Hi, I nave some questions about the wire connection:
1What is the positive wire to the capacitor? Blue one or brown one?
2Where do have I to connect the white wire? (It's not the ground wire because i already removed it)
I also want to be sure that the capacitor positive is the one on the right + shaped

 

Polarity does not matter, it is AC not DC.
Max.

 

Thank you... But what about the white wire?

 

It is marked L as opposed to the one shown connected H.
I assume this is either High or Low speed. (it could L or H voltage also) although it does only state 220vac.
@#12 may confirm.
Max.

 

I'd just leave it unconnected as in the circuit. As MaxHeadRoom says, it is probably a low speed option. Make sure it is insulated or on an unused terminal. Not flopping loose.

 

Max and dendad have this covered, except there is almost never an unused terminal available in an air conditioner. There is no polarity for an oil filled run capacitor and white seems to be, "low speed" which is irrelevant because this air conditioner is not designed to run on low speed. Just make sure the white wire can not connect to anything, voltage, ground, the metal case...no connection. I cut them off so no copper shows, add a small wire nut, fold the wire back on itself, align it along the rest of the wires, and give it a black (therefore UV resistant) zip-tie. Black tape is tempting to use, but it is "not to code" so you just find another way to control any flopping about. I suppose you could cut the white wire off, close to the motor case, and that would work, but I have this strange belief in not burning any options, as if some day, somebody might take this motor out and use it for something that needs low speed. Very unlikely, but that's my personal problem about amputating unused motor wires.

If there is a red dot on the capacitor, that is the terminal which has a hidden fuse inside the capacitor. In this case, that is also irrelevant because the cap is connected to a winding, not power, and not ground. Both leads are equally powered and equally likely to fail, but there is no polarity to be concerned about, not even the internal fuse (if it has one).

 

Thank you every much guys, this forum is awesome, when I'll have time I will connect it and i'm dure it will work good ad new

 

There is a new problemi: the motor works fine but it overheat every quickly (30 seconds and is eventi painful to touch) what can be the problem? (The capacitor dosn't overheat)

 

I removed the ground wire ,insulted the white wire, connected the capacitor ,then connected the red and black wire to a socket and plugged it in (220 volts)

 

The Locked Rotor Amps for that motor is only 1.2a so I would not expect it to get that hot, it may have a shorted turn winding?
Incidentally why did you remove the GND wire?
Max.

 

That motor, unloaded, should loaf along at about 1/3 of an amp. Got amp meter?
Probably not necessary. Heating that fast pretty much proves it's broken.

 

It actually shows .66A normal operation and 1.2a LRA.
Max.

 

It actually shows .66A normal operation and 1.2a LRA.
Max.

Yebbut...normal operation is "at the rated horsepower". From the posts, it looks like this guy is running it w/o a fan blade.

 

Surely that would be Less load, maybe no cooling, but Locked rotor is only 1.2a.
Max.

 

Hi, I was a little bit busy for a while but i finally measured its current: 2.2 Amps, (without fan blades as #12 said) and the heat seems ti come from the spinning rod (not much because I only left it on for a little).

 

the heat seems ti come from the spinning rod (not much because I only left it on for a little).

If by "spinning rod" you mean the shaft, the bearings are probably bad, or if there is a lube fitting, need to be lubricated.

 

If by "spinning rod" you mean the shaft, the bearings are probably bad, or if there is a lube fitting, need to be lubricated.

I don't think so because It draws that much amps, in that regard I did a test where I skinned the shaft with my drill and it didn't quite heat.
PS I'm not an English speaker

 

Right now I did a test where I left the motor running for exactly 30 seconds and measured its temperature before and after:
Starting temperature 27° C
Shaft temperature after running 30 sec 44° C
Motor case temperature after running 37° C

 

I did a test where I skinned the shaft with my drill

Spinned not skinned ( around 30 sec also)