Unable to replace the pot of a DC motor speed control by a Hall sensor

BobTPH

Joined Jun 5, 2013
11,621
The throttle says 24-72V. What voltage are you supplying it? If you are connecting it as the pot was, that is likely 5V.
 

Thread Starter

Altair2

Joined Aug 9, 2013
24
The description is wrong, what they mean is that the throttle can be used on an e-bike that has a battery typically between 24-72V, which has absolutely nothing to do with the actual applied working voltage of the throttle, about 4.8 to 5.2V, which corresponds to what most Hall devices require to operate.
 

BobTPH

Joined Jun 5, 2013
11,621
The description is wrong, what they mean is that the throttle can be used on an e-bike that has a battery typically between 24-72V, which has absolutely nothing to do with the actual applied working voltage of the throttle, about 4.8 to 5.2V, which corresponds to what most Hall devices require to operate.
Well, the evidence that is wrong is that it is not working. Dies the manufacturer / seller state this just your assumption.

Previously you said this:

they need a way to generate the 5.2V supply off the 90V (max) input, so they must have a linear regulator in there
If your 5.2 V is being fed into a 5V regulator, it is not likely to work.
 

Alec_t

Joined Sep 17, 2013
15,150
they need a way to generate the 5.2V supply off the 90V (max) input, so they must have a linear regulator in there, as there aren't any inductors on that board for a switching power supply.
Perhaps D1 (marked as a zener) is a 5V zener. If the pot is 10k it would only draw 1/2 mA so a zener could easily provide that without the need for a more complex regulator. It is unlikely the IC control input needs much current.

Edit:
The terminations of D1 look burnt, and their soldered joints are suspect.
 
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BobTPH

Joined Jun 5, 2013
11,621
Perhaps D1 (marked as a zener) is a 5V zener. If the pot is 10k it would only draw 1/2 mA so a zener could easily provide that without the need for a more complex regulator. It is unlikely the IC control input needs much current.

Edit:
The terminations of D1 look burnt, and their soldered joints are suspect.
Where is the picture and schematic you are referring to?
 

Thread Starter

Altair2

Joined Aug 9, 2013
24
Perhaps D1 (marked as a zener) is a 5V zener. If the pot is 10k it would only draw 1/2 mA so a zener could easily provide that without the need for a more complex regulator. It is unlikely the IC control input needs much current.

Edit:
The terminations of D1 look burnt, and their soldered joints are suspect.
Yes indeed you're right, pot is 10K so no need for a regulator. If the chip takes <2mA, we're still below ¼W dissipation.
D1 looks fine from up close. And the control chip has no markings whatsoever.

@BobTPH The pic is in post #1
 

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Futurist

Joined Apr 8, 2025
941
I'm trying to replace the potentiometer of a PWM speed control, by a thumb throttle that is based on a Hall sensor, as practically all thumb throttles do. It's easier to actuate than turning a pot.
But the "thumb throttle" (from what I just read) is not electrically equivalent to a potentiometer, so you can't just swap on for the other.
 

Thread Starter

Altair2

Joined Aug 9, 2013
24
I just cleaned it with alcohol, it was flux residue. The solder is a little frosty there, but still a good joint.
 

Alec_t

Joined Sep 17, 2013
15,150
1) How much current does the Hall device draw when disconnected from the controller?
2) What supply voltage are you using for test purposes?
 

Thread Starter

Altair2

Joined Aug 9, 2013
24
I'm supplying the board with 60V, as my project will run on 52V lithium batteries. The board can take up to 90V.
Thanks to you, I found the problem! While testing the running current of the Hall device from the speed controller, I noticed that I didn't have the full excursion of output voltage that I had previously measured when i tested it from a separate supply of 5.2V. In the circuit, it pulls down the 5V line to 3.4V, drawing 3.4mA while doing this, and that is the reason that the board doesn't work.
All along this thread, I was certain that I had checked the Hall on the board's supply, after having tested it on a separate supply, but obviously I didn't. Actually, the Hall still works on 3.4V, with limited output range, but the chip doesn't.
I'm sorry for having made you all loose time on this thread, this is a humbling experience. My 72years old mind is certainly not as awake as I thought it was. Thanks for all your contributions!
 

Alec_t

Joined Sep 17, 2013
15,150
So, the Hall device behaves more like a 1k pot than a 10k one and the 5V supply can't provide much current. I guess you'll be building your own, more robust, 5V regulator? Or get one like this?
 
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MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
28,113
Previously, I have observed that checking voltages after making changes in a system will reveal unintended changes in some unexpected locations.
THAT is the reason for looking at the whole circuit instead of just guessing as to what it is and how it works.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,776
As per my post in #2, that board is quite small that reverse-engineering it should be quite trivial!
That would solve any mystery as to what it accepts! ??
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
28,113
The reality is that there is more to creating a feedback control system than just replacing the setpoint portion with a feedback signal. THAT ONLY WORKS in block diagram systems. In the realworld it is not quite that simple.
 
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