I am trying the troubleshoot an electric scooter. I have eliminated the speed throttle but now need to determine if the issue is the 3P motor or the motor-controller. Is there a way to test the motor for basic functionality bypassing the controller. It is a 36V controller and the moter has the three-phase wires, Green, Blue, and Yellow. There are also 5 smaller gague wires that are for the Hall Sensor. Can I use the 36V from the power sourse (which is OK, by the way) to power the motor connecting it directly to two of the 3P wires??

Thanks

 

If you have a 'scope, see if it generates 3ph AC when you rotate the shaft.
Also short the three leads and see if it provides resistance to spinning/turning.
But most likely the problem is usually in the controller.

 

If you have a 'scope, see if it generates 3ph AC when you rotate the shaft.
Also short the three leads and see if it provides resistance to spinning/turning.
But most likely the problem is usually in the controller.

Yes, I agree that the issue is likely the controller, I just want to be sure as this is a neighbors e-scooter and I do not want to buy parts that I do not need. don't have a scope, but will try the shorted leads method.

Thanks for the tips.

 

Q: The Controller is rate at 450W. What are the cons of getting one at 400W or 500W? My brain says that the 350W unit might fail quicker while the 500W will have headroom.

 

They are often set up to match motor power.
If anything, the 500w would be the first choice out of the two.

 

They are often set up to match motor power.
If anything, the 500w would be the first choice out of the two.

T H A N K S !!

 

Does the TS have a multimeter, either digital or analog? Measuring winding resistance and checking the position sensors will reveal if it is the motor or the driver. It might also be a broken or damaged wire.

 

Most of the ones i have checked, it has been either the controller, or quite common, a bad (corroded) connector on the motor 3ph leads.

 

Autumn I got a splash of saltwater to my scooter thus now I must go to work by car. Burned everything, one cell in the battery, whole driver/controller/booster module, computer. Only got good, 9/10 of battery and motor with frame. Repair costs more than to buy a new. Now until the springtime I have a plan to substitute all those SUPER-computerIized-overshhot with most simplest computer fan IC what always lead the motor to maximum rpm and all the driving in the regime of start/stop. Only the uncertainty how to organize the brakes, as it have only electric. Probably one relay what makes a dis-switch from feed and switch all motor wires together??