on 115VAC?

Thread Starter

ThePanMan

Joined Mar 13, 2020
705
I have this motor.
1695598707262.png
It comes out of a dust collector system, single stage separator. The impeller has been absolutely destroyed so I don't even know if I'll have a use for it. The single stage separator - that I can use on my surface plainer. That's beside the point.

Id like to know if running the motor on 115VAC is a bad idea. I don't know if I can expect the same RPM's but I'm confident I will not see 2 HP. IF I run it on 115VAC what can I expect for numbers?

By the way - the whole unit was poorly cared for. Seems like it may have been used to vacuum out a fire pit or fire place or something. Maybe even from a crematorium. I've never seen human remains cremated so I don't know. The unit has been cleaned up quite a bit and I could rebuild the blower housing (rust in some areas) and put it back into service as a dust separator (saw dust that is) (sit a while) (take your shoes off) (y'all come back now, y'hear?)
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,127
Can the motor be rewired to operate at 115VAC?

This is what Bing's AI says:
"Running a 230V motor on 115V can have several risks. The motor may not run at its full capacity and may not be able to generate enough power to perform its intended function. This can lead to overheating, reduced efficiency, and increased wear and tear on the motor. Additionally, running a motor at a lower voltage than its rated voltage can cause it to draw more current, which can result in damage to the motor or the electrical system it is connected to. It is generally recommended to use a motor with the correct voltage rating for the power supply it will be connected to.

Please note that these are general risks associated with running a motor at a lower voltage than its rated voltage. The specific risks and consequences may vary depending on the motor’s design, construction, and intended use. It is always best to consult the motor’s manufacturer or a qualified electrician for specific guidance and recommendations."
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
16,534
The motor may start and run on 120 volts instead of 240 volts. But the performance will be rather poor. The power will at best be a quarter of what is claimed for 230 volt operation.
Given that we have not been provided with any information about the internal wiring of the motor any suggestions for changing connections will be a random guess.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,030
If you are in N.A., don't you have 240V available?
You would be better off running a suitable outlet or run off a dryer outlet etc.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
16,534
My secret trick for having 240 volts available in a shop area is to have an outlet box with two duplex 120 volt outlets fed by different breakers on opposite phases. Not only does that provide four outlets, but by using two plugs to connect to the hot side on adjacent outlets, plus the safety ground, 240 volts is available with no wiring change and no special 240 volt outlet unavailable for anything else. The safety benefit is that an unknowing person plugging into any one single outlet gets normal 120 volt service in a safe, code passing, manner. Any connection to any single outlet is completely standard.
 

Thread Starter

ThePanMan

Joined Mar 13, 2020
705
Can the motor be rewired to operate at 115VAC?
Coming out of the motor are Black, and White wires connected to the double switch. Also coming out of the motor are two black wires going to a capacitor, and two blue wires also going to another capacitor. Without tearing further into the motor my first guess is that it can not be wired for 115VAC.
we have not been provided with any information about the internal wiring of the motor
In reply to DL324, that's the only wiring I have access to. Again, I have not tried to go further into the motor.
If you are in N.A., don't you have 240V available?
You would be better off running a suitable outlet or run off a dryer outlet etc.
I do have 240V available. See below for further explanation of the situation:
My secret trick for having 240 volts available in a shop area is to have an outlet box with two duplex 120 volt outlets fed by different breakers on opposite phases.
Been there, done that. But it's not a safe practice. Yeah, you can do it and get away with it but I'd rather have a dedicated 240 outlet.

OK, FIRST; here's what this thing is: It's a motor out of a single stage dust collector similar to THIS one. The impeller has been shattered and the fan shroud has suffered damage as well.

SECOND; I don't know if it's worth rebuilding this one as I don't directly have a use for it. But when I hooked the motor briefly to 115VAC it did run, so I'd say the motor is in decent shape. But as yet I don't have a purpose for it. I may sell it, knowing that it runs. But it will need a 240 plug.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
16,534
OK, a motor with no present application for the owner, running on a voltage not conveniently available for the owner, STARTS AND RUNS ON 120 VOLTS. but it is a 240 volt motor.
Selling it based on the fact that it starts and runs is the best choice.
The label claims 2 Horsepower, 3450 RPM. Really not a useful motor for many applications except for a blower.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
16,534
----> https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/underpowering-motor.195079/

