Hello,

As #12 said, try to measure the block, wich is most likely a fuse, wich normaly should have almost no resistance:

Put your meter pins on the indicated tabs.

(be sure you have pulled the plug from the mains before you start).

Bertus

 

Yea I am just going to disconnect it from the board.

 

Hello,

As #12 said, try to measure the block, wich is most likely a fuse, wich normaly should have almost no resistance:

Put your meter pins on the indicated tabs.

(be sure you have pulled the plug from the mains before you start).

Bertus

Should I disconnect from the red cables from the board or no?

 

Should I disconnect from the red cables from the board or no?

#12 is correct; if you are checking the fuse, there is no need to disconnect anything. Just measure the resistance across the points that Bertus identified. If the resistance is almost zero ohms, the fuse is okay.

 

So there is no continuity. When I put the probes on the two locations, the resistance stays at 1.

 

If you used the ohm meter correctly, the word here is, "Bingo". You found the faulty part.

Now touch the probes to each other and see if the reading suddenly changes toward zero instead of "1 means over range".

 

If you used the ohm meter correctly, the word here is, "Bingo". You found the faulty part.

When I touch the top of the multimeter probe together, when it is on continuity, the reading goes to 0, it jumps around alot actually so I don't know if there is a problem with my meter but it usually goes to 0. When I put it there it does not go to 0, it stays 1. I am putting the probes in the wholes. I don't need to have anything connected to any power right? The multimeter sends the required current for testing isn't it?

 

Bingo

Next job: Find a replacement part.

 

Bingo

Next job: Find a replacement part.

I had a question about multimeters. When I touch the probes together to check continuity, it jumps around alot. I went and I bought a new one, thinking this one is bad, the other one is even worse. The old one goes to 0 most of the time and eventually. I am looking for parts on the website of a company called AuOne

 

Where can I find the part from? I looked alot. Is there any site you guys know?

 

I'm guessing your meter is on the lower end <$50 and probably does not have a zero function. The more expensive meters have a feature that allows you to zero the meter when you touch the leads together. If you don't have that feature, then you cross the leads and whatever you read mist be subtracted from all your readings.
As for the fuse AuOne is a Chinese company and you can find them if you do a Google search. You need to know what size fuse it is that you need. Hopefully somewhere on the fuse there is a rating, like 2A or 10A or something like that. Otherwise you need to know the circuits rated amperage which will be hard to find.
Lastly, you need to know what caused the fuse to blow and that is going to be more difficult if you are not familiar with electronics and meters.

 

I'm guessing your meter is on the lower end <$50 and probably does not have a zero function. The more expensive meters have a feature that allows you to zero the meter when you touch the leads together. If you don't have that feature, then you cross the leads and whatever you read mist be subtracted from all your readings.
As for the fuse AuOne is a Chinese company and you can find them if you do a Google search. You need to know what size fuse it is that you need. Hopefully somewhere on the fuse there is a rating, like 2A or 10A or something like that. Otherwise you need to know the circuits rated amperage which will be hard to find.
Lastly, you need to know what caused the fuse to blow and that is going to be more difficult if you are not familiar with electronics and meters.

The only thing I see on the fuse is a number 55. From what you are saying, it seems if I were to change the Fuse, it would blow again. Is that true?

 

The only thing I see on the fuse is a number 55. From what you are saying, it seems if I were to change the Fuse, it would blow again. Is that true?

Here lies the real difficulty. IF you can find the part, you will have to try to connect it as well as the original part because fuses are sensitive to heat...it makes them pop when they normally wouldn't. A crusty, loose, or undersized connection causes heat. How are you with brass rivets in mica? Do you have that size? Can you drill out the old rivet and not shred the backing plate?

Then you need to find out WHY it popped. Personally, I quit buying deep fryers because the manufacturer couldn't get the fuse right and it was welded to the thermostat. Pop a 50 cent fuse and buy a new thermostat for most of $20. Is it the fan motor failed or running slow? Is it just dust in the air intake? Is it a horribly cheap design? Is the fuse improperly sized? Did somebody slide the machine against the wall and block the air intake?

These are things we can't measure with a volt-ohm meter.

 

This seems way out of my league, for now. I think I will just leave it. I am not even able to find the part on the AuOne website anyway.

 

And this is why repairing a cheap toy is discouraged. This one doesn't even have a microprocessor chip in it and the parts are so well disguised and hidden that you still can't fix it.

 

+1 on what #12 is telling you. Some days the dragon wins.

 

Thank you for all your help.