drill/tap it and use screws or bolts and heatsink compound..by the way, how am i suppposed to attach the led to the heat sink...
Heat sink does not touch the contacts, therefore there is no current going into the aluminum.ok i thought i would have to ground it or something.. i wonder what stops the current from going into the aluminum
All depends how fine you're cutting it, for most purposes its an adequate arrangement - if you're trying to squeeze every last milliwatt out of a power LED, its best to have more headroom - but then you waste more power.Using a fixed resistor and looking at the possible forward voltage drops of the LED the current changes considerably.
12V supply..
If R = 5 ohm
if Vf = 9
12-9Vf=3/5= .6A (running at 60% of what its rated for)
or
if Vf = 11
12-11vf = 1/5 = .2A (running at only 20% of what its rated for)
If thats ok with you then go right ahead..
yeah I wasn't aware of the "tight" budget ..All depends how fine you're cutting it, for most purposes its an adequate arrangement - if you're trying to squeeze every last milliwatt out of a power LED, its best to have more headroom - but then you waste more power.
The OP is working to a budget - compromises are inevitable.
You MUST have the resistor. (or other method to limit the current through the LED)Yes all the chips still light up but they go out quickly
On a second hand PC tower case I bought a while back, I noticed that after a while the PWR LED started to flash - slowly at first, but getting faster.Yes all the chips still light up but they go out quickly
by Duane Benson
by Jerry Twomey
by Jake Hertz
by Aaron Carman