In the other thread are two guys trying to fool their car's pollution controls.
In this thread the guy is making very bright flashing lights on his car then on post #38 he says "I'm an emergency vehicle outfitter" for the first time saying what he is doing.

 

In the other thread are two guys trying to fool their car's pollution controls.
In this thread the guy is making very bright flashing lights on his car then on post #38 he says "I'm an emergency vehicle outfitter" for the first time saying what he is doing.

SHUT UP!

WHO F-ING CARES WHAT THEY DO! is that my concern or yours? NO! is it a health concern to others? NO!

you don't have anything insightful I've asked you to refrain from posting on this thread unless its useful or remotely intelligent and you haven't.

I'm not opposed to involving moderator here to get you to leave and stop wasting people's time as it seems you have been bothering many members here!

 

HEY!!! No Yelling here!!!!

 

HEY!!! No Yelling here!!!!

yes sir

 

HEy all, just ade some redesigns and I'm looking to see if anyone has the time to review these two IC's and tell me what you think?
-XL6003 Boost LED Driver
-STCS2A 2 A max constant current LED driver
I imagine the only real difference is the PWM ability on the STC2A which would benefit me in the ability to just use a PWM signal to control the blinking rate of the led.

 

-XL6003 Boost LED Driver

The "switch" is 2A. You can not get 2A out from this boost power supply. Probably 1/2 A. It depends on many factors. Example: 0.5A out at 24V = 1A in at 12V, depending on what inductor you are going to be close to 2A peak.

 

yes sir

Although it may have been called for.

 

HEy all, just ade some redesigns and I'm looking to see if anyone has the time to review these two IC's and tell me what you think?
-XL6003 Boost LED Driver
-STCS2A 2 A max constant current LED driver
I imagine the only real difference is the PWM ability on the STC2A which would benefit me in the ability to just use a PWM signal to control the blinking rate of the led.

If you use the switch IC with a PWM drive then you will need to arrange your LEDs in strings that will work with your 12-volt system, but that should not be an issue. The clear benefit is that you will not be depending on the boost voltage. So the switch will be more efficient. AND, adding to post #46, you can not get out ,ore power than you put in.

 

you can not get out ,ore power than you put in.

The point I was trying for is that in a Buck supply the output current is about the same as the current in the power transistor. (MOSFET, IC, switch) In a boost the output current is much smaller than the peak current in the switch. You need to watch the terms used in the data sheet, and watch what type of supply you are using.

 

it's an automotive 12v system with voltages going between 11.2-13.8v and a good supply of amperage.

id like to run it with less amperage and more voltage because it's easier to carry over longer distances (up to 50Ft away from the source) so id need a boost driver that can supply 2A of CC to the leds and over 35V of output.
TA recommended me the TPS92692 but so far I'm seeing that its got a rather large footprint to fit 4 of them in a small space.

 

anyone?

 

anyone?

There are a lot of DC toDC inverter supplies around, and many circuits for them as well. AND there are companies that make switching adapters so that 24 volt radios can be used in 12 volt cars. "ASTRON" is one manufacturer who is stable and steady and has a good reputation.

 

I'm using this Fulree 12V 10A Voltage Regulator for my vehicle's LED project in the hope it will help me stabilize the voltage.
It's supposed to take an input range of 10-36 Volts and output at 12V 10A. It hasn't arrived from China yet, so I haven't been able to test how well it works or not.

 

i need 36V ... but thanks