The good news is that now you understand how to be able to use the motor for your different sort of application. Glad I was able to offer a bit of help.

 

@Ylli Have no intention to use it. Already cut the crimp off the end, folded the wire back on itself and shrink sleeved it. After I build a housing to mount the motor I'll probably secure it to something solid so it doesn't vibrate.

@MisterBill2 Thanks for the help.

Thank you ALL. The last thing I wanted to do was forge ahead and really screw something up.

Rain for the next few days so I'll be waiting for better weather to plumb up the motor. Going to have to modify a few pipes as well. The next two important things are filtration and sealing against air leaks.

 

If your going to use this as a whole shop vacuum think you'll be disappointed. If it is for a single machine it may work.
I was going to do the same thing, use an old vacuum cleaner motor for my table saw, and jointer and while sanding in the shop. Went to a vacuum cleaner repair shop to see if they had a motor, the guy there said that wasn't the correct type of thing to use. He said it would overheat the motor and cause it to work in a runaway condition. aA vacuum cleaner is only meant to have a short distance from the intake to the impeller, if that is changed to much it restricts the vacuum and unloads the motor it's self. A universal type motor is made for a particular load on it, unload it and it runs away and can cause damage to itself and over heating.

Look at all of the whole shop vacuum systems in catalogs, they all use a squirrel cage blower and induction motor, like a furnace blower.

 

What can make it work as a whole shop vacuum is the ability to completely shut off all of the ports except for the machine in use. Most whole shop systems do not make any effort to shut off the ports at unused machines, and thus they certainly do need far more flow at the suction blower. Of course, adding those shutoffs will add to the effort, an alternative is a long vacuum hose and connect to the machine in use. very efficient and quite effective but less convenient. But for this problem it is a solution.

 

This is the way my central vac works, all outlets are closed, only the one in use is open.
The longer the hose adds to unloading the motor and rpm's go up, same as closing all outlets, and as @shortbus said, increases motor heating as they rely on the air flow over the motor.
Unloading demonstrated when the current hose end is purposely covered or blocked.
Industrial router tables use a AC induction motor vacuum pump.
Max.

 

Don't plan on turning my garage into a dedicated wood shop. I'll move the hose from machine to machine. I have a table saw, a band saw, a router and a sander that will in turn be connected to the vac. In the winter time the whole thing needs to be put away so I can park cars out of the snowy weather.

I don't expect to ever be blocking air flow so the motor will not be unloading. The hose is 2 1/2 inch and the pipe into and out of the vortex chamber is 2 inch. The motor inlet is (guessing) around 1 3/4 inch. So I don't think I'm going to have a problem with over heating. Unless whatever system I build as a filter to protect the motor becomes clogged. Then whenever I run the table saw it's rarely on for a duration longer than 60 seconds. And down time between cuts can be as short as a few minutes. The bandsaw is rarely used and the router is set up to be very un-restricting for airflow. The sander may be the only tool with a smaller hose connected to it. 1 1/4 inch maybe. Off hand I don't know the measurements. I'm measuring and modifying as I build.

As for using a shop vac - that sucker is huge. And noisy as all get-go. Getting away from that large noisy machine will add to the pleasure of woodcrafting.

Oh, forgot: Surface planer and a jointer. The planer has its own air flow system.

 

As for using a shop vac - that sucker is huge. And noisy as all get-go. Getting away from that large noisy machine will add to the pleasure of woodcrafting.
.

Mine is an area on its own, and feeds the shop as well as the house all separate areas.
Max.

 

Project completed. Happy with results.

Project consists of an old vacuum motor from an upright vacuum cleaner
Air filter box from a junk car (BMW)
Vortex dust separator
Wooden cover with a cove underneath to fit over the container
Container is a cutdown brine tank from a water softener.
A few other miscellaneous parts and voila.

 

GREAT!! I had not considered what it was going to look like, thanks for showing us. Is that tank plastic or fiberglass, and if fiberglass, what did you use to make the cut? I have had problems making nice cuts in fiberglass is why I ask.
The project is a great show of re-purposing and recycling, and a good show of what can be done.

 

It's #2 PETE plastic (I think #2 is PETE - it IS #2).

Problem encountered with plastic is thermal expansion. I cut a ring out of a scrap piece of 1/2 inch plywood then cut through the ring allowing me to expand or contract the ring. After leaving the bin in the sun the ring was a poor fit. With the cut through I was able to expand the ring and wedge it. It mostly lives in the garage, therefore it's not going to see that big a swing in temperature (except in the winter when it gets cold out there. Still, the ring should keep the shape of the bin consistent. Then for the cover I cove routed an 18 inch diameter using the smallest cove bit I had. Used that because it's smaller than my 1/4 inch square bit. Routed into the cover (a 3/4" particle board) about a quarter inch, then stuffed the groove with window sealing rubber tubing with sticky tape. When the machine is running you can see the top compress down a little and when you block the intake altogether you can see it fully seat.

