That is a lot of power for the tiny little LEDs.
An important missing spec is its thermal resistance from the chip to the ambient. Also its datasheet will show how to mount and cool it.

 

So the LEDs can have a voltage as low as 3.0x3=9V or as high as 3.9x3=11.7 volts.
The current is about 2AX3=9A
The supply is 11 to 15V.

A simple buck can not buck 11V down to 11.7V. You could get only low voltage LED from the factory. Or go with two LEDs and make the buck more simple.
Many CC pwm use a resistor to measure the current. There will be a 0.1 to 0.25V loss there.

Many LED bulbs measure the LED's temperature and will back down the current if things get too hot. On a hot summer day you probably don't need all the current.

 

Once again, a properly sized series resistor will limit the current to a safe value for the normal spread of automotive voltages. It will serve as a very simple form of current control. Keep in mind that you don't want to run the LEDs near the max rated current because that will tend to shorten their life, and run them much hotter.

 

Once again, a properly sized series resistor will limit the current to a safe value for the normal spread of automotive voltages.

Please choose a resistor. Vin 11 to 15V, LED voltage 10.V What resistor value? What wattage?
-----
Not easy, with just a resistor. 80 watts for the LED at 15V and 16 watts at 11V.
This is why they make CC pwm. 80 watts at 15V and 80 watts at 11V.
At 15V using a resistor, 10V on the LED and 5V on the resistor. 80W in the LED and 40W in the resistor. This is why you use a pwm.

 

Please choose a resistor. Vin 11 to 15V, LED voltage 10.V What resistor value? What wattage?
-----
Not easy, with just a resistor. 80 watts for the LED at 15V and 16 watts at 11V.
This is why they make CC pwm. 80 watts at 15V and 80 watts at 11V.
At 15V using a resistor, 10V on the LED and 5V on the resistor. 80W in the LED and 40W in the resistor. This is why you use a pwm.

Certainly a constant current regulator will be far more efficient, no argument there. But your current selection is still based on running at the maximum rated current.
A switching type voltage regulator plus a resistor will also work.

 

I will be running them at MAX rated current as they're are not intended on being on for more than a couple milliseconds, then off for a couple being flashed constantly. I will be running them on a test bench on a full 2A until death then at 50% Amperage,(1A) and then again at 25% power (500mA) this is for testing purposes,

 

SO Im back at it after some frustration and giving up for a bit, with a new clear mind.

id like to drive 9 of these led's from a 12V source (vehicle 12v 11.2min to 14.8 max)

Each led needs 2A. so the options are:
A) Drive them in series and have 2A @ 31.5v (R) / 34.2v (W,B,G)
B) Drive them in parallel and have 18A @ 3.5v (R)/ 3.8 V (W,B,G)
C) Drive them series parallel 3x3 and have 6A @ 10.2v (R)/11.4v (W,B,G)

I've been looking without success for a CC driver that best suits this
also, keep in mind it needs to filter EMI to CISPR Class 3 min (I'd like class 5 filtering)

ill be switching / controlling it it with an Arduino mega 2360

 

Are you blinking the very powerful LEDs to change a traffic light to green for an ambulance to go through? Then people will crash into you because they will be blinded by your LEDs and not see an ambulance, instead it will be you.

 

the purpose is for an led lighting product for police, fire, and ambulance. I don't need your remarks please and thank you.

 

Now, if there's someone who has something helpful
I've been looking at the TPS92515HV-Q1 as a 2A cc option
I'm just a bit confused on how to drive it correctly (resistor and capacitor values ect.)
it can work up to 65V so its plenty for this purpose.
Thanks again

 

Are you blinking the very powerful LEDs to change a traffic light to green for an ambulance to go through? Then people will crash into you because they will be blinded by your LEDs and not see an ambulance, instead it will be you.

Those very powerful LEDs are IR, and folks do not see them. A friend of mine uses one to blind the facial recognition cameras that he drives past. The bright IR light certainly blinds the cameras that we tested it with. But they did not blind me, 20 feet in front of the car, nor did I even see them.

