My 220v single phase motor 5hp is pulling 8 amps on my tong meter in the motor repair shop. The motor is rated at 28 amps. Motor shop supply voltage with my motor running is 198v. On my farm the motor pulls 26 amps no load at 236v. I have bypassed the motor starter, and have wired it direct to the incoming power at the grain bin at the bottom of the fuses and it still pulls 26 amps. When loaded on the grain auger it pulls 28 to 30 amps and kicks out the heater on the motor starter.

How can it be OK at the motor shop and bad on the farm?

 

Was the motor doing the same amount of work at the repair shop?

 

Was the motor doing the same amount of work at the repair shop?

Yes, on the bench with no load.

 

Is the "no load" at the shop ......the exact same thing as the "no load" at farm?

 

Is the "no load" at the shop ......the exact same thing as the "no load" at farm?

Yes, motor running with nothing attached to it.

 

I don't think I can help you. I wouldn't think that difference in voltage would do that. I have never seen it. I did have a PM mechanic put 2 turns on the measuring loops after the heaters once.......but that don't count.

Just hold on....there are motor experts on here.

 

What are your heater ratings?

 

What are your heater ratings?

Believe it is a 36 or 38. Sorry, it is on my bench at the farm. The chart in the cover is well faded but the number on the heater matched the max amp rating on the motor which was 28.

 

I have ordered a new motor starter with an adjustable heater in it. My old one looked terrible inside. Points are melted and silver spatter all over. I have owned the farm for 30 years and it was far from new when I bought it.

 

I have ordered a new motor starter with an adjustable heater in it. My old one looked terrible inside. Points are melted and silver spatter all over. I have owned the farm for 30 years and it was far from new when I bought it.

It would be better if you use a Special Purpose contactor, these are specially intended for intermittent use rating.
O/L's now are electronic, no more 'heaters'.
Max.

 

It would be better if you use a Special Purpose contactor, these are specially intended for intermittent use rating.
O/L's now are electronic, no more 'heaters'.
Max.

Yes Sir, I ordered the electronic one with the adjustable overload.

 

Any change if you swap L1 and L2? I'm wondering about leakage current to ground.

 

Any change if you swap L1 and L2? I'm wondering about leakage current to ground.

No change at all.

I am about 100" from my meter and feeding off of new wires buried 3 years ago. Should be good but think I will go back to my meter pole Saturday and pull power from the bottom of my main breaker. Maybe something I can't see or measure is causing my problem. My weather for Saturday is Snow with a high of 35 f. Sunday is snow and a hi of 19. Miserable working conditions.

 

What kind of farmer are you? Where are you at?

 

What kind of farmer are you? Where are you at?

Small corn and bean farmer. Used to raise hogs and cattle as well. Livestock and full time employment off farm became too much work so the hogs and cattle were dropped. My farm is in Mid Western Illinois.

 

While motor is running.....what is voltage at motor starter......and what is voltage 100 feet away at motor?

 

While motor is running.....what is voltage at motor starter......and what is voltage 100 feet away at motor?

Voltage at the motor starter and motor are the same 236v. The motor is only 20' from the starter. The supply to the starter comes from the meter which is 100' away. I am wondering if something is going wrong at the meter. Bad connection, burn on the aluminum wire etc. even the wire is only 3 years old. My meter box is a rats nest from the past. The whole farm splices on and runs here and there to fuse boxes and breaker boxes. A bunch of cable clamps and tape from before my time. 40 year old farm wiring leaves a lot to be desired.