The cover is 22 inch diameter with six blocks around the rim to hold the plastic in and help align the cover to the rim of the bin. To cut the bin I used a metal blade on my jig saw because I wanted a cleaner cut and to move slower so I could follow the line I drew about the circumference. To mark that line I set up a marker on a stick mounted to a block so that it would remain consistent as I spun the bin around and making the mark. I took this cut slowly because going fast could have left all kinds of wandering away from the line, and keeping a consistent edge was very important. After cutting I flipped it upside down and rubbed it on the driveway, then checked to see where I was polishing the edges. I think I got lucky, the cut was amazingly straight for a cut-by-hand cut.

I would have liked to center the vortex dust separator but because I had to mount the motor I needed some real estate. But the biggest advantage is not having to clean the filter every hour of cutting wood. The vortex extractor does a real good job of pulling the dust out of the air. After doing a bunch of vacuuming of several different sizes of dust and debris I inspected the air filter for dust and other junk. I found a couple pieces of string and a single wood-plane shaving. The filter itself appeared to have not collected any dust at all. Looks like the engineers who designed the air filter (for cars) did a pretty good job of making it so that debris tends to stay out of the filter. Large surface area means low airflow. A lot of the bigger particles will fall out of the air stream.

The inlet on the vacuum is about 1 1/2 inch diameter. I had to take 1 1/2 ABS and heat the end to slip it over the intake on the motor. It ended up being a real nice tight fit. Also an added bonus was that the expanded pipe also fit snug inside a 2 inch ABS pipe. The outside diameter of the 2 inch ABS is about 2 3/8, which fits my 2 1/2 inch hose nicely. Ring clamps keep everything in place. On the vortex separator the inlet was 53 mm. A 2 inch ABS pipe would not fit without heating and expanding the end. Again, the 2 inch ABS OD is perfect for my hose.

While at the junk yard I found a nice air filter from a Ford Expedition. While shopping the lot for other treasures (a smog pump to be used in a future project for my fireplace, details and advice to come later this year) I came across a BMW with an even bigger filter box. I'm glad I took that one instead. For the two pieces I spent $43 (US). All in all, on the whole project I probably spent less than $45 (not counting the smog pump). The rest came from scrap pieces of wood, the old brine tank and a few pieces of ABS I already had and the few pieces I had to purchase.

The switch controlling the device is a dual purpose switch. It has a single switch and a single outlet. The outlet is wired to only be on when the switch is on. This will make using my palm sander nice. Plug it in, turn it on and it only runs when the vacuum is on. The cord to the whole thing is too small to support running a table saw or band saw or other large pieces of woodworking machinery. But for the small stuff it's perfect. Sander, power (hand) planer, trim router and maybe even my bigger router, but that may be pushing it a little.

Now I can finish the cabinet doors for the kitchen and build that hutch the wife wants in the dining room.

 

Thanks for the detailed description!! Quite a creation indeed.

 

Incidentally, for cutting fiberglass, I'd use a diamond blade on an angle grinder. LOTS of glass dust though. Respirator is mandatory as well as a good face shield. Safety glasses are not enough when your face is getting showered with fiberglass.

I actually have a few fiberglass spun tanks from water softeners. They're rated at 200 PSI so I use them as an extra reservoir for my air compressor. Those times when I'm blowing out sprinklers for the winter it comes in handy because my 4 gallon compressor isn't enough to blow down the sprinklers. Three tanks actually. Had to use some electrical ABS conduit fittings to get down to a usable size. Then standard gas pipe for air fittings.

Actually, I mentioned my smog pump. I'm resisting the urge to post a new thread regarding PWM and motor speed control. I know the basics on how to do it. I have an old light dimmer from my wife's Celica (she wrecked). It's PWM. But I am confident it can't handle the power. So I'm planning on using a power MOSFET to handle the speed control for the smog pump motor. I have yet to mess with it. I only know the pump works. It's actually a lot like a vacuum pump, only its output is pumped into the exhaust manifold. But we'll get there this fall.

 

Safety glasses are not enough when your face is getting showered with fiberglass.

I do a lot of grinding of weldments with an angle grinders, I also wear glasses. I hate the normal face shields since they are always sliding off when I bend over so I bought a full face paintball mask. They work great to keep stuff out of your face when grinding or in this case cutting. They make a mask just like it for the job but they are ~$100 at the welding store and are rated the same by ANSI.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-Elite-P...733?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

 

Incidentally, for cutting fiberglass, I'd use a diamond blade on an angle grinder. LOTS of glass dust though. Respirator is mandatory as well as a good face shield. Safety glasses are not enough when your face is getting showered with fiberglass.