 

SO Im back at it after some frustration and giving up for a bit, with a new clear mind.

id like to drive 9 of these led's from a 12V source (vehicle 12v 11.2min to 14.8 max)

Each led needs 2A. so the options are:
A) Drive them in series and have 2A @ 31.5v (R) / 34.2v (W,B,G)
B) Drive them in parallel and have 18A @ 3.5v (R)/ 3.8 V (W,B,G)
C) Drive them series parallel 3x3 and have 6A @ 10.2v (R)/11.4v (W,B,G)

I've been looking without success for a CC driver that best suits this
also, keep in mind it needs to filter EMI to CISPR Class 3 min (I'd like class 5 filtering)

ill be switching / controlling it it with an Arduino mega 2360

Option "C" makes the most sense because it does not require raising the supply voltage. Several of the big semiconductor companies have LED driver product ICs and they also provide application circuits to use with their products. So they can be far more useful. TI and ST and I think also LInear Technology are three that I can thinjk of right now. An added advantage is that they have put in an effort to make certain that the circuits work as promised.

 

Those very powerful LEDs are IR, and folks do not see them. A friend of mine uses one to blind the facial recognition cameras that he drives past. The bright IR light certainly blinds the cameras that we tested it with. But they did not blind me, 20 feet in front of the car, nor did I even see them.

No. In post #20 he posted the datasheet of red, green, blue and white LEDs. Not for an IR LED.
In post #29 he mentioned the ambulance use I talked about, changing the traffic light to green with his blinking high power LEDs.

 

Option "C" makes the most sense because it does not require raising the supply voltage. Several of the big semiconductor companies have LED driver product ICs and they also provide application circuits to use with their products. So they can be far more useful. TI and ST and I think also LInear Technology are three that I can thinjk of right now. An added advantage is that they have put in an effort to make certain that the circuits work as promised.

I've been looking at TA as they have the most user-friendly database and tools I find. and they don't have any CC drivers that appropriately provide a 6A they stop at 5A for automotive applications.

he's thinking of an opticom they are illegal unless you are working for a government or govt. authorized company

 

No. In post #20 he posted the datasheet of red, green, blue and white LEDs. Not for an IR LED.
In post #29 he mentioned the ambulance use I talked about, changing the traffic light to green with his blinking high power LEDs.

you cant change traffic lights with anything but a high-frequency strobe codded to a specific city or an IR opticom. anyways you're not assisting the thread and I'm going to ask you to remain on topic, instead of making [foul language removed - replaced with "stuff"] up. thanks ! ^_^

MOD NOTE: Do not use foul/obscene language on this forum.

 

Since you do not say why, Google and I think you want to change the traffic light.

 

Since you do not say why, Google and I think you want to change the traffic light.

Usually emergency vehicles need to remind folks to watch out and also let them by. Emergency vehicles alongside the road use the flashers to remind folks to not bash into them. And since the request is to help design lighting for emergency vehicles those are probably the main reasons. AND if you have recently noticed the prices of commercially made emergency vehicle lighting it becomes clear why one would want to make it themselves. Not every community has moore funds than the know how to spend.

 

Since you do not say why, Google and I think you want to change the traffic light.

AGAIN I'm an emergency vehicle outfitter, I know the laws and regulations inside and out even to most state laws.
you are reading about an OPTICOM strobe or IR led flasher. it's a not visible light that has NOTHING to do with colored lighting that is used on emergency vehicles. You are out of line and wasting our time, please leave!

This is NOT for traffic lighting, so again stop making sit up unless you have something resourceful to add to my request.

I have no use for the Opticom system as my region and most regions don't have that system in place and instead, we rely on proper driving procedures such as slowing at red lights and stopping if need be.




Please, someone provide anything actually insightful?

 

If I just use a 12V @2A driver with the LEDs in series-parallel with a 0.6ohm resistor to drop the voltage will that be sufficient?
I'm just running testing on thermals and PWM control so far.

I'm trying to think simple stupid here before I dig into dedicated IC's

 

If I just use a 12V @2A driver with the LEDs in series-parallel with a 0.6ohm resistor to drop the voltage will that be sufficient?
I'm just running testing on thermals and PWM control so far.

I'm trying to think simple stupid here before I dig into dedicated IC's

Developing a useful circuit would be good. When you get a good one working please share it with us.
For experimenting I suggest starting with a higher resistance value to avoid damaging things until you see that it is working the way that you want.
And if the manufacturer says use heat sinking then that is indeed important.

I think that the guru is off of their medication. Attacking folks on a number of threads. That is why I try to be tactful with that individual.