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Whirlpool WEG745H0F gas range repair
- Thread starter hottubthompson56
- Start date
Pins 1,3,4,5,7 are used on p7
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How's this?
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Thanks for your help
Here are assumptions I am working with.
The first and last wire on the ribbon cable are not connected to the control board. Hence, it is unlikely that the damaged wires caused the problem.
Assuming that the F2E1 error code is correct, there could be some other possible reason for this. The same controller is used in other appliances and F2E1 error code could be a catch-all error code for other faulty inputs. For example, it is used to report a bad micro-switch in a microwave oven.
Since the error is still shown when the touch panel is not connected, we can assume that the error could be related to an unused input to the controller. For example, P7-6 to P7-4 connection is used for the Door Latch Switch on other models.
The plan at this point is to examine other inputs to the MCU that are not coming from the touch panel.
The first and last wire on the ribbon cable are not connected to the control board. Hence, it is unlikely that the damaged wires caused the problem.
Assuming that the F2E1 error code is correct, there could be some other possible reason for this. The same controller is used in other appliances and F2E1 error code could be a catch-all error code for other faulty inputs. For example, it is used to report a bad micro-switch in a microwave oven.
Since the error is still shown when the touch panel is not connected, we can assume that the error could be related to an unused input to the controller. For example, P7-6 to P7-4 connection is used for the Door Latch Switch on other models.
The plan at this point is to examine other inputs to the MCU that are not coming from the touch panel.
Makes sense. Just let me know what to check next.
Above the black connector P7, there is a transistor labelled Q15.
The pins are numbered 1, 2, 3 as follows.
With the appliance plugged in and powered, measure the voltage at each pin, 1, 2, and 3 with respect to ground (if you can find a grounding point on the chassis).
Open the oven door and take readings. Close the oven door and repeat.
The pins are numbered 1, 2, 3 as follows.
With the appliance plugged in and powered, measure the voltage at each pin, 1, 2, and 3 with respect to ground (if you can find a grounding point on the chassis).
Open the oven door and take readings. Close the oven door and repeat.
This is a piece of information I think I left out- when I was moving the range around ( before there was an issue) the afci/gfci breaker tripped. I realized it had lost power once I moved it back into place. I checked and reset the breaker, and once power was restored it started acting up. So I am confident the range did experience a ground fault.
Will do- I'll get back to you.
So, the PCB has no grounding to the chassis. So measuring voltages between Q15 and the chassis produced no result. But I did test the voltages between P7-1 and each leg of Q15. On a side note P7-1 does have continuity with pin 2 of Q15. The results I got don't seem to mean anything to me but maybe they mean something to you. Or maybe I did it wrong.
With door closed:
Pin 1: .004 v
Pin 2: 0 v
Pin 3: .003 v
With door open:
Pin 1: .034 v
Pin 2: 0 v
Pin 3: .003 v
On a side note I do hear the board energizing and de-energizing relay K6 for the oven light when I open and close the door.
With door closed:
Pin 1: .004 v
Pin 2: 0 v
Pin 3: .003 v
With door open:
Pin 1: .034 v
Pin 2: 0 v
Pin 3: .003 v
On a side note I do hear the board energizing and de-energizing relay K6 for the oven light when I open and close the door.
Just to let you know, without a circuit schematic, we are shooting in the dark.
All the symptoms seem to suggest that the control board is bad. What we are trying to do here is to avoid having to buy a new control board, which is going to cost about $300. There are so many different variations of the board, even if you got an exact replacement, there is no guarantee that the problem will be resolved. However, I would guess that the chances are high that the problem will be fixed, if you choose to go that route.
I know it is inconvenient having your range out of commission. How are you and your family making do without the range? Do you have backup cookers, stoves or microwave ovens in the meantime? How much longer are you prepared to go without the gas range?
Ok, back to the trouble shooting.
Were the voltage measurements taken with the cable inserted into P7?
When you heard the relay clicking, was the oven light going on and off as expected?
All the symptoms seem to suggest that the control board is bad. What we are trying to do here is to avoid having to buy a new control board, which is going to cost about $300. There are so many different variations of the board, even if you got an exact replacement, there is no guarantee that the problem will be resolved. However, I would guess that the chances are high that the problem will be fixed, if you choose to go that route.
I know it is inconvenient having your range out of commission. How are you and your family making do without the range? Do you have backup cookers, stoves or microwave ovens in the meantime? How much longer are you prepared to go without the gas range?
Ok, back to the trouble shooting.
Were the voltage measurements taken with the cable inserted into P7?
When you heard the relay clicking, was the oven light going on and off as expected?
The voltage measurements suggest to me that there was not a proper ground connection.
Hence, the first thing we need to do is find circuit ground, or what is properly called circuit common which I will label as GND for simplicity.
With the appliance unplugged from the wall outlet, we will use the DMM on continuity check to find GND on the control board.
For now, I will assume that one side of the capacitors are at GND.
With the cable unplugged from P7, check to see if P7-1 is in continuity with other GND suspects.
For example, there is a footprint for a large capacitor C69. Check if the negative terminal (on the left) is GND.
Hence, the first thing we need to do is find circuit ground, or what is properly called circuit common which I will label as GND for simplicity.
With the appliance unplugged from the wall outlet, we will use the DMM on continuity check to find GND on the control board.
For now, I will assume that one side of the capacitors are at GND.
With the cable unplugged from P7, check to see if P7-1 is in continuity with other GND suspects.
For example, there is a footprint for a large capacitor C69. Check if the negative terminal (on the left) is GND.
Yes. I was taking the voltage readings with p-7 connector connected. I used p7-1 as the 'ground'.
These appliances were gifted to us and I have the old set. So it's not that big of a deal. Right now we are just using the range with a lighter- which works fine. I did purchase a replacement board, for a steal, on ebay which will be coming on Friday. But, if possible, I would still like to fix the original board.
These appliances were gifted to us and I have the old set. So it's not that big of a deal. Right now we are just using the range with a lighter- which works fine. I did purchase a replacement board, for a steal, on ebay which will be coming on Friday. But, if possible, I would still like to fix the original board.
Just let me know what I should try next.