I actually have a few fiberglass spun tanks from water softeners. They're rated at 200 PSI so I use them as an extra reservoir for my air compressor. Those times when I'm blowing out sprinklers for the winter it comes in handy because my 4 gallon compressor isn't enough to blow down the sprinklers. Three tanks actually. Had to use some electrical ABS conduit fittings to get down to a usable size. Then standard gas pipe for air fittings.

Actually, I mentioned my smog pump. I'm resisting the urge to post a new thread regarding PWM and motor speed control. I know the basics on how to do it. I have an old light dimmer from my wife's Celica (she wrecked). It's PWM. But I am confident it can't handle the power. So I'm planning on using a power MOSFET to handle the speed control for the smog pump motor. I have yet to mess with it. I only know the pump works. It's actually a lot like a vacuum pump, only its output is pumped into the exhaust manifold. But we'll get there this fall.

I think that the main difference is that the emissions air pump utilizes a centrifugal separator, the notches in the back side of the drive pulley, to keep stuff out, and so it lacks any inlet connection. And at one time they were able to be redirected to inflate jeep tires. I think that they were capable of 30PSI., no idea about the flow rate though.

 

The smog pump on my Toyota Taco(ma) is electric. So is the one I pulled from the BMW in the junk yard. On full power it blows some serious air through (guessing) about a 7/8 inch opening. It has about a 1 inch inlet opening as well. I'd definitely want to throttle it back when giving oxygen (ambient air) to a fireplace fire: or to heat exchanger tubes within a fireplace. Great thing about it is if there's a power failure in the winter I still have the fireplace. The smog pump is 12 volt driven and I have a couple spare 12 volt batteries in the garage that came out of wrecked cars. One is currently held at 13.6 volts and plays a car radio. The other one - I pull it down from time to time and boost the charge on it just to keep it fresh should I ever have need for 12 volts. Thinking about it - I should grab some 12 volt LED car tail lamps for ambient lighting should power go out and I'm left in the dark. Oh, wait a minute, I'm always in the dark.

Don't know if I mentioned it - I have the dash light dimmer circuit out of a Celica. It's a PWM module. Planning (in my mind) to use that to drive an N type MOSFET to control the speed of the motor. Later this year I'll dink with it and see if I can get it to do what I want. The FET I have is a pretty robust FET. Out of a motor controller from a hot tub. If I recall the data sheet it said it was good for 600 volts. It will be interesting to see if it will work on 12 volts.

 

The smog pump on my Toyota Taco(ma) is electric. So is the one I pulled from the BMW in the junk yard. On full power it blows some serious air through (guessing) about a 7/8 inch opening. It has about a 1 inch inlet opening as well. I'd definitely want to throttle it back when giving oxygen (ambient air) to a fireplace fire: or to heat exchanger tubes within a fireplace. Great thing about it is if there's a power failure in the winter I still have the fireplace. The smog pump is 12 volt driven and I have a couple spare 12 volt batteries in the garage that came out of wrecked cars. One is currently held at 13.6 volts and plays a car radio. The other one - I pull it down from time to time and boost the charge on it just to keep it fresh should I ever have need for 12 volts. Thinking about it - I should grab some 12 volt LED car tail lamps for ambient lighting should power go out and I'm left in the dark. Oh, wait a minute, I'm always in the dark.

Don't know if I mentioned it - I have the dash light dimmer circuit out of a Celica. It's a PWM module. Planning (in my mind) to use that to drive an N type MOSFET to control the speed of the motor. Later this year I'll dink with it and see if I can get it to do what I want. The FET I have is a pretty robust FET. Out of a motor controller from a hot tub. If I recall the data sheet it said it was good for 600 volts. It will be interesting to see if it will work on 12 volts.

OK, your pumps are quite different. I was talking about the ones from the seventies Mopar vehicles. I guess thyt things have changed a bit.

 

Here's a screenshot from a YouTube video.

 

How about this one @shortbus: Personal safety bucket

 

Hello,

That makes me think of the maldivian arc welder:
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/build-a-transformer-need-help.23978/#post-146112

Bertus

 

After cleaning tons of dust off the motor I found it's a Johnson Universal motor, number U-9820. Best I can find is U-9835 and U-9840. The data sheet for the 35 is interesting but it says nothing about a center tapped winding. Oh well. Anyway, thanks for all the help.

Where would I be able to purchase a Johnson U-9840 motor