How many 4 watt led edison bulbs can you use on a 12v wire coming out of my ceiling in my rv? I am trying to convert a 120v fixture with 4 e26 fittings. I tried using 4 6 watt bulbs but lights would not come on. I checked all 4 light fittings with my multimeter and all were checking 12v. Not sure what to do. Thanks.

 

How many 4 watt led edison bulbs can you use on a 12v wire coming out of my ceiling in my rv? I am trying to convert a 120v fixture with 4 e26 fittings. I tried using 4 6 watt bulbs but lights would not come on. I checked all 4 light fittings with my multimeter and all were checking 12v. Not sure what to do. Thanks.

post a part number of the bulb.

 

These are the bulbs I am wanting to use.
12V LED Edison Bulbs E26 Medium Base 40W Equivalent, Low Voltage 4W Vintage Style Spiral LED 12V Light Bulb, Warm White 2700K, Antique Clear Glass Bulb for RV, 2 Pack

 

Did you try it with only one bulb??Do the bulbs actually make contact with the center of the socket??Are the sockets actually wired in parallel?? I have seen sockets that do not allow bulbs to make contact, that is what I would suspect,

 

I repaired a floor lamp with a mogal-base bulb – it needed a new socket. The bulb in the lamp was burnt out but the guy said he had spare bulbs so I didn't get a new one.

Shortly after I got it back to him, he messaged and said it didn't work. "Oh, I'm so sorry. I'll come take a look at it (30 miles each way)."

Sure enough it didn't work....until I gave the bulb a quarter turn and actually got it seated in the new socket!

 

I repaired a floor lamp with a mogal-base bulb – it needed a new socket. The bulb in the lamp was burnt out but the guy said he had spare bulbs so I didn't get a new one.

Shortly after I got it back to him, he messaged and said it didn't work. "Oh, I'm so sorry. I'll come take a look at it (30 miles each way)."

Sure enough it didn't work....until I gave the bulb a quarter turn and actually got it seated in the new socket!

Like I said in post #4!!
It seems that there are a whole lot of folks who missed that part of the grade seven science class. That is where it was explained that electricity flows in a CIRCUIT, and then the teacher explained that the word "circuit" is derived from the Latin word "circle", a geometric concept that is a bit complicated.

 

Yea, I have a three-way table lamp with an LED replacement bulb that actually needs to be "tightened" every now and then or the bulb starts to flicker.

 

These are the bulbs I am wanting to use.
12V LED Edison Bulbs E26 Medium Base 40W Equivalent, Low Voltage 4W Vintage Style Spiral LED 12V Light Bulb, Warm White 2700K, Antique Clear Glass Bulb for RV, 2 Pack

Since this is not a link to the bulbs I can't be sure of more than what is already stated. But you DO know that LED's are DC powered devices. If the polarity is wrong they won't light.

[edit] And if you're thinking about those 120VAC bulbs, those have electronics inside them that convert 60Hz AC to high frequency AC then back to DC at a specific voltage for the number of LED's in the lamp.

Lamps such as these

may have rectification circuitry inside them to make sure the power is always flowing through the LED in the proper direction. But that is not always the case.
[end edit]

 

It seems this must be the same bulb you're using. Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/Edison-Equivalent-Voltage-Vintage-Antique/dp/B0B871XFZC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
Everything from the question mark on has been deleted to prevent tracking.

The description goes on to say:

Power Source AC/DC; but this doesn't mean it's full wave rectified. If it's half wave rectified then polarity can be critical to making it work. Unless like others have said, you just need to screw the bulb in tighter. But I've never experienced such an issue; so I don't know.

 

Since they are 12 volt types it will be safe to use test leads to apply power directly to the base to see if that works.That will allow you to know if it is a bulb problem or a connection problem.

 

As I look at the shape of the bulb package it becomes obvious that the glass portion will not allow the base to screw into a standard "Edison base" threaded socket, which has the housing extending beyond the metal threaded portion. That is done to avoid a potential shock hazard from sockets wired with the line to the shell. The result being that the center contacts do not meet.
The solution is to extend the center contact of either the bulb or the socket.
A drop of solder applied to the base of the bulb may be an option, or a drop of solder applied to the center contact of the 12 volt socket may be the better choice, depending on the materials of construction.

 

Many years ago I had a lamp socket that you really had to screw the lamp in tightly. The problem was that the center tab in the socket had become compressed from years of pressure and heat. The solution was to pull that tab up a little to facilitate better contact. That worked. HOWEVER; the lamp I was working on was long before low voltage lighting of that type. I was bending the tab of a lamp socket designed for 120VAC. And as usual I didn't bother to unplug the lamp. With the twist switch there was no way to tell if the lamp was powered or not. AND again, I didn't unplug it. That was a shocking experience. Literally!

Since you're working with low voltage, 12 volts isn't going to harm you. AGAIN, HOWEVER; don't stick a metal tool in there to pry up the center tab. IF the socket is powered, 12 volts can cause a nasty spark. Can blow a fuse or trip a breaker. Or could even start a fire. The key is safety. ALWAYS disconnect power from a socket before sticking anything in there. Anything other than a lamp designed to be put into that socket.

MisterBill2's advice of adding a little bit of solder to the center base of the bulb can work. Just don't overheat the connection, you could lose the connection inside the lamp. I've experienced that too.