The only solenoid 'Burn-out' I have experienced with is in the use of AC versions, which has never occurred with DC versions in my many years of installing them.
Max.

I was burn DC solenoid, input is 12v DC but I use 42v DC supply and they burnt, also I use same 12v DC solenoid with 220v AC and that solenoid isn't burnt after about 3 minutes, but solenoids is buzzing

 

I was burn DC solenoid, input is 12v DC but I use 42v DC supply and they burnt, also I use same 12v DC solenoid with 220v AC and that solenoid isn't burnt after about 3 minutes, but solenoids is buzzing

Only someone with too much time, and possibly money, on their hands would try such things. Why would anyone expect things to work outside the conditions for which they were intended.

 

Only someone with too much time, and possibly money, on their hands would try such things. Why would anyone expect things to work outside the conditions for which they were intended.

And yet he wants to become a "well known member" here?

 

And yet he wants to become a "well known member" here?

Well known for all the wrong reasons?

 

And yet he wants to become a "well known member" here?

There is all manner of nonsensical expectation extant on these pages. My favorite is the folks trying to find datasheets and replacements for custom proprietary undocumented chips. They wonder how it can be possible for a company to do that. They are also mystified by the globs of black epoxy covering unpackaged dice. Industry moved away from repairing boards more than two decades ago, but not the rest of the world. You have to admire their willingness to expend endless amounts of time and energy on sisyphean tasks

 

But I've never heard the term "sensitor".

Sensistor - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Sensistor

Sensistor is a resistor whose resistance changes with temperature. The resistance increases exponentially with temperature, that is the temperature coefficient is positive (e.g. 0.7% per degree Celsius).

 

A "re jister" is something else entirely. I may have spelled it wrong. It's a programmable resistor.

I think Littlefuse has a PTC device too. Typically used for battery tools and motors. Name escapes me.

 

I was burn DC solenoid, input is 12v DC but I use 42v DC supply and they burnt, also I use same 12v DC solenoid with 220v AC and that solenoid isn't burnt after about 3 minutes, but solenoids is buzzing

Watt did you expect? Were you trying to test them to destruction to see how tough they were? Testing your smoke detectors, perhaps?

 

Only someone with too much time, and possibly money, on their hands would try such things. Why would anyone expect things to work outside the conditions for which they were intended.

Yes... I was very interested in experiments... also my job is flexible so I have enough time to do some experiments... also my house is my factory and my laboratory...

 

Watt did you expect? Were you trying to test them to destruction to see how tough they were? Testing your smoke detectors, perhaps?

No... for experiments... and solenoid reliability testing... I also was tested 230v MCB with 2000v and found some MCB is very very good, but some MCB is exploded nor burnt, and another interesting experiments...

 

Sensistor - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Sensistor

Sensistor is a resistor whose resistance changes with temperature. The resistance increases exponentially with temperature, that is the temperature coefficient is positive (e.g. 0.7% per degree Celsius).

Someone's made up a meaningless word when there was already a much clearer word for it:

Most hits on google are for leak detectors!
https://sensistor.com/en/industrial-leak-detectors/

 

If the holding current is low enough to prevent over heating then a proper sized resistor in parallel a proper sized capacitor should work?

 

The problem is, in an industrial setting anyway, is when a AC solenoid does not completely shift the armature for some reason, or someone pushes the armature over to test, as in a Hydraulic valve etc, resulting in unseating a shifted armature when under power, this usually result in an instant burn out.
The DC variety run the same current when initialized or solenoid shifted.

If it's a matter of current draw, a simple fuse or PTC would suffice