Hi

I'm a software developper and i trying to create a diving light

something like

I have a lithium battery

4S3P (18650 battery)

on top of the battery, i thinking to use a bms
http://www.all-battery.com/PCBfor4Cells14.8VLi-ion_Li-PolymerPacks5AWorking10Acut-off-32161.aspx

after I use a switch
Carling Technologies 2FA54-73
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/65/F-SeriesSW_Details___COS-257553.pdf

switch will be attached to le
led driver
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024008.4-18V-1-Mode-Drive-Circuit-Board-for-1-x-Cree-XHP70

led driver will be connected to skink pad
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025183....12V-DTP-Copper-MCPCB-for-Cree-XHP70-(-2-pcs-)

sinkpad will be connected XHP70
http://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-XHP70.pdf

in term of voltage, amperage and how component connected to each other that make sense?

 

Does it work like you want above water? If so, then your real problem will be to halt any water intrusion during a dive.

 

not yet tested... not really scare about this part.

before weld every component, want to be sure everything will work correctly.

 

...after I use a switch
Carling Technologies 2FA54-73
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/65/F-SeriesSW_Details___COS-257553.pdf

How will you deal with waterproofing? I mean, those switches aren't meant to be wet.

I haven't studied every component in detail but it looks like you should be able to nearly plug and play. One concern I have is heat management. If you run the LED anywhere near it's maximum ratings, it needs good heat sinking and it's not obvious from what you've written that you've addressed that. The copper mounting boards help but I'm not sure that's enough.

 

i have this kind of boot to put on the switch

about heat, it's sure light should not be used outside water

 

...about heat, it's sure light should not be used outside water

If you can't get the heat outside the case, then it doesn't matter if it is in water or not - they will soon burn up.

 

Your led driver needs 4.5 amps current @14V that's 63W maximum power, from the battery, the led driver has a temperature cut off of 55C, and dims automatically to reduce temperature if needed, that's a lot of heat in a small space, if you plan on using the light for say 2Hrs your battery needs have a capacity of 10Ah minimum...

 

You may need something better for the switch. See https://www.bluesea.com/products/4151/WeatherDeck_Toggle_Switch_SPST_-_[ON]-OFF . Also look at IP ratings:

I'm thinking something magnetic or a switch operated by a blood pressure diaphragm See http://www.allheart.com/product.asp...itt-kit47154&gclid=COn7qZGN_tQCFVJLDQod4RwGUA

.

 

No indication of the depth you will be using this light at. Those switch waterproofing boots don't look like they are meant for for use at depth, look more like just weatherproof types.

 

You might consider a magnetic reed switch inside with MOSFET (and a few resistors) with a magnet outside the case.

 

You may need something better for the switch. See https://www.bluesea.com/products/4151/WeatherDeck_Toggle_Switch_SPST_-_[ON]-OFF . Also look at IP ratings:

I'm thinking something magnetic or a switch operated by a blood pressure diaphragm See http://www.allheart.com/product.aspx?p=littkit47&s=&c=154&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_term=LITT-KIT47154}&utm_content=LITT-KIT47154}&utm_campaign=all\diagnostics-hp\litt-kit47154&gclid=COn7qZGN_tQCFVJLDQod4RwGUA

.

majority of the diving canister light use a normal switch since many year and work fine

 

Your led driver needs 4.5 amps current @14V that's 63W maximum power, from the battery, the led driver has a temperature cut off of 55C, and dims automatically to reduce temperature if needed, that's a lot of heat in a small space, if you plan on using the light for say 2Hrs your battery needs have a capacity of 10Ah minimum...

head is in aluminium

i have another driver who use less current, could try this one if the other head too much
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024447.6V-12V-5-Mode-Driver-Circuit-Board-for-1-x-Cree-XHP70

i use 4S3P lithum battery

each battery have 3100mAh.

something i'm not sure

depending of the driver, it use around 4.5 but led at 12 v use 2.40A... there are a big loss?

 

No indication of the depth you will be using this light at. Those switch waterproofing boots don't look like they are meant for for use at depth, look more like just weatherproof types.

used seem switch then another diving like that halcyon use...

 

head is in aluminium

i have another driver who use less current, could try this one if the other head too much
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024447.6V-12V-5-Mode-Driver-Circuit-Board-for-1-x-Cree-XHP70

i use 4S3P lithum battery

each battery have 3100mAh.

something i'm not sure

depending of the driver, it use around 4.5 but led at 12 v use 2.40A... there are a big loss?

On your last question, no. I believe the LED has two modes and when in 12V mode, it will draw just 2.4A. To get the same power out of 6V requires double the current. This means you need a different driver if you want to operate the LED at 12V. Or just use the 6V mode.

 

On your last question, no. I believe the LED has two modes and when in 12V mode, it will draw just 2.4A. To get the same power out of 6V requires double the current. This means you need a different driver if you want to operate the LED at 12V. Or just use the 6V mode.

led can operate at
6V 4800mA
12V 2400mA

if we check this driver
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024008.4-18V-1-Mode-Drive-Circuit-Board-for-1-x-Cree-XHP70

Operating voltage: 4-18V, maximum 20V

and it's said

LED current: 4.5-5A

that why i find that strange... this driver is specialy made for cree xhp70

 

that why i find that strange... this driver is specialy made for cree xhp70

Yes, I take that to mean that you have to wire the LED for it's 6V operating mode, and the driver will provide a constant current at that higher range. The PCB pad you have chosen appears to be designed for only the 12V mode and may not be compatible. You need the other one.

 

Ye

Yes, I take that to mean that you have to wire the LED for it's 6V operating mode, and the driver will provide a constant current at that higher range. The PCB pad you have chosen appears to be designed for only the 12V mode and may not be compatible. You need the other one.

ok but if i wire to operate a 6v, will need to change my battery

 

You can use any voltage from 6 to 14v, the current draw will be more on 6v to maintain the wattage.

 

You can use any voltage from 6 to 14v, the current draw will be more on 6v to maintain the wattage.

you talk about the driver....

if i use 6v, i will need to modify battery

 

you talk about the driver....

if i use 6v, i will need to modify battery

Why? The driver is designed to accept a wide range of voltages and still output the specified current.