It has been running for a while now. Am happy, the motor is happy.
Like I stated much earlier: The motor will probably start and run on 120 volts. And as I stated much earlier: it will not be able to deliver even a quarter of the rated power. So if the motor is connected to 120 volts and running with no load, sell it, unless you have a use for it and are able to supply the correct voltage.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
16,534
Why would you say such a thing? My belt sander, drill press and one small lathe all have 3450 RPM motors. And they aren't any where near the 2HP, most are 1/2 or 3/4 HP.
EXACTLY MY POINT!! 2HP is more than the standard rating for most shop tool motors. Really not a useful motor for many applications, except for a blower. A lot more power than required, hence less useful.
But if you like to use way more power than required, go ahead.
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,038
EXACTLY MY POINT!! 2HP is more than the standard rating for most shop tool motors. Really not a useful motor for many applications, except for a blower. A lot more power than required, hence less useful.
But if you like to use way more power than required, go ahead.
Then I take it that your car has a riding lawn mower motor in it? Most times a car only uses around 25HP to move down the road. Do you really think an electric motor is using the whole of its horsepower all the time? Maybe if you need to buy a new motor for something you would chose one to fit the needs better, but if you have an already paid for motor it won't hurt a thing to use one that is over powered.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
16,534
When I was designing machines that included motors, the standard process was to size the motor appropriately for the load. That meant a bit of margin, but not four times the anticipated load.
When I drive my car I seldom coax the engine to deliver the rated max horsepower. So that is a totally different deal, because consumption is proportional to the output demanded.
An electric motor draws a no-load power based on it's max rating. And using a significantly greater HP rated motor than the application requires is quite inefficient..
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,038
An electric motor draws a no-load power based on it's max rating. And using a significantly greater HP rated motor than the application requires is quite inefficient..
Then with that statement you don't understand that with no load an electric motor draws less current than when it's under the rated HP? An idle or low load motor doesn't draw the name plate amps. Electric motors are the direct opposite of internal combustion motors motors an electric motor draws more power when under load, hence the locked rotor, higher starting amps compared to to free running amps.

No one but you has brought up efficiency, that's not the discussion. more like a distraction. He has a motor and may find a use for it someday, to replace it would be a higher cost than the selling price of a used motor. And don't go to the motor frame being bigger, because HP has no bearing on physical size on small motors like this.
 

Thread Starter

ThePanMan

Joined Mar 13, 2020
705
@MisterBill2 Ture - I don't have a specific purpose "at the moment". I do have choices: I could buy a replacement impeller for that machine and rebuild the fan shroud, and thus, turn it back into a blower. That's the most likely scenario.

When I got my hands on this thing it was a complete single stage dust separator. It would be nice to have it fully functional, but since the impeller has been rendered useless the motor stands alone at present. I have the base, motor and shroud, legs for the separator, bags for the separator and the canister filter. In other words, it's complete except for the impeller.

I DO have 240VAC and can easily wire in another breaker and line. But returning this to a full blown dust collector doesn't serve any serious need. I COULD rebuild it and sell it. I may do just that. I already have a Harbor Freight dust collector that runs on 120VAC and have no need to replace it. Mine (the one in service) has been upgraded with a canister filter as well. So having TWO dust separators isn't practical. My surface plainer has its own blower. I may just use the separator, bag and canister filter for that alone. But it takes up space and my shop isn't thousands of square feet floor space. The shop is 550 sq. ft. Table saw, dedicated bench, compound miter saw and benches, plainer (on a roll about cart) and since I upgraded my dust collector parts of the Harbor Freight collector have been pressed into other service. Built a cabinet on the base. On top of the cabinet is my drill press and belt sander. That leaves room for projects and room to move around. Another dust collector will make navigation more difficult. So - no serious need for another collector.

The bent of the question was wanting to understand the dynamics of running a motor on half the voltage. I figured that the output would be 1/4th of its design but I was not certain on how the motor would react heat and wear wise on the lower voltage. So I asked. Didn't want to start an argument amongst members. But arguments lead to solutions. For now the motor sits quietly awaiting a fate as yet to be decided. However, there's never a moratorium on learning and gaining insight and understanding. The words of ALL members is appreciated - AND considered with due care.

Thank you all.
 

Thread Starter

ThePanMan

Joined Mar 13, 2020
705
----> https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/underpowering-motor.195079/
It has been running for a while now. Am happy, the motor is happy.
What to observe/consider before putting it permanently in the attic to vent the hot air ?
That could be a potential application, except for the fact that the darn thing is so dang heavy. Don't know off hand what it weighs, it's just heavy. Heaving it up into the attic wouldn't be fun. Then I'm going to have to weld up a mount for the motor that can fit into the attic through the access holes. THEN find a fan blade for it. This is not your standard fan shaft. I can't give you a measurement for it right now but I can guess it's either 5/8" or maybe even 3/4". On the outside it could be as much as 1". I'm out of state at present and it's hard to measure the shaft diameter from 2,000 miles away.

For now I'm just looking for information. Not all issues brought to this forum need a resolution such as how the device is going to be used. At present - there is no planned use. But having the necessary information will help me make an informed decision on what exactly to do with this beast.
 
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