If it's that difficult for you to connect one transformer, one thermostat switch, and one relay, you shouldn't be playing with electricity. Buy the baseboard heater thermostat with a baseboard heater wrapped around it and quit trying to see if you can die in a house fire.

Saw that coming a million miles away. I'm 33, and I'm a big boy. I came here to learn, not to be talked to like a child.

You simply can't run away from your problems, just because you don't understand something, or have a bad experience with something.

Geesh.. Could you imagine if everyone did that.. Just took the easy way out?
Nope.. The moons too far away, too cold, and there's no oxygen in space, it's a bad idea guys, let's not send a man to the moon.

I think we would be a pretty pathetic race if everyone did that.

My problem is that I simply don't understand the relay, even when I look at the data sheet.

Here's the relay data sheet.. I don't understand it. I don't see anything about the contacts, or which contact does what.
655-K10P-11AT1-24




Is this the configuration? I don't understand it.

 

It looks like a standard no/nc relay, although it is two basicily relays controled by one input.
with no power to A and B you get; 1 and 5 are NC, 3 and 5 are NO, 2 and 6 are NC, 4 and 6 are NO
adding power to the A and B you will get; 1 and 5 are now NO, 3 and 5 are now NC, 2 and 6 will be NO, 4 and 6 will be NC

 

It looks like a standard no/nc relay, although it is two basicily relays controled by one input.

So.. Like this..?

 

Looks like you're missing a contact on the relay. There should be a common connection on the contacts side, which should be wired to the 120VAC main line.

Is this better?




Mouser Electronics 655-K10P-11AT1-24

 

Power to the coil would connect 4 and 6. so i believe the relay is setup as you want. i didnt look at the rest of your circuit.

 

Geesh.. Could you imagine if everyone did that.. Just took the easy way out?

Yeah. Then I'd be employed.
Seriously, I made my living off people that were too timid to look or too invested in their self image of being either helpless or "above" that sort of thing. What I want you to do is start with something that can't sneak up in the night and kill you. Failing at that, all I can say is be careful!!!
You are literally betting your life on this job.

 

there are probably more installed and operating line voltage style thermostats on electrical equipment then all the Honeywell round thermostats ever made.

I thought about that. I've seen the round Honeywell thermostats for what seems like 50 or 60 years, but for every house with a central furnace or air conditioner, there are probably three space heaters in existence. It just seems to me like there are more wall thermostats because that's my day job and I can remember repairing exactly one baseboard heater. It's a perception problem. I suffer from too much specialization.

 

Is there a device that will turn off AC Power when the set tempature is met?

thermal switches?

 

thermal switches?

Yeah, thermal switches. I wanted to make my own, using a thermostat, relay, and transformer. So I looked up the parts on Mouser Electronics, and the circuit diagram below is what I've learned so far. and everyone here has been pretty helpful at helping me understand how it's wired. Knowing how it works is pretty easy, at least to me..


Mouser Electronics 24vac to 120vac Relay : 655-K10P-11AT1-24
Mouser Electronics 120vac to 24vac Transformer : 553-F46X
Thermostat will be digital, or analog. I prefer if it were a fancy digital one.

If you look back at the post, you'll see products that are already built. There's also a SPC-1000 that is almost like childs play when hooking it up, but it only handles about 1000 watts from what I gathered from the specifications. I need 1500 to 2000+ Watts, 15A 120vac

 

why don't you use a simple line-switched wall thermostat, they are good for 3000W.
see posts 11 and 18.

 

why don't you use a simple line-switched wall thermostat, they are good for 3000W.
see posts 11 and 18.

Cool, but all I see mentioned on here, and when I go to search for them, is that they are for 240vac, not 120vac, which is what I'm working with.

 

Like this..?

I don't know. It seems quite comex.

A simple metal can thermal switch could cost you a few dollars and work effectively.

 

Cool, but all I see mentioned on here, and when I go to search for them, is that they are for 240vac, not 120vac, which is what I'm working with.

That's exactly what you need.

All they are is a two pole switch that is controlled by heat. They could care less about what voltage you are using as long as you are under their maximum rated amps.

For added redundancy you could tie both lines of the thermostat together and have twice the working current limit.

 

Complications, complications... Every domestic water heater does it with its plain thermostat shutting off easily 4KW , available at the hardware store or from a defunct water heater, and will work 230 or 115V.

 

Regarding your post # 31; The maximum recommend operating voltage rating is 240, not the only functioning voltage. The manufacturer has a legal obligation to designate such a value.

The bimetallic line voltage thermostat is a "passive" device, so to speak. It is thermo-mechanical. It operates on very simple thermal expansion of matter. Wiki it, Google it. Go to a hardware store or a home Depot type store and poke around and ask around.

Now I fully realize that this "online forum" is all about words, lotsa words. Why go to some old hardware store when you've got all these words flowing?

Because the people who know the answers are still the people that do stuff with their hands and tools and stuff, and I don't mean peck at keyboards. GET OUT THERE AND DO SOMETHING. With any luck you'll break something, scatter some sparks, maybe even get shocked! WOW! Now to me, that sounds like a learning experience, and FUN both!

 

Just wondering.. Is there a device that will turn off AC Power when the set tempature is met?

I know there's a thing called a thermostat, but does a thermostat control AC Power?

I found something on Amazon, it's called, Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat.

I'm pretty sure it doesn't handle 1.5kW though.

I'm not sure the power rating, but I use this to shut down some electrical equipment when temps get too high:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00368D6JA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage#Ask

 

This is what I mean...
View attachment 100764

The Hot is usually always the one to be switched, never the neutral.

 

How would I measure the voltage coming from W, for heat on my DMM?

 

Well if you are supplying 24 VAC to the R input connection point the W (white) lead out connection should give you the 24 VAC back when there is call for heat and nothing when it's off.

For the most part standard low voltage thermostats are also passive devices as in they don't supply any power to anything . All thy are is a conglomeration of switches that turn on or off at the set temperature point or selected function which means that they will work just fine with lower voltage DC signals as well.

 

Your thermostat is just a fancy set of temperature controlled switches that take 24 VAC in and send it out in one or more possible circuit connections so think it